nelsonian101

Can't help with the XR club but I do a few track days in my FGXR6T each year. Track days are great fun. Is this your first at the circuit other than the drag strip? If it is, you'll quickly find out that tyres, brakes and suspension are a lot more important than rwkw, and times down the quarter (although impressive) mean very little. Was in the same position as you a few years back, but modded the opposite way. Chassis first, then power for me. Don't get too hung up on mods though, and enjoy it!! It all depends on what your budget allows to get the car handling. If you plan to keep the car for a few more years, it's a good idea to do the handling mods bit by bit as you need to, as your times come down. It's always exciting and rewarding to do this, and gives great satisfaction. As a bare minimum: - Tyres: What type of new tyres do you have exactly? KU36's are a cost effective start (if using same rims street and track) but be aware that these pressures will sky rocket to over 50psi after a few sessions, depending on ambient and track temp obviously. Start with about 35psi and let air out as soon as you come in. Aim for mid to high 30's hot. - Change your brake fluid ASAP!!. Super DOT 4 is fine for your first track day, but DOT 5.1 is preferred. Anything over that is overkill for a road car as 6 attracts too much water on the road. Look at Race brakes sponsor. - Brakes (cheap mods). You must do something to your fronts as a minimum. Fronts are the most important and pads like Ferodo DS2500 or EBC Reds will be fine for a first track day. If budget allows, get some slotted DBA4000 front rotors too. - Brakes (next stage). Depending on the track, I guarantee, first thing you'll whinge about in the pits (like we all do ... ), is your lack of brakes! When the stock calipers no longer cut it and with multiple 1800kg stops from 200km/h at the Island, they really don't......look into front 4pot Brembos with 355mm rotors and a second set of 18" FPV wheels to clear them (sometimes hard to find) Vented 328mm rears are also a good upgrade too later. If your car has the solid rear discs, be vary careful not to put your handbrake on in the pits when you stop s the rear discs will warp badly. With stickier tyres, you'll find intitially that braking will improve due to the stickier compound but this will boil your stock fluid quicker, especially if it's old. Diff oil is cheap and extremely easy to change. I would definitely recommend this. I also recommend an oil cooler. I use an FPV one. I think Rapid Systems sell one too. Stock radiator is fine depending on where you live. I think user ROSIE has improved the radiator though. I think PWR have one, but it's not necessary at this stage. Just make sure you do a cool down lap. With regard to wheel alignment, more negative camber at the front is definately recommended. 1.5-2 deg is a good compromise. Some guys use up to 4deg neg front running slicks. Be aware this will chew your inner edges on the road. Just rotate more often. What suspension are you running? Body roll is hideous on the stock set up. Later down the track, look at bigger sway bars.

Was this 2010 stock ford cooler of similar design to any of the aftermarket coolers currently available for the FG?

Hey Rosie, When are you next out at Eastern Creek? I'll be there in the silver FG on August 4th hoping to finally break that 2min barrier! Got a 2min.01 last time on the stock tune 235rwkw. This time I'll be there with 276rwkw. Crossed fingers!

Had the plugs replaced with some cheaper Ford ones and problem gone.

Any recommendations in Sydney for where I could buy one and get one fitted, street legal for the trip to and from the track.

I am doing more track days in my FGXR6T with stickier tyres, but am starting to hold onto the wheel too much for support in corners which isn't good. Has anyone fitted race bucket seat to the FG? Were rail mods required?

What type of wheels are they? Size and offset?

The earlier FGXR6T's like mine did not have ventilated 328mm rotors on the rear. 303mm solid disc instead but I upgraded to the Territory rears quite cheaply. Rears are single piston. Fronts are twin piston.

The plugs were changed about 10,000kms ago. Visiting the tuner later this week. Would the 100cpi 5" cat have anything to do with it?

For example, under hard acceleration in 3rd, the power is cutting in and out and loud burbles are heard out of the exhaust. This is the first time I have accelerated the car hard since the tune late last week (as it has been raining/peak hour traffic etc), so this is the first time I have really tested it, hence I don't think it is the fuel. The car has been run on 98 since new.

I recently had my car dyno tuned for the first time with the CAPA SCT flasbox. 3 tunes. Valet, Economy and 98. When running the 98 tune, under heavy acceleration the car is intermittently losing power for a fraction of a second/backfiring on and off a few times per second if this makes sense. The tyres aren't spinning/regaining grip and the diff is fine and well serviced. Car is a FGXR6T. Only engine mods are XR8 intake snorkel and K&N filter, 5" 100cpi cat and the FG alloy intercooler piping mod. Injectors are stock. It made 276rwkw on the conservative 98 tune and I will be calling the tuner tomorrow. Any ideas why it is losing power?

PM sent. Since then, we have both found out this is incorrect advice from the supplier. An adapter plug is required to fit the FGXR6T. Just hoping the length is correct!! Has anyone else had experience with fitting these Bosch EV14's part no. 0 280 158 117, or know of any tuners that have experience with them? More info below: http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/pdf/components/injection_valves/EV_6.pdf

I bought some 3/4 length Bosch EV14's off ebay $79ea (with orange stripe), but was told by my tuner they were not a straight bolt in for the FG's. I think I needed some plug adapters so am contacting the guy I bought them off. Doing some more research.

Sounds like you have traction issues. What tyres are on there now? Sportsmaxx? Is this for the street, circuit or drag strip? 285's are a massive step up in expense with rims too. My advice would be to try a different compound in the 245 rear first before going to the expense of 4 new wheels (8" fronts and 9.5" rears) too. I'd recommend (for rears only) Falken Azenis RT615, Federal 595RSR, Kumho KU36 for street. Once warm, hold the stock rwkw quite well in 2nd. Try these first. They aren't that expensive and if it's still not enough look at wider rims.

Sorry, unfortunately load rating appears too low (under 93) on the above.

Tire Search Results

Just one more question, if these Ford Racing EV14's flow at 47lb/hr, how much more is that the stock FG injectors? (Does 42lb sound right?) I know their flow rates are a bit more than BF, just not sure how much more. (or is it just dependant upon pressure)

You just send an eamil to one of the reps on the "contact us" page. Contacting Email them exactly what you want, and your shipping address where someone will be able to sign for delivery (I.e. work ) They will get back to you with a total amount plus shipping fee. in $USD I then just go to ANZ bank and get them to do an international transfer. Costs about $30 fee, but still cheaper in the long run.

4 X 245/45 18" tyres cost me about $200USD delivery to Sydney. At the time the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics were only $190usd ea!!!!...obviously more for wide 19", but I'd hate to ask what retail is on top shelf 285's in Australia!! With the exchange rate around 90c, it saved me close to $1000. Even with gst, delivery etc Retail on the F1's was around $600 ea. in Australia at the time. On the site you can't use your credit card though. I had to email one of the reps individually, go to the bank and do an international transfer. Do the sums, but in the end it was cheaper depending on the rate. I think another user here Des Flurane buys from tirerack too. PM me if you need more details.

Both the KU31 and K104 aren't bad for the price. In that price range look at the Sumitomo HTR Z III too. Many people swear by them!! Sumitomo HTR Z III Tyres Reviews Australia www.sumitomotire.com If I were you though, I'd order from tirerack in the USA. I've onto my second set of 4. Deliver in about 10 days to your door. Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric are my choice for the street. For similar cash (and with the current exchange rate), you could get something a lot higher quality like Advan Neova's or Bridgey Re11's!!!! Tire Search Results

How much were these injectors and did you buy them direct from the USA and get them fitted?

The KU37 look like a cheap, nasty tyre. I like the KU36's and have them on the back of my car and recommend them for rears. Kumho seem to use logical system for naming their recent tyre range. However, it appears based on a chronological based system rather on relative range quality. I.e. the newest tyre of the range KU37, is only named sequentially because it is newer than the KU36 (probably with excellent tread life), not because it is a higher performing tyre. Sounds like you need a rebalance and alignment though. Take the car back and get them checked.

Thanks for the info. This has got me thinking that maybe it's not just the size of the injector that may contribute any idle problems, but also the QUALITY of the the injector itself (assuming tuner is good)which leads me to a new question. In your opinion, what are the best (highest quality) injectors around 50-60lb available, for the FG irrespective of price that don't require any machining?

Do these GT500 injectors or EV14 injectors require any machining or rail work to fit an FG? Has anyone fitted them?

Superdot 4 is 100% fine for street use and will cope with emergency stops on the road easily. If you won't be doing track days with your 4 pot Brembos, it will me more than needed. I have done track days at Marulan and Wakefield with both brand new (everytime)Super Dot 4 and AP 5.1. 5.1 has never missed a beat but I don't do more than 4 or 5 hard laps at a time. I did experience some flucuations in pedal pressure/consistency at Marulan and Wakefield with Superdot 4 (at the end of the day) but it was close to a 30deg. day.