nelsonian101

Would I need a surge tank if I just went with FG F6 injectors? I've been doing lots of track days with the stock set up on no less than quarter to half tank. If the tune I get doesn't go too lean (as I'm not concerned with extracting every last kW from a tune), why would I need a surge tank?

If you shop around tune and flash box will be anywhere from $1100 to $1500. Cat $300, injectors around $350. It can be done for under $2000 for sure. Take into account the fitting fee for the cat (which may have to be done at a seperate exhaust place) and you may be a bit over.

All my mods have been handling related for my '08 FGXR6T, as it is used on the circuit around 4 times per year. Custom valved Koni reds, Lovell springs, custom made sway bars, Brembos, better tyres (Eagle F1's and R888's etc) So far, the only engine mods have been oil cooler and bigger FPV Tranny cooler for ZF6, plus XR8 intake and K&N panel filter. The car is a daily driver too and I don't want to deal with any rough idling or potentially stalling if I fit bigger injectors and tune. It's always run on 98 fuel. My question is do bigger, say 60lb injectors feel any different from stock at low rpm road speeds or would FPV F6 (42 or 48lb? size?) injectors better suit my application? Eventually I will be fitting a bigger intercooler and 5" 100cpi cat, but that will be it. Not interested in after market exhausts or battery relocations. Would like close to 300rwkw, but no more. Could this be achieved safely with F6 injectors, stock FG turbo and my other mods on a safe lowish boost? Also will these bigger injectors make it safer on the track (I.e. on boost out of high speed corners with half tank) or should I opt for a slightly richer tune. (Don't want to go to the expense/hassle of surge tanks and bigger fuel pumps) Thanks.

The team seems to be coming along nicely. Superlap Australia – Time Attack » Interview with Fernandez Motorsport

Was in the same position as you a few years back, so will offer some advice. Don't get too hung up on mods, and enjoy it!! It all depends on what your budget allows. If you plan to keep the car for a few more years, it's a good idea to do the mods bit by bit as you need to, as your times come down. It's always exciting and rewarding to do this, and gives great satisfaction. As a bare minimum: - Tyres: Which you have covered with the KU36's but be aware that these pressures will sky rocket to over 50psi after a few sessions, depending on ambient and track temp obviously. Start with about 35psi and let air out as soon as you come in. Aim for mid to high 30's hot. (User ERKO experienced this at Wakefield with KU36's) - Change your brake fluid ASAP!!. Super DOT 4 is fine for your first track day, but DOT 5.1 is preferred. Anything over that is overkill for a road car as 6 attracts too much water on the road. Look at Race brakes sponsor. - Brakes (cheap mods). What brake pads did you order? Fronts are the most important and anything like Ferodo DS2500 or EBC Reds will be fine for a first track day. If budget allows, get some slotted DBA4000 front rotors too. - Brakes (next stage). Depending on the track, I guarantee, first thing you'll whinge about in the pits (like we all do ... ), is your lack of brakes! When the stock calipers no longer cut it and with multiple 1800kg stops from 150-200km/h, they really don't......look into front 4pot Brembos with 355mm rotors and a second set of 18" FPV wheels to clear them (sometimes hard to find) Vented 328mm rears are also a good upgrade too later. If your BF has the solid rear discs, be vary careful not to put your handbrake on in the pits when you stop s the rear discs will warp badly. With your KU36's upfront, you'll find intitially that braking will improve due to the stickier compound but this will boil your stock fluid quicker, especially if it's old. Diff oil is cheap and extremely easy to change. I would definitely recommend this. I also recommend an oil cooler. I use an FPV one. I think Rapid Systems sell one too. Stock radiator is fine depending on where you live. I think user ROSIE has improved the radiator though. I think PWR have one, but it's not necessary at this stage. Just make sure you do a cool down lap. With regard to wheel alignment, more negative camber at the front is definately recommended. 1.5-2 deg is a good compromise. Some guys use up to 4deg neg front running slicks. Be aware this will chew your inner edges on the road. Just rotate front to rear with the KU36's. What suspension are you running? Body roll is hideous on the stock set up. Later down the track, look at bigger sway bars.

I have used them at Marulan and Wakefield park. They are a good bang for your buck tyre but not in the same league as the Toyo R888's I am currently using. They are a sticky road tyre and not really a full R-rated semi slick. They squeal a bit which help determine the adhesion limits. Mid corner grip is good. I use them for rears on the road. Tirerack did a comprehensive test of them here: Testing the New Extremes of Extreme Performance Summer Tires FRom tirerack: Kumho Ecsta XS (Extreme Performance Summer 225/45R17) What We Liked: Excellent ultimate dry cornering traction What We'd Improve: Wet traction and steering precision Conclusion: The perfect tire for drivers wanting ultimate dry cornering grip Latest Test Rank: 4th

Superlap Australia – Time Attack » Fernandez Superfalcon livery revealed I can't wait to see this out there! Power done on the semi's (not slicks) will be a problem I reckon Superlap Australia – Time Attack » Fernandez XR6 Turbo on track for WTAC

Are they 245/35 19"? If so, then why not order 4 RE11's from tirerack? 2 rears for now, keep 2 in storage for later. I'm onto my second set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics ordered from tirerack. Can't fault them for street work. In 18's they were only $190USD ea. With this exchange rate, a bit over $200ea AU. Retail for $600 plus here. shipping was only $200usd. Even with import duty and gst, still close to half price. Maybe consider a set of 18" wheels with 9.5" rears. Lots of tyre option then.

Have you tried a better compound of street semi on the back instead in 245? Look at Kumho KU36, Federal 595RSR, Toyo T1R in Australia. Or buy direct from tirerack.com in the USA like I do. With the Aussie $ so strong, it is cheaper anyway. Look at the Bridgestone RE11, Dunlop Direzza's, Yoko ADS08's. These in 245 with stick a lot better than crap tyres in 265. Tire Search Results

My advice for rears/bang for buck are Kumho KU36, Falken Avenis RT615.

Find some second hand 18" FPV wheels off egay and some 2nd hand 4 pot front Brembos. You'll never look back.

I still use them. 18" x 8.5" Black Enkei RPF1's for the track and 18" BA Typhoon rims for the street. Both needed to clear my Brembos on the FG. It's all about function and performance for me.

The car felt fantastic but it was getting too hot (30deg day) after a few laps that I was forced to back off. The car is easily capable of 1.12's (even with me driving!, possibly 1.10-11's with a fast driver) but on the day I only managed 1.13's and that was in the last session. I felt I was stuffing around too much in the morning changing tyres etc and my first warm up session wasn't until after 11am when I finally got out there. By that time temp was already high 20's. Very keen to try again for the 1.12's but it will be late May/June at the earliest. The car definitely felt really stable going into turn 1. No braking. Just flick it right after the pit wall ends and it tracked really well. A mate took a vid here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5156335/18032010136.mp4 Next time I will be trying a stiffer sway bar setting on the rear as it's the only adjustment I have. Was getting a bit of understeer at the top of the hill but I think it's because I'm going in too hot and out too slow I.e. not getting on the power early enough which is tough with the turbo lag and auto box. I'm still leaving the ZF auto do it's own thing in performance mode. It's just about perfect but is sometimes downchanging to 2nd (and holding 2nd) for the right hander going down the hill which is unsettling the car. I will try manual shifting next time, but doubt it will be any quicker for lap times.

I'll still be there this Thursday and looking forward to it! Have also booked a drive day at Eastern Creek for April 7th.

I want to be able to quickly change my wheels at the track but need some help. Where "Exactly" is the best place to mount the trolley jack head at the front, then rear when jacking the car up? It (obviously) has a different fitting to the jack that came with the car (for use on the side rails according to handbook) Front (I tried this and seemed ok): Middle of cross member? On my lowered FG, I had to drive up on 2 pieces of wood (under front tyres) first to get the trolley jack under the car. Then carefully raised it against the front cross member (with some rubber innertube inbetween). My track stands slid in nicely to the 2 front side rails (where standard jack fits), so I decided not to use the chassis rails for the track stands. Rear: Where exactly do I lift from on the FGXR6T with LSD diff? Just behind the diff, there seem to be a rail but don't won't to use it unless it is safe?

I have Lovells springs with custom valved Koni red shock absorbers (matching the spring rate) on my FG. First test at the track will be Wakefield next Thursday but so far they incredible and the best option I could find for the car.

Spray the centres black and they will look a lot better.

I would recommend buying some 2nd hand 18" FPV wheels that clear Brembo's, especially if you are looking at upgrading brakes in the future, and save your money for good R rated tyres. Tyres to consider (not R rated though) are Falken Azenis RT615, Kumho KU36 or Federal 595 RSR. If you want something even stickier but a lot more expensive look at Toyo R888 or Bridgestone RE55. I don't think the Yoko A048 are load rated for Falcons but I think they have a new range out anyway. For rims: If you have the $, Enkei have a new lightweight track rim out called the PF01 which is very light: Enkei Wheels : 2009 Race & Tuning Series The RPF01 and RP03 should also clear Brembos too but are a few hundred grams heavier. Cheapest option and if you are very lucky is finding some Porsche Cup front slicks. These will probably have had too many heat cycles but will still probably stick better than anything else.

Last time I was there I had some Kumho KU36 tyres on the front (only used twice at Marulan: see here http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/First-Track-Day-At-Marulan-t56663.html )and some old Falken Azenis RT215's on the rear. Sticky Street tyres but not in the same R rated class as the Toyo R888's I'm keen to try out next time. The Kumho's were pushing quite badly through the uphill right hander after the fish hook and I preferred the Falkens (pity you can't get the 215's anymore). Ran both around mid 30's psi hot. The car had the stock monotube shocks last time but lowered King Springs. Gave a bit of body roll and bounced quite badly unsettling the car in the braking area before that first left hander at the top of the hill. This time will have sway bars, springs and revalved Koni's but as a firm/street friendly set up as 99% of my driving is on the road and I couldn't justify Coilovers for my requirements ( although I did a lot of research.) I also found the ZF better than expected and also ended up just leaving it in Sports mode for the day. It kicked down to 2nd a few times unexpectantly unsettling the car though, and I might try manually changing this time. I find 2nd is quite low and can't be selected too early while braking hard. Only used 2nd coming onto the straight and out of the fish hook. I was running consistent 1.14's until the last session when I finally had the guts to turn the DSC off and instantly I noticed I could get power down a fraction earlier coming onto the straight. Times were recorded using a fantastic program called Race Chrono which can be downloaded to most GPS phones. RaceChrono - The GPS Lap Timer Most Aussie tracks are supported. RaceChrono - Track library I use a seperate GPS unit for accuracy (5hz as opposed to 1Hz) connected to my phone via Blue tooth which logs 5 times/second, 5 X quicker than gps phones.

I know there is a lot of time to pick up through turn 1. I reckon the braking power alone of the Toyo's will give me that extra confidence to go a bit quicker through the kink. The power in mine is still stock (apart from K&N air filter and XR8 intake) but it would be great to have the torque to pull 3rd out of the fish hook. How do you find the ZF around there?

Speed of the Streets Day, either 18th or 25th of March? This will be my 3rd time there in the FGXR6T. 1st time it was raining, with a best time of 1min 22. 2nd time got a high 1min 13 when I finally switched the DSC off. This time have ditched the stock shock absorbers for some Koni's and have some new Toyo R888's that I'm itching to try out. Have upgraded the brake fluid from SUPER DOT 4 to 5.1, and will have new ZF fluid in, new diff oil and engine oil of course. Brakes upgraded to front 4 pot Brembos which are enough for 5 or so laps. Hopefully this vid below will motivate you to give the track a go!

Has anyone tried these out at the track?

A few things to look out for. I have some BA Typhhon rims to clear Brembos on my FGXR6T, and I'm pretty sure they are only 8" wide not 8.5-9" Be careful with the different offsets front and rear. 245 wide is the max (for traction and legally) you can go on these rims. The vehicle's weight doesn't affect how wide you can go but the load rating of the tyres does. Pretty sure the 265's have a 93 load rating which is ok despite the low 35 profile but the 235's have a 91 load rating (too low for these cars). Were you lookig at 4 X 265 tyres or just the rears? Depending on offset, not sure you can squeeze a 265 on the front. The A048 is a good track tyre, (but not as good as the Bridgestone RE55 or Toyo R888 in my opinion), but the stiff sidewalls wont be as good as a dedicated drags tyre like MT radial. Hope this helps.

Don't skimp on high quality/sticky front tyres too. They are the most overlooked aspect of improving braking performance. Also (if applicable) check with your insurance company re the brand of brakes you decide upon and if you are still covered in an accident. In my experience, with only the 4 piston Brembos 355mm at the front and 328mm twin ventilated rear rotors at rear, I found them more than adequate for the street and for up to 4 laps at the track before they went off(but with SBS dual Carbon Race pads too). I find the quality of fluid and front semi slick still makes a bigger difference in braking. It's no use having huge diameter rotors or even 8 piston Calipers, if you can't transfer these huge deceleration forces to the road through the tyres. If the ABS is already chirping the tyres with the smaller brakes, then the tyres are the weakest link in the chain. Bigger and bigger brakes won't make any difference. With regard to pedal feel, top quality fluid will help too.

I picked up 2 old 235/40 18" Toyo R888's semi slicks 2nd hand and have just realized the load rating is only 91. The load rating on the 245's is 93 and stupidly I assumed it was the same, so didn't double check. Am I taking a risk using these on the circuit on a FGXR6T as fronts only? (not for road use)