nelsonian101

They were grooved by Bill at Gordon Leven Motorsport Emu Plains. Did a great job. Very knowledgeable bloke with anything tyre related.

I have run 2 sets of R888 285 30 18 on the back of my street rims. (One set of 245: 345,000kms on the clock I go through a few sets :)) 2nd set I had 2 extra grooves put down the centre for wet ability. Made the road noise even worse but helped with water until half worn.

19" really limits you then :( Have seen some real good deals on Continental Contiforcecontact. Only 80 tread wear. Wont last long though but sticky. Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 or Pirelle Trofeo are other options but very expensive. AD08R comes in a 275 30 19 which would be a good street tyre and also fit easily on a 9.5" rim. 285 fit on the rear of 9.5" rims too. Gives you access to the ZP Michelins and Race version of the Sportsmaxx.

Leaning towards street/wet ability or track? Width is your friend. Have you maxed your rear rim width? Yokohama AD08R, Bridgestone RE-71R, Dunlop Direzza Star Spec 2 in a wider spec might do the job and suit yor requirements even though they are a 200 tread wear tyre spec. From experience R888 is at the bottom end of the 100 treadwear R specs in out right grip. Lower the number/stickier they are usually. Nitto NT01 same compound as the Toyo's and a lot cheaper. Even Nankang are making some tasty cost effective semi's now. AR1 are very cheap and sticky. Far superior grip will be achieved with a "proper" R spec like a Hankook Ventus TD Z221 or Yokohama A050 but forget life. Depends how serious you are about grip/life/$ to throw away. If you don't need lateral grip for corners, then an MT street is your best bet.

I contemplated one of these front bars (FG type) above a few years back but decided against it as it was still a street daily at the time. I was concerned with the time it would take to put on/off for every track day I did as it wouldn't make it out of my driveway without damage. My current splitter takes 10min to install with threaded holes for bolts in the stock front bar underneath done by JSAI aero. Other concern was fitting with a large intercooler as these were designed for the V8. I am guessing cutting is required and strengthening. If you can get it working though, the aero design is far superior to what I have.

Both Have a few pics to upload but have a 49kb limit http://circuitclub.com.au/event/86# More pic problems :(

Both

33deg and big boost turbos don't mix. :( Could not get one lap in without limp mode. Good day though. Will try again in August. http://circuitclub.com.au/event/86

Thanks for the offer mate. What rims are they?

Would be 19 or 20" as can clear the rear shock bracket with less aggressive offsets. Need 18"

Want to run 295 30 18" on the rear of my FG sedan in NSW Timeattack. I have seen it done once with the Shannons Nationals FG XR6T production racer with a custom offset 18 X 10 Koya forged rim. Did not find the exact offset but would imagine around +30 with 2deg neg camber. Has anyone done this? I am aware 19" and 20" is much easier but no rubber choices. Thanks.

Fitted more bonnet vents and have solid diff bushes all round. Centre and sides. Winton will be 32degC so hopefully I get some decent laps in. Pics to follow.

The A050 or Z221 Ventus TD are infinitely better tyres than the R888R if interested in lap times. As mentioned, these Nankang A1R are much better value than the R888R too if leaning towards sub 100 tw r specs. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NANKANG-AR-1-TYRE-80-TW-265-35ZR18-97Y-XL-COMPETITION-SEMI-SLICK-R34-GTR-JZA80-/262742695377?hash=item3d2caf5dd1:g:TWIAAOSwRH5XKIe4

Over the 140 Treadwear rating is what you are looking for, that is streetable. Yokohama AD08R. Hankook RS3. RS4 out soon. Bridgestone RE71R. Dunlop Direzza Star Spec 2. Bit cheaper Federal RSRR or Nankang N2R. Toyo R888 would work too but is a 100 treadwear rating and not as good a street tyre as above (ie noisewise, wet ability) Goodride Sport RS are also good value too.

Very broad question, but I will try and answer. What size, event, goals, budget? What camber and spring rates are you running to take advantage of the stick rubber? What is your trackday experience? Starting with a street semi 140+ treadwear is a better way to go and more enjoyable getting the rear end out predictably. Yokohama Ad08R, RE71R, Hankook RS3 are all ok and what I'll be using at NSW Time Attack. If chasing lap times on a 2nd set of rims, 2nd hand Porsche (fronts) cup slicks are often found in 240 250 or 270 in 18". Cheapest way to go fast. I have hook ups. Gone through heaps of sets. Luck what you get 2nd hand, depends on heat cycling. They are difficult to set hot pressure and make little noise. Think all grip then nothing. Not progressive and a bitch to balance. I really recommend new Hoosier R7 at the moment but think $500 per tyre. Hankook Z214 are also great and a little cheaper but not much. These are grooved slicks. R spec casing and less sensitive to set up and less of a hassle than full slicks. If budget not a concern, I'd recommend Yokohama A050. Hankook Ventus TD a bit cheaper. Used both soft and medium but depends on the event. These are grooved and will also do a wet lap if required. Nankang have some cheap semi's on ebay at the moment. I can go into a lot more detail with specific questions.

I'm heading down to Winton again with Circuit Club March 13th. This time with the rear wing and splitter. Hoping for a 36 or 37 this time if all goes well. Refitted another PWR 55mm radiator in a further attempt to keep temps stable.

I agree. Circuits are much safer than Rallies or even Hillclimbs in my opinion. Tyres get up to temp on supersprints and there is far more run off. Wakefield is basically a big paddock.

Note: Have since gone to a smaller, lighter Eway/Etag to lose weight..lol

Pic at Winton. http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/83

This book below is highly recommended. Covers braking, turn in points, how to get on throttle as early and smoothly as possible. All crucial for a good lap. https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021

Agree completely. "Twist of the wrist" series of books, are my favorite books and transitions to car's very well. Preparation is key though. I have 20 years of circuit experience too remember, and have competed and won 5 motorbike races in the mid 90's. I do not believe increasing my corner speed will dramatically reduce my lap times at a track like Wakefield. I'm at the limit there. I have 7 years of data for that track. Hundreds of laps. Tried everything. Plenty of room for improvement at SMP and Winton though. I have a large cooler at removed foglight. Thermo fan sucking air through. Big finned sump. ZF temps are now controlled.

The secret to going faster? Spend more money. The bigger front splitter I run sometimes is from JSAI. Small one from HO Interceptor Concepts. Rear wing was custom made using a CF Chises ebay wing. Local Engine strengthened supports/water jet cut. Wing reinforced by myself and JSAI tested to speed limiter 230kmh. Having technical problems trying to edit my sig and have given up. It's well out of date now. Tried a few different browsers but no luck.

FG XR6T Built ZF Ported/GTX3576R. 4 pot Brembos, track pads H16=03, Hawk DTC70, Circo . Brake Ducting, floating rotors. Truetrac diff. Track Wheels 18" x 9.5" +22 SSR Type C Street, 10.5" Work Emotion: Goodyear Eagle F2 asymmetric. Circuit: 275 Z214, 265 Z221, A050, Hoosier R7. Turbo side airbox . 4" Dump. Plazmaman 1000hp Intercooler/alloy piping.ID1000 Injectors. Dual Fuel Rail/regulator. Shrouded PWR 55mm Radiator. Camber kits with Custom made 1000lb revalved bilsteins. Solid front swaybar and adjustable rear swaybar. Engine oil cooler/thermo fan. Extra ZF cooling with air cooler/thermos fan, finned ZF sump with extra volume. Temps monitored with Alarm sensored watchdogs.

Mod list is in the sig but now have a GTX3576R, E85 on track days. What did you want to know in particular?