xr6greg

To clarify my comment. As discussed by some of the other guys the reason that fibreglass, carbon fibre etc bonnets are illegal in most states is because they (may, depends on who made it) 'shear' in a collission and become razor sharp nasty cutting implememts...the government doesn't like that sort of thing to happen to the public so they ban them from being fitted. There is only ONE carbon fibre manufactured bonnet that has been approved by Qld Transport (anything can be approved providing you do the engineers certificate, provide evidence etc) in recent times and I think it was manufactured by Blits (Blitz?) from the Gold Coast. They did the compliance tests etc and it was given the go ahead. Buying a fibreglass or carbon fibre bonnet from your mate, or ebay, or a decent manufacturer may not meet the strict compliance requirement of your State Government. And if you have a collission in your defective vehicle I still think your insurance company will be asking you questions if you put a claim in.

Not sure about other states but I believe they are illegal to fit in Queensland. Last time I checked, a month or so ago, the only non-genuine (steel) bonnet that is approved by Qld Transport is a carbon fibre one. Fibreglass bonnet = defective = a fine + demerit points; not to mention your insurance company wiping you like the proverbial.

I'm no metalurgist, hell - I can't even spell it, but I guess any manufacturing process involving steel will create a chance of failure due to stress fractures, fatigue, etc and this sway bar may have been one of those rare occurrences. You would think Whiteline would have a look at it, determine that no one has taken to it with a sledge hammer or blow torch to cause the failure and hand a new one over and write it off as 'one of those things'. To delay such a simple decision doesn't really look too good for them.

Yes, some makes of extractors are better than others, but you make that decision when you are setting your system up. If you already have a set fitted then go hard with a cat back system and you will get maybe a small increase in power, and definately a better sound. What you're asking is a bit like changing a set of already fitted mag wheels with another set and keeping the old tyres; probably look a bit better but you would have done better to spend the money on new tyres - if that makes sense?

Did a similar thing to my front suspension so I've pm'd you with a few figures to compare yours with.

Steve... Even Full Monty asked a question. We sit patiently waiting for you to teach us how its done!

Waiting patiently for the step-by-step method used to replace the bush...

Why does that not look like a 27mm whiteline sway bar in some of the images? Strange profile on the bar, and you usually have yellow bushes - I realise there is a massive build up of dirt and grime there, but it just doesn't look like a 27mm Whiteline swaybar?

Have you tried the SCT website? Tech support etc?

Did you ge my PM?

About $150.00... lol Those of us who have most of our accessories shipped over from the US of A realise how much we are ripped off over here as far as prices go. Yes. I understand the import duty, GST, shipping and handling argument but I like to get my stuff delivered to my door and usually 30 to 40% cheaper.

Ebay and order them from the US of A. Usually works out at least 40% cheaper and you can get at least three guages mailed over at the same cost as one, so if you want guages - order up big.

XR8 fitted with Herrod headers and an XForce quad system with no issues at all. Sounded a bit wimpish at first as it was a replacement for my previous setup that was rendered useless due to a bit of bad luck; but after a few weeks and a few full throttle runs it seems to have mellowed a fair bit and now sounds OK.

Try a set of 'double' blade inserts and see how that goes.

Straight down to your nearest drift track and get to work on those tyres; the sooner you wear them out and replace them the better. However, on a positive note, I'm sure it was a good idea the time but with the benefit of retrospect I'm sure you will reconsder these types of thoughts in the future...

My basic understanding is that you need a decent amp to power decent speakers to obtain a decent sound - I'm not talking high volume to make the sound decent. At normal volume a decent speakers needs clean power from an amp. I doubt if anyone is good enough to tell the difference between various speakers, once you get into the brand names (Focal, Alpines, etc), if everything is set up correctly. Its ony when you have a real particular need for a certain quality in a speaker that it becomes hyper-important to choose between brands. So figure out your budget, get a (or a couple) of decent amps and hook up some brand name speakers. Me? Pioneer amps and Infinity Kappa and Reference speakers are the go.

Images for comparision with the pot from Jaycar

Installed three cobalt gauges, major issue with how bright they were. Read the linked http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...p;hl=how+to+dim as advised above... Didn't have an electrical degree so I went to Jaycar and gor hold of the 1k ohm pot, I think it was about $3.00, cut a wire and soldered it in - maybe 10 minutes work - and manually dimmed the leds with the pot. Problem solved... EXCEPT the 1k ohm pot had NO effect on the digital voltmeter. Emailed Autometer in the US of A and they had no solution and indicated that a cobalt digital voltmeter cannot be dimmed using an external pot. So down to my local window tinter, asked for a few scraps of dark tint from his bin and took them home. 10 minutes later had cut a circular piece of tint and placed it on the gauge. Problem solved at night where it is just fine, however, during the day the tint does make it extremely dim and sometimes you actually can't see the readout which is actually not an issue to me.

"YELLOW/TEMP SENSOR CONNECT TO THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE..."? Are you sure its an oil temp gauge seeing as those instructions would apply to a water temp guage? And...have you done the boiling water trick? Sensor out, dip it in boiling water?

What Are These Colored Wires On My Electric Pressure Gauge For? Red = key on power supply Black = common chassis ground White (Cobalt, C2, Lunar, & NV series only) = dash lighting power Gray, Purple, & Black = communication between sender and gauge

Takes a fair while for oil to heat up but 15 minutes should be giving you a reading. As suggested pull the temp sensor out and into the boiling water which eliminates that as being the problem.

Most of the exhaust shops hit you up about $70.00 to fit a cat back system which is safer and easier than crawling around under the car.

Got one three weeks from Repco $42.00 whilst Autobarn wanted $83.00?