nelsonian101

Went to Winton today with Circuit club and finished with a 1min35.4.

One piece tailshaft in! Last one did 350,000kms with completely dead centre bearing.

Marulan is great for a first timer because the speeds are low and it's less intimidating. I may be there August 20th too. The G6 will be quick as long as the brakes are good. I recorded this video over 8 years ago now when the car was close to stock. Damn I've been doing this too long in this car. http://www.mdtc.com.au/ The track has since been extended though with a banked turn coming onto straight. Longer version here. My last day there 2 years ago was really frustrating (as you can hear from my reaction) as the car wouldn't shift into 2nd after the main straight resulting in no lap times being set. Motivating me to try again next month!

Completely normal for the clunk when cold. Just be patient and let it warm up. 114k isn't many kms. Crescent Motorsports or Autotech Engineering will both do a refurbishment for under $4k if required.

A richer tune helps cooling too. Lean AFR's gain power, but useless on a hot circuit.

I agree and use E85 at the circuit. I had a Fenix for a while but it died in a crash and they no longer make them for FG (BF ok with different mounts) ZF stays cool now with high volume, lower finned sump and does not affect engine temps. Post above referred to engine coolant and engine oil temps. The manual thermo fan over ride switch was for the radiator/engine coolant and works really well staging in dummy grid and cool down laps. Has solved many problems for me as long as the hot air has an escape point via vents.

Re: Overheating. lol Tell me about it.:) Even in 19 ambient. Boost is your enemy. Tried the coolant additives like Water wetter/purple ice but did stuff all. Tried waterless coolant. Same result. You Need to shroud the radiator with foam, remove air con condenser, allow hot air to get out by raising rear of bonnet (I have a custom made spacer (not washers) or bonnet vents via lazer pyrometer hot spotting. Don't disregard oil temps and assume decent oil cooler is fitted with cool air access and thermos fan. Thermo fan override switch was recently fitted and very effective allowing manual override. High volume radiator for coolant with cooler thermostat helps too. Water spraying and fans in pits help as well. Onto my 2nd PWR 55mm one. 2nd one fitted more carefully to prevent contact/stray current corrosion. Have also tried fenix and chinese ebay radiators.

I'm running a couple of seconds under the v8 Brute Ute lap records in my over developed pig, so I'd be looking for a 1min05 on the long track hopefully. 58? Dreamin......

Keen to try these tracks eventually one day!

Nice effort. Barbagello doesn't look like an easy track to get the lines first go.

Next one is Winton August 12th. Finishing off the old Hoosier R7 275 and 285. If anyone is keen to try their XR6T at a track day, do it! http://circuitclub.com.au/page/upcoming-events Hopefully getting some AME Tracers in 18 x 10.5" +15 after that.

Had an awesome day at NSW Time Attack over the weekend at Wakefield. Condition were perfect. Goal was a 1.09 on street rubber (200 Treadwear RS3) and ended up with a high 1.08 which was totally unexpected. So much fun sliding the car progressively on a predictable, forgiving tyre. Had 275 on the back (285 front) and need 295 all round to be quicker next year! Will be fitting some 18 X 10.5 +15 rims all round later this year. (Flared at the back) Pics soon.

And finally a race seat goes in! One piece Alloy tailshaft next.

New street rears 285 35 18 Hankook RS3 Fronts are temporary 265 35 18 A050.

Mod updates. Ordered a one piece aluminum tailshaft. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVa2rupBnYI Stock one did 345,000kms and still ok but shagged centre bearing etc

-2deg! tomorrow for Wakefield May 10th. I'll leave the thermos fans off. first session. http://www.weatherzone.com.au/nsw/southern-tablelands/goulburn

Didn't log anything this time unfortunately. Next week should be a good 15deg cooler though. I have placed a 10mm spacer on both bonnet brackets to allow hot air to get out (better than rubber seal removal) and have had a manual over ride switch fitted for the engine coolant thermo's. Replaced the Thermostat too which wasn't opening perfectly everytime.

Many budget pads will work with 245 fronts but not all. I'm of the opinion that spending $200 more on something this important (like stopping power) is well worth it and very cheap bang for buck mod. Can you make it May 10th?!

Re race brake pads, I recommend the following for circuit: (Bear in mind, I've tried many many brands. Best of the best. Manufacturers/distributors have approached me for independent testing as I have a reputation for destroying them in my 1800kg, underbraked, front overtyred( front) biased trackpig car) Project Mu H16-03, Hawk DTC70, Circo M207. Endless also make quality pads. PC35 are a quality street track pad. I don't care about noise or dust. Worst I have used are QFM A1RM, Hawk Ceramic and the cheaper Forzas which are probably fine for Street, but not for multiple ABS circuit stops with 285 sub 100 tread wear fronts.

Next one for me is May 10th at Wakefield with Trackschool. http://www.trackschool.com.au/wp-track_days.html

Drop out to Wakefield in a couple of weeks May 10th if you want to check the car over.

For brakes, best and most cost effective option would be 2nd hand 6 pot Brembo fronts with some race pads (swapped for the track day). Pads are very important. No use buying huge calipers from some obscure manufacturer if proper Racespec pads are not readily available. Don't believe any quoted coeff friction numbers or Temp ratings quoted by manufacturers. Please PM me before you waste any money. I've tried most out there with varying results on my underbraked car. Rears don't do much but a Territory upgrade is a cost effective option to 328mm. Brake fluid use something with over 320degC boiling point. Flush/bleed before every track day.

Welcome to the Falcon circuit world. True, as many have stated, a street Falcon is not an ideal circuit car as it's too heavy, hard on brakes, slow on direction change but can be very satisfying to improve/mod slowly over time. 1. Tranny choice depends on how serious you are. I've tracked (full circuit Supersprints) a ZF for 9 years. It does the job, but not ideal. If you are daily driving it too, the ZF is better. I am unaware of the ZF6 having downchange revving software. Mine has had many different ZF tunes and I've asked for this too. 2. The Barra is a heavy iron block. The Miami is also heavy and mounted high, especially with Supercharger mods. Neither are an ideal circuit engine. I've also chosen turbo's based on low end/midrange boost capability not max hp. The stock GT3576 on E85 was awesome for circuits 3rd gear and under. My current GTX3576R has more than enough midrange but lost the mid corner punch. GTX3582R is too laggy, but possibly quicker on long circuits. Too much boost overheats them in 5 laps anyway. 3. What is your budget? Depends on how serious you are and what front width, compound tyre you are running.