nelsonian101

Eastern Creek was raining all day when I went there recently, hence no slicks and much cooler diff due to surface water. I have had problems with diff oil (smoke onto muffler) there in the past, even with the stock car. From memory, someone was racing an FG FPV F6 in a production race (5 or 6hr) against the HSV's, Evo's, 3 MPS etc a couple of years ago. I remember watching something on Speedweek. They had to pull out of the endurance race not due to engine overheating, but due to diff problems. Rules were they had to run the stock 8" FPV wheels and were using some old Typhoon 8 x 18's with semi's I think. Definitely not slicks. Anyone know how they sorted it?

My last 2 track days have not stressed the diff that much so I'm not sure yet. One was raining at Eastern creek and one was at Wakefield where the car lapped 4 seconds slower than usual due to boost leak problems. (Top speed was 30km/h down on this day) The FG has also done 170,000kms now so I can see myself going to an after market diff soon anyway.

Thanks mate. Where do you recommend purchasing this oil?

I am after the best LSD diff oil available to prevent overheating at the circuit. Car is a FGXR6T. Slicks at the back are making the diff work very hard. I have used the stock Castrol, Nulon (which include the LSD additives) Also tried Mainlube, which was better, but am keen for any other suggestions. Thanks.

Sedan. Their is a bit of a thread pertruding but smaller dia. than the bolt. The rear shocks are revalved Koni reds. Have custom Koni Coilvers at the front and more details are found in a recent thread in this forum.

sorry if this is a thread hi jack or a dumb question, but I was checking my rear shocks yesterday and noticed there are no nuts attached to the bolt at the base of the rear shock absorbers. Is this normal? I do a bit of circuit driving on slicks and was wondering if it possible for both sides to fully loosen with so much friction? Thanks.

Dave from East Coast Suspensions in Sydney did the set up and we measured toe difference which was minimal. Some shim adjustments were made too. You raise a valid point that has got me thinking. I've always had problems with front inner tyre wear on theis FG, even with stock suspension. Had different wheel alignment places have a crack at it too. Have given up and use directional tyres now which can be flipped.

Have a "listen" to these ZF gear changes from 3rd to 4th at Wakefield Park. Sound ok? Can they be made quicker with a tune and is it flaring? FF to 1min33, 2min 47, and 4min02 ZF box has done 165,000kms. Oil changed every year with genuine ZF. Heat Exchanger changed annually too with bigger F6 version. (No tranny cooler and no ZF tune but tranny temps are monitored and ok) Pay no attention to the lap times, The car had a major boost leak on the day and was lapping over 3 seconds slower than usual. 3rd would not rev out any where near as quick as usual. I look very concerned in the video with lack of torque in 3rd.......

Yep, but it's fronts that do 90% of the work.

Have the Territory upgrade for rear with slotted 328mm Ventilated Rotors.

Thought I would post some pics of my FG's front end. Pretty much perfect now for street and track in my opinion. Brakes: 4pot Brembos. Switch pads for circuit days.(Have used circuit Endless PC35, SBS Dual Carbon Race and next set will be Project Mu H16-03. Street prefer Brembo stock pads. Didn't like Hawk ceramic at all.) DBA5000 T3 rotors. Much lighter, cooler and alloy hat is easier on front bearings. Lines are braided stainless. Fluid AP Racing 5.1. Suspension. You can just see the light blue MASSIVE front sway bar. Custom Selby, which is solid too. I now also have heavy duty sway bar links. Control arm bushes were upgraded by Wholesale Suspension in Sydney. Rest of the work below was done at East Coast Suspensions. Shocks are custom, gutted re-valved Koni reds to allow much more flow. Primary spring is a 650lb Motorsport coil. These were perfect for circuit but lack of travel meant they were very poor on small and large bumps on the road. This was solved by adding the secondary purple springs. They are usually set at the top but I need the space to adjust the camber bolts. At the top of the shock you can see 1 camber bolt each side. I can go from stock to 3.5deg negative without affecting wheel alignment. Results are, I reckon, one of the best handling FG's out there.

The max tyre width I would fit on a 8" rim is 245. It will actually provide better grip in the corners anyway. Look at 9.5's if you want 265's on the back.

At what oil temp does the ECU go into limp mode?

The video starts at turn 3, going down the hill for the right hander turn 4.

Very, very wet.... and after not raining for a month, it buckets down 10minutes before my first session. Didn't stop either. Bonus was I got to drive the new track! Even in the wet, traction was ok in the new section, possibly because I was going pretty slowly. The uphill left hander at the end is fantastic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hqot3...ature=youtu.be

Gary is building a new banked turn coming onto the straight. The positive camber must be seen to be believed! Slingshot like a mini Nurburg ring!

Rear whiteline adjustable. Front biggest that fits. Solid, not hollow like the stock one. Think it's 32mm from memory. Car handles very well on uniform tyres all round. Just the extreme mismatch between front and rear tyre traction caused this unique tendancy out of tight, decreasing radius corners. I'm not concerned with it and the grip will be sorted soon.

I am out at Eastern Creek on May 24th. Drop into the pits if you get time. I am in the Silver (Lightning Strike) FGXR6T with small black front splitter. I have only been using the dead R888's on the front. On the back I use grooved Hankook Z214 slicks which are incredible. 4 track days old and still going strong. Only $200ea from tirerack which is even more incredible. I run 3.5deg neg camber and 600lbplus springs on the front which even out the grip mismatch front and rear slightly but not enough. Car has a strange tendancy to power understeer!

I am down to 1.09's. I reckon 1.08's next time if I used these Z214 grooved slicks on the front too. Have been using shagged R888's on the front until now. I think Rosie is down to 1.07's?

I have been using Livelink connected via my SCT Xcal3 box via cable to my laptop to monitor just about everything. http://www.herrodmot...61/Default.aspx Just wanted something a little less cumbersome in the car via iphone if available.

Is there an iphone app that can actually read ZF transmission oil temperature or oil temperature? Had a quick look at Dashcommand, Gopoint and Rev but not sure if they can. Torque on Android is the only one that has this feature?

I used these guys to service mine. I recommend them. http://gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89&Itemid=92

So So did I!

Ebay $999 + $99 delivery. http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/I.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=18+rota&_sacat=See-All-Categories