nelsonian101

So what big $$$ rubber would you recommend for this threads requirements then? You may have misread my post. When I said "However, their tread wear rating and water clearance properties are too low for this thread's requirement." I was referring to the Falken RT615's, not the FK452's. As the first post in this thread stated they required wet weather ability, I stand by my statement that the F1 Asymmetrics are a far superior tyre in every respect to the FK452's. Wet AND Dry. I've owned sets of both. I can be quite selective with my rubber too, having raced bikes for years at club and state level. With a background in Mechanical Engineering I am extremely picky, Smicky , when it comes to the specs of performance tyres. The FK452's aren't bad for the price (it's why I bought them) but even in the dry they squeal earlier and give up a lot quicker at the limit than the F1's. I completely disagree with your statement that the Goodyears are not much chop. The PS2's are a fantastic tyre in the dry, but slightly less effective in the wet than the F1's. Tirerack backs up this statement, however they still have a treadwear rating of 220 which I would not categorize as soft. Testing Max Performance Summer Tires Tuned for North American Drivers I do agree with you that the Sportsmaxx wasn't a bad all round tyre too. Better than the FK452's but not as good as the PS2's or F1's.

The centre hubs on my DBA5000 hubs are black (not gold) and a 3kg weight saving on all 4 corners is HUGE!!!!!.... considering it is unsprung weight. On the circuit they are really noticeable in combination with my Enkei RPF1's around 5kg lighter per wheel than stock. You would be surprised what a difference lighter wheels and brake rotors make, and in my opinion defintely worth the money if you demand high perfornamce components.

How did you go fitting 18 X 9's at the front with the D1R's? Would the Wolf D1R's fit? http://www.wolfwheels.co.nz/wheels/high-performance/d1r.html 18 X 9 front with 18 X 10 rear? Offsets available are 15,20,35,40.

What width wheels are you putting the 275's on? 9.5"? If so an offset around 38 to 40 will shift the wheel inwards slightly so the 275's won't rub.

PCD you want is 114.3 X 5 (bolt holes) I know 8.5" front fit in anywhere from +30 to 35. Rear 9.5" fit from +38 to 40. What wheels are you looking at (4 x 9"?) and what tyre width on the front? I am interested as I am also considering going 9" all round.

Details of that ute here: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70007

Maybe ask Matt at the Horsepower factory if you have any questions on the build. His email address is listed on page 96 of the mag with all the specs. matt@hp-f.com.au The wheels they used on the ute were 19's too. 9.5" front, 11.5" rear. Guards may have been flared to fit? The best performing tyres on this test seemed to be the new Bridgestone RE11's on the SS-V Sportswagon, but need to go 19" if you want more than 275 at the back. Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 Yokohama AD08's won this years superlap in the supersprint class. Can get them in 295/30 18. Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08

October Motor mag had a Horsepower factory tuned Super Pusuit ute set up for the track in the Hot Tuner challenge. It had 265 fronts on 9.5 rims and 305mm rears on 11.5's at the back, and a massive rear wing. 380mm front brakes too!

I have 4 pot Brembos at the front of my FGXR6T and am onto a set of slotted DBA5000's. Last set were slotted DBA4000's. They lasted 5 track days and about 60,000kms which I was happy with as the SBS race pads I use at the track are quite abrasive. Standard Brembo pads were used on the street and were fine apart from dust which doesn't worry me. The drilled and slotted rotors are more show than go in my opinion. The slots are not as long or deep as the slotted (only) rotors which help the hot gases escape more effectively under repeated, heavy braking I.e. circuit use. I would only go the 2 piece 5000's if you need to reduce the unsprung weight of the car for track use though. The alloy hub does make a difference (especially when used in combo with lightweight wheels) and ofcourse if you go through rotors as quickly as I do, when you need a new set you only have to replace the rotor itself and not the attached hub like in the 1 piece 4000's. Saves a bit of $$ long term as you mentioned.

A MASSIVE rear wing will be needed too. Any pics of the build so far?

That's correct. Just email one of the reps directly. They will give you the exact total and freight costs in USD. The only hassle is I had to pay via international money transfer at my local bank when you get their payment details as they dont take credit card.

The R1R's are great street/track tyres but with a 140 treadwear rating, they won't last long. The F1's have a treadwear rating of 240 which gives you an indication of how long they last in comparison. If you are towing, this is another case for the F1's. My 245/40's have a 97 Load rating which is very high. The 45's have a 100 load rating which is obscenely strong for what is, a low profile performance tyre.

I went through a set of FK452 fairly quickly. For the price they were ok, but seriously not in the same league all round as the F1's. The price reflects this. I recommend the RT615's for rears. The older 215's were better as a street/track tyre though. However, their tread wear rating and water clearance properties are too low for this thread's requirement.

I do 50,000kms per annum for work (currently in a FGXR6T) and have done so for the last 15 years. I've tried just about every road tyre worth trying out there. I cannot recommend the Goodyear F1's enough!! In the wet, nothing comes close. NOTHING. They have to be experienced to be believed. In the dry, they perform perfectly too. I have a 1yo daughter with another on the way and seriously man, I wouldn't drive on anything else. I'm onto my second set purchased from tirerack.com for only $190USD ea. back when the exhange rate was in the 90c range. Freight was only $200. Saved me about $1000 and I couldn't be happier. I've used the Adrenalines in the past in 17" on a Commodore, but these tyres are like chalk and cheese. You can't go wrong with the Michelins either but for wet weather performance where it really counts in an emergency, my vote goes to the F1's.

(Re: a 1min50 lap) I'm positive it can be done too; just will be a great achievement. The rear suspension set up in the turbo ute will be a crucial factor in getting effective power down off the turns. The NA v8 utes have a more progressive power delivery post apex and are more effective in this respect, but they are more stock overall than the build in this thread. The Fernandez ford turbo in the pro class this year was good for a flat 1min40, but even with wide dunlop semis, power down was really holding the car back from dropping into the 30's. I think they had to drop the tune back to reduce peak torque as the spinning rears were reducing the lap times. I also agree that the more time spent testing a build like this at the actual Eastern Creek circuit, the better.

Every "expert" has a slightly different opinion. Set up is an art form and not easy! Just keep it simple. I prefer/recommend what has been proven to work in practice or works for your individual driving style. For your next track day: - Keep your stiffer springs/shocks and bigger front bar. - Fit an adjustable rear Whiteline bar and play with the settings. As mentined previously, I found the hardest setting best to reduce understeer but it may be different for you as you have different springs/shocks and driving style. - If your current settings provide a huge amount of grip at the rear, perhaps just change the front tyres to some Falken RT615's, next step up from the 452's if you are happy with this brand. In the meantime, remove your rearbar and drive some twisty roads with your current set up. It's a no cost experiment. It may well be perfect for you personally and you won't need to purchase an adjustable rear bar.

The ZF upgrades include new 7-plate clutch pack and 4-planet planetary gearset for improved torque capacity.

I had my FG diff bushes replaced under warranty 2 weeks ago. I asked if they were putting in these mysterious new 2010 diff bushes but they hadn't heard of them. In my experience with Ford Service depts though, it doesn't mean they don't exist though.

There are a lot of factors when it comes to making these cars handle and there are really only a handful of people with real experience that have had success with trial and error over the years. Often the best theory does not work in practice. Wholesale suspension are good for street track applications, so are East Coast Suspenion in Sydney. I went through this process last year and could not find any off the shelf products that suited my requirements. Ford engineers fitted the larger (from BF) 32mm front bar to the FG for a reason, but it is still hollow. I took it one step further and had a "solid" front 32mm front sway bar to my FG, fitted from Selby/East Coast Suspenion. I think Wholesale have a bigger one for FG now too. Another, and I believe the most important factor to getting handling correct is matching your damping and spring rates. I went with a rebuildable Koni shock with custom made internals to suit the spring rate of my lowered springs. Costs a little bit more but worth it long term as a perfect street/track compromise.

The ad said Voltage offsets are supplied with sizes from 65-91lbs and I received the 60lb, so didn't receive any extra info. I have a laptop and xcal3 but do I need any software? Can I access my dyno sheets this way through the xcal3?

I disagree that better tyres will not improve the understeer. Sticky R rated tyres can often mask poor handling characteristics like understeer up to a certain level. However, I do agree that this is not addressing the cause of the problem. Just a bandaid cure, but one that will improve everything from braking to acceleration on a track day, so therefore first on my list of mod suggestions.

At this stage seing it was your first time at a track, I would just keep it simple and not touch the rear camber. Stock is fine. More negative front will be more beneficial for the track. What you need in my opinion: 1. Better tyres (see my recommendations above), and set them to mid 30's hot. 2. A track wheel alignment at Wholesale Suspension with more negative camber. 3. A rear adjustable sway bar (set to max) seeing you already have the front sorted.

Very sorry to hear you still haven't got this issue sorted. It must be very frustrating at the moment but long term I am confident the car will go very hard and reliably.

Having trouble posting pics but these are the ones I have waiting to go on. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/EV14-60LB-BOSCH-FUEL-INJECTORS-FG-XR6T-LS1-9-3-4-LENGTH-/200396439789?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=200396439789