nelsonian101

Good advice thanks. Just need to educate myself a bit more in order to be fully prepared before the inevitable happens.

I use my FGXR6T as my daily driver and circuit car. I've had my turbo rebuilt at GCG once before at about 150,000kms 2 years ago and was very happy with the service. Turbo will be up for an upgrade soon as it used more and more on the circuit. Currently done 212,000kms too. Keeping the car for 3 more years. The car in on E70-85 Eflex most of the time and is heavily modified, both Chassis and engine. 4" Turbo side intake. Dual Fuel rail, extra pumps, intercooler etc. I don't want over 370-400rwkw as it cant be used at the circuit even on slicks. An even 15-17psi across the rev range would be great around 360-370rwkw would be perfect. What is VERY important is I don't want to lose the low down torque that the small compressor wheel provides. Just want more mid range/ top end too. Nice fat area under the graph. To save money I am more interested in modifying my stock FGXR6T turbo (high flow, billet wheels etc) than switching to a GTX3576R with external gate. A GTX3582R would have too much lag for my requirements at Wakefield and expanding exit 3rd gear turns. What do you recommend and who can do this? Thanks.

Good suggestion, but still prefer the fwd/back shifting of the ZF. What does the base of the ZF handle look like. Any pics of one removed? Would it be easy for an engineering shop to make one out of alloy?

Strange request but I am wondering if there is an extension handle for the ZF shifter itself if that makes sense. I have long lanky forearms and even with the seat right back, the shifter is never in the correct position for limit shifting at the circuit. Needs to be further fwd and closer to the wheel. Don't want to spend a fortune on something custom made, but may have to?

Just replaced the rotors back to some new T3 DBA4000. Have been snapping the 5000's. Hopefully the one piece will be stronger. Question is, what is the correct Torque Wrench setting for the 10mm Allen Key bolts that hold the calipers on? Thanks.

Mine does the same thing after numerous gasket changes too. Might try silicone too.

Old thread, but is this the same process for FG sedan with side curtain airbags too? Will I get a airbag warn light on dash and can it be removed by tuner, or trip to Ford? Thanks.

The new HSV GTS is too heavy to ever be fast on a track. Even with a lot of mods, don't think I could make it quicker than what I currently have.

My car is a ZF auto also. They are fine for circuit days. Just leave in Performance mode if learning to free up some brain power for your lines/braking points. In winter they don't get too hot. Just don't do too many laps and remember to do a cooldown lap. I drive out of the complex at Wakefield for a few kms, do a U turn and back to cool brakes, engine etc 3rd in ZF can be used for most of the circuit at Wakefield in these cars. Just 2nd onto the straight and up to 4th on the main straight, back to 3rd for turn 2. Maybe 2nd at fish hook and turn 2 if there's traffic around. With a few mods and power, 4th is needed up the hill and down the hill and the back straight. It did over 20 trackdays without an external cooler too. I just changed the fluid/filter every year along with the heat exchanger. Actually getting ZF rebuilt at CMS next week. Will be trying Mainlube oil this time.

That car is owned by "Rosie" on this forum. Quickest XR6T circuit car I know of!

Definitely head out this one below. Book ASAP as spaces fill up. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/85185-wakefield-park-circuit-club-september-7th/ I also attend the Driving solutions days at SMP sometimes. http://www.sydneymotorsportpark.com.au/experience/detail/ARDC-TRACK-DAYS/1 Also did a time attack (sorry consistency) round here last year at Marulan. http://mdtc.com.au/

Pics and times up from the last Wakefield Circuit Club day. Looks like a White F6 ute getting some practice in! http://www.circuitclub.com.au/event/41

Latest Circuit Club lap times are up. http://circuitclub.com.au/event/41

All up, maybe $4-5k?

The previous front koni coilover set up was a bit harsher than my current bilstein set up even when the spring rate was much lower, but still fine for street. I've had a lot of front spring shock combos (7 actually!) and the current one is perfect both for street and circuit. It is a custom made Bilstein Coilover from Heasemans with a 1000lb main Eibach spring with a 2nd soft spring on top for small road bumps. The Bilstein is heavily revalved internally to cope with the spring rate (done in house at Heasemans/Bilstein in Sydney). I cannot recommend this front enough! Definitely not too harsh for the street. Big solid, front sway bar is also essential. Superpro bushes in there too and simply holes drilled (and bolt shift) in the upper control arm bracket for camber adjustment.

Saw a few xr6t's lining up as I drove out of SMP on Wednesday. Got a few weird looks as I drove out with my front splitter and diffuser....... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/85736-pics-of-275s-all-round-for-circuit/

2 more XR6t from the day. One more and one less modified than mine.

Don't know a great deal about other intercoolers, but the top section of the stepped design does block a bit of air flow to the radiator for track work. Been fine for me though.

Any decent intercooler will do the job. In hindsight, one that doesn't block the radiator as much this, and a bit lighter would have been ideal, but this one seems to do the job fine. Both foglights are removed too. One feeding the pod filter and the other an engine oil cooler mounted to the front left bar.

You can take your number plates off at Wakefield if you want. They are pretty casual there. Are you looking to save another 100 grams or just for the reduced wind resistance!?

Experience with bikes really helps with general circuit technique. I raced for 2 years in the RB Imports series, Oran Park and Amaroo in the late 90's (750's and 250's). Actually won 5 races too! A book I highly recommend is "Twist of the Wrist" 1st edition. Principles such as rolling on the throttle as early and smoothly as possible apply to cars too and is the best advice I have ever been given.

My car does not have a lot of top end power. What is does have is low end grunt and torque. Best times are on about 300rwkw tune. I actually found my 350rwkw tune slower as getting power down was too difficult. Peak power has very little to do with it, especially at Wakefield. What I have found you need is a big area under the dyno graph low down. I.e. you want instant power and torque low in the rev range for maximum corner exit speed. Especially in 3rd gear for expanding exit turns. The small FG turbo is perfect for this with E85 and a 4" turbo side intake. Lag is non existent and acceleration more explosive off the turns from 2000-3000rpm than any big turbo 500rwkw dyno queen. I don't use the last 500rpm and actually shift at 5000rpm To answer your question, my car with current wheel/tyre combo and suspension/braking mods even if it had stock 230rwkw would be quicker than a much more powerful tuned car without the brakes/chassis mods to support it. Power was the last thing I altered. These cars don't need power, just more grip for acceleration, braking and cornering. My current wheel/tyre combo would poke out 28mm further than the stock +35 offset 245 rear tyre assuming camber was the same. Before my rear guards were rolled, I only just fit 275/35 18's on the back with my road +35 rims. There is no way a +22 offset would fit without a guard roll on my car or rear camber changes sorry.

Thanks for the suggestion. Might have to look into this or relocate the ps cooler as the current intercooler blocks it. What are people using and where do they mount it?

The FG has a power steering cooler as part of the stock set up, mounted in front of radiator. I change the ps fluid every year.

http://www.jpmphoto.com.au/frame_2.htm These pics show just how much mechanical grip is available from 275's all round. Especially the front!