nelsonian101

18 x 10 won't fit on the back. The centre of the inner wheel will touch suspension components. 20 x 10 will fit. 18 x 9.5 will fit (with 265-275 tyre) ranging from 30 to 38 offset depending on lowering and rear negative camber. The tyre compound is more important anyway. Neova ado8, bridgestone re11 are the best best street semi's going in my opinion for all round ability.

You don't even have to plug use a laptop to monitor coolant temp. Just plug it in the serial port before starting. Can't remember exactly but self explanatory. Select data logging. Monitor etc. With show a live reading with the engine temp running in Fahrenheit. Very easy. Better still download the software on the Herrod website. It is fantastic. http://www.herrodmotorsport.com.au/SCTPerformanceTuning/SCTSoftware/LiveLinkDataLoggingSoftware/tabid/261/Default.aspx Downloadd the software to your laptop. Plug the xcal into the serial port, then into the laptop while driving. I use some velcro and put the laptop in the passenger footwell. (Lots of tape on trackdays too)

Keep it simple. Don't get caught up in too much theory. If you seriously want to reduce understeer at the track. 1. Proper R Spec tyres. A very effective symptomatic cure. Even if it doesn't address the cause. 2. As much front negative camber as you can get. Camber kit is required to get over 2 deg. 3. Stiffer front springs, preferably with your shock absorbers valved to match spring rate. My fronts are over 600lb which are fine for me on the street too. 4. Already assumed you are using the biggest solid front sway you can fit. 5. Speak to a suspension shop that knows how to set Falcons up. (preferably with experience in V8 utes) I recommend Wholesale suspension and East Coast Suspension in Sydney.

This is insanely fast! What has been stripped out to achieve such a low weight? Have you driven Eastern Creek? Can you list all your mods please. I thought anything under 2min there was fast for these barges! I'm giving it a go next year at the Island.

I went out Sat am, but didn't see any times up.

Record some video if you can!

Had the same thing happen to me. Extra boost was blowing out spark. New plugs. Regapped to 0.8mm. Runs fine.

Any more details on this new coolant? Thanks.

I know a forum member here Erko ran some work cr kai on a BF ages ago. 18 x 8.5 front I think +30 offset. 18 x 9.5" rear +38 offset.

I was one of the first to get a preordered FGXR6T mid'08 when they first came out. Originally on the options list you could get an Auxillary Oil cooler for about $200. Ford stuffed, bigtime. I ticked the box but received nothing as all ZF's come with the smaller yellow dot heat exchanger. I complained, as a few others did and got the whole Police Pack free which included the oil cooler/heat exchanger below and bigger ZF heat exchanger. Now, I repalce them every 2 years as the alloy is low quality and I don't want my coolant mixing with transmission fluid any time soon. There is also an sandwich oil cooler/heat exchanger as part of this pack between block and filter which comes part of the Police pack on FG and is stock on F6.

I have an FGXR6T ZF and changed to the bigger F6 heat exchanger with more plates no worries.

I agree. Are these available for FG?

Thanks. Have a lot to learn about these new turbos. Do these bolt straight on to the fgxr6t and does it offer the fast throttle response I am after?

What boost level to get 330rwkw on the stock turbo? and how do you find the lag characteristics of the gtx compared to the stock fg turbo with the small compressor wheel?

Haven't posted in this section before but here goes..... I've already raked up over 130,000kms on my fgxr6t. Most work/freeway kms but take it to the circuit (Wakefield, Eastern Creek, Marulan) about 4x/year. My current mods are panel K&N filter, xr8 intake/snorkel. Stepped pwr intercooler/alloy piping. Bosch ev14 52lb injectors, 5" 100cpi cat. The car currently runs anywhere between 15 and 18psi boost between 285 and 310rwkw. Last 50,000kms have been over 15psi. Don't take it drag racing but when I take it to the circuit, it gets pushed as hard as I can for 5 laps at a time with careful emphasis on cooldown. Have used the good stuff 10W 40 Royal Purple engine oil ($99 5litres!) since after run in from 7,500kms. Oil/filter is usually changed every 7,500kms or 8 weeks for me. Toyed with the idea of an Earls filter but decided to get the stock one replaced at 80,000kms. This may change when the inevitable happens. My question is turbo choice. I love the fast spool up/low lag the smaller fg compresser wheel provides, and want to retain this characteristic. I am after throttle response putting power down carefully on corner exit at the track (why v8's are superior at the track!) and am afraid if I go to the bigger turbo found on the BF, I will lose this gradual power down control. I'm not after massive dyno numbers but a lower boost 320-330rwkw would be nice, if possible on a low lag turbo. Any suggestions? Thanks.

............you could probably get one....... by "one", obviously referring to the custom tune for the 30-40rwkw, using left over $ by not buying the expensive SS intake.

$800!!! Save you money and get a FGXR8 intake and snorkel (modify so bonnet will close)with K&N panel filter. No custum tune tune required but with the change from $800 you could probably get one. Car will run a genuine 30-40rwkw more.

How did they go? Smooth at idle? No stalling? I am having problems with 52lb Bosch EV14's stalling, running too rich at idle.

Has anyone used the real ID725 for FG? 1000's seem too big for under 320rwkw with the FG turbo. http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID725.html

Also, have you done a thermostat mod and will it make a difference at the track?

Hi Nigel, I'm getting quite interested in these addictive track days! Have taken your recommendations up bit by bit so far. Have removed the rubber seal at the back of the bonnet and am in the process of making a vented bonnet from one I found at the wreckers. Also trying to find a front fg vented fender guard with limited success so far. Already have the sandwich F6 engine oil cooler between the block and filter, but am getting a proper air cooled engine oil filter next week. Probably mounted behind foglight. According to the temp. gauge website above the sensor fits directly to the engine block where it will reflects the engine temperature correctly, or as near the heat source as possible. Examples are under a tappet cover bolt that is away from the exhaust ports to monitor cylinder temperature or a thermostat housing bolt to monitor coolant and the block temperature. Not close to the ignition system or the exhaust system. The end result will be a monitoring system that is very accurate that alarms before the engine has a chance to overheat too much. Temp can be set anywhere under 125deg. Main reason is I can relax a bit more on track, concentrate on lines/traffic and not if I am damaging engine.

Keen for these pics to go up too.

I upgraded to the Territory rears on a FGXR6T with the ventilated 328mm rotors. I use the car at the circuit a bit and need to know if there are any pads which are known to fit these calipers. There is a wide choice for my front Brembos but I have only tried the stock pads and Ferrodos for the back so far. Want something a bit better. Thanks.

At what coolant and oil temperature does limp mode kick in on a FGXR6T? I am doing more track days and don't like continually watching my temp gauge or damaging the engine by continually going into limp mode. I am thinking of installing one of these (range 0 to 125degC): http://www.sig.itel.net/ It connects to the engine block for accurate temp. What temp. would I set it on for safe engine track temp before limp mode shuts everything down?

I'll be there at Eastern Creek this Thursday 23rd pm. Turn 2 and 12 has been resurfaced. Did you gain time here?