nelsonian101

E70 Castrol Eflex is a good compromise. My car runs a lot smoother and runs cooler on it. About 30rwkw more too. Car feels MUCH more responsive on Ethanol. Even off boost due to timing changes in the tune. 105 Octane will allow that. In North West Sydney the availablilty of E70 Eflex has really dropped off. Caltex Pendle Hill, Richmond and Manly Caltex have it. That's it. When going to Eastern Creek, take some Jerry cans and fill up at Pendle Hill. 5 min drive away. Plenty of United E85 outlets though. United even have a phone app with it's nearby availability. Before switching, do a search. Keep in mind the extra fuel system requirements and the pathetic 300km (or less!) range you will get before empty.

E70 Castrol Eflex is a good compromise. My car runs a lot smoother and runs cooler on it. About 30rwkw more too. Car feels MUCH more responsive on Ethanol. Even off boost due to timing changes in the tune. 105 Octane will allow that. In North West Sydney the availablilty of E70 Eflex has really dropped off. Caltex Pendle Hill, Richmond and Manly Caltex have it. That's it. When going to Eastern Creek, take some Jerry cans and fill up at Pendle Hill. 5 min drive away. Plenty of United E85 outlets though. United even have a phone app with it's nearby availability. Before switching, do a search. Keep in mind the extra fuel system requirements and the pathetic 300km (or less!) range you will get before empty.

Very true re: dyno numbers. They mean absolutely nothing. The Dyno is a TUNING TOOL. Nothing more. It's like hearing what lap times people think they can do on the circuit. However, when the NATSOFT people come out.................different story...

I have used the Superpro comfort centre diff bush for many years without issue on the circuit, running wide grooved slicks and a Truetrac. Also have 2 side bushes by Superpro. Have not tried the solid or CAT centre bush so cannot comment. Seaton has experience with a few diff bushes used at the circuit, and I would go with his recommendation to be safe.

With regard to an ideal tune for circuit racing? I would say you want a fat area under the dyno graph. A lot of power/torque down low for expanding exit turns in 3rd with boost up top on the straights. 320-380rwkw. Modified GTX3576 would be my choice on 70-85% Ethanol. Anything over 400rwkw is pretty much useless without a serious amount of chassis mods and talent. Change the Garret nylon turbo bushes for steel bearings as the stock Garret ones fry.

As many of you know, I've been fighting the dreaded engine temp saga for years at the circuit! :)d What was the temp at Sanddown that day? Try not to track mine in temps over 25-30deg, but Scatterbrain has regualar high temp track experience. My suggestions would be as follows: - Change your engine oil and brake fluid asap. Both will be fried. - Is yours a ZF or manual? Very often overheating limp mode is misdiagnosed as engine oil temp related, when it's actually the ZF fluis getting too hot. It's very hard to tell what happened. I'd be investing in a few gauges. I've actually found the best one to be a simple alarmed digital gauge that I connect to the thermostat housing for coolant. Preset the alarm for 115-120deg, so you can concentrate on your driving at not check gauges every 60sec. The Aeroforce OBD ones are good too Other things I've done to keep temps down. List is long: - Big engine oil cooler and big ZF oil cooler both fed by removed foglights with thermo fans sucking air through. - Bigger Fenix radiator (or PWR) with custom foam shrouding. - Straight water as coolant with just Redline water wetter or similar as additive. - Big floor mounted industrial fan in pits. Even spray intercooler in pits with water bottle to cool. - Vented bonnet. - Cool down laps and bonnet open all day in the pits. - Shorter session. Usually 5 laps for me. - E70 or E85 with over engineered fuel supply like dual fuel rail etc - lower boost, richer tune. Turning heater on and venting to back seats helps sometimes too. All I can think of at the moment.

Excellent to see another Turbo Taxi out there on the circuit! I've been tracking mine for many years now and still having a lot of fun. Learning as I go. Before your next day, get the brake fluid checked/bled/changed. Sounds like it's fried. A heavier/solid sway bar at the front will help with body roll too. A cheap set of 2nd hand semi slicks are the wisest way to have even more fun and leave just about every Toyota 86 and Boxter a long way back in the mirrors.

How did you go in the end? What mods have you done?

When I had my ZF built had the same problems with clunks. Slowing down, slow speed change from 3rd to 2nd at 20kmh (most people incorrectly misinterpret this as the 2nd to 1st change) was a very loud, jolting, metallic thud. Got better with time. Numerous ZF tunes did nothing.Neither did trying various ZF fluid brands. Problem was hardware related. Manual changing at the circuit and street was perfect though. Just gradually learned to live with it. By product of the extra strength I guess. Mine had a cryo input shaft and extra clutch plates put in. Re: the GTX3576 turbo. I agree. GTX3582 is far too laggy for my needs. I.e. Daily driven circuit car. However, I'm actually gong with an 11 blade billet wheel put onto my GT3576 next week in the 0.50 housing. Should be good for around 380-400 on E70. More than enough for my needs, and I'll probably end up using a lower boost 350-380rwkw tune most of the time.

Attached to my road bonnet for the crap pics.. Only usually attach it to the vented fibreglass bonnet for track days.

I had extra holes drilled in the upper control arm bracket. Instant 3.5neg camber. (Get your toe settings checked after. I prefer toe out at the front for circuit) Difficult job to switch the 2 bolts with regular springs/shocks as the bolts can foul on the springs when swapping between the 2 holes. With coilovers it's easier as the spring collar can be lowered, hence spring free to move with the car jacked up in the centre front. Bad pic but top left you can see the bolt. I have extra holes drilled to switch between camber positions if that makes sense. East Coast suspension came up with the idea after setting up some FG Brute V8 utes. I switch to the 3.5neg camber setting before every track day at the same time I fit the race brake pads.

Some pics from the Nulon Nationals round 2 in July. Quickest road registered Ford by 4 sec with a 1.08.2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlSgeFHynhg

Does have some poke........

My current street rears are 285 35 18 Hankook RS3's. 18 X 9.5 +35 offset. Speedo is fine with 245 40 18 fronts. Check the calculator on 1010tires.com. This + 35 offset with 285's would touch inner guards if not for guard roll on my car which is low at the back. 275's were ok one side, but scraped on the other. Rear camber kit from Wholesale is always an option for those not wishing to roll guards, but why not?? Sydney guard rolling did a perfect job on mine. Cheap too and they drive to you.

I have a short wire cable that attaches near top of the radiator with a bolt. Other end clips onto the existing U-latch on the bonnet. Only use it when the fibreglass bonnet goes on for track days.

Excellent! That worked. Went into tools, compatibility view and added fordxr6t forum. Can cut N paste now.

Works fine in other forums, just not this one. Using internet explorer.

I use CNTRL V to post text, links etc into my posts usually but it has stopped working on this forum. Probably a very simple explanation hopefully? Any ideas? Thanks.

If you don't mind paying big $, Bosnjak Engineering in Sydney are making some FG ones to supply V8 brute ute demand.

Tried some cheap ebay ones and didn't last 6 months.

Are these available for FG?

What other precautionary measures should I take for running long term E70/E85 in a daily driven car? I've done 252,000kms so far and atleast 120,000kms on Eflex/unitede85. Plan on keeping the car for another 100,000kms at least. I used to run the occasional 98 tune with a tank of unleaded 98 petrol, but have been getting slack recently. All fuel lines have been replaced with Eflex hoses. I change fuel filter regularly and run a fuel system cleaner additive to the fuel once a year. Will long term use of water attracting E85 cause any extra damage to engine/cat or anything else I should look out for?

Yes, the ethanol content in E85 will attract water molecules and will produce more white water vapour on start up.

A +40 offset with a 275 on the front will cause the tyre to rub on the upper control arm.

Does anybody make them yet? Thanks.