PHANTMXR6

More information is required to see if there may or may not be a problem. Is it at normal operating temp or cold. Do you drive like a hoon or a nanna. Is the tune you've got installed correct after all the mods that have been done. Manual or auto. If you were after an economical car you definately shouldn't have bought a turbo 6. 2000rpm in first gear or top gear. Road speed. All contributing factors in your cause mate.

Mate, the only place you can adjust your air fuel mixture is with a laptop. The wires may be correct, but the third one will need to go to a sensor.

Headlights, like tail lights, are non serviceable. I'm assuming it's still under warranty? Take it in and ask for a new headlight due to the fogging issue. I had the same problem with a TS Territory. New headlight fitted under warranty. Fixed.

Yeah I did panic a bit too for the first couple of tankfulls, but then worked out the fuel usage counter was reading accurately so I let it get down lower before filling it. Here's an example. Distance Til Empty (DTE) counter reads 0kms. Average Comsumption reads, for arguments sake, 17L/100kms. Fuel Consumed counter reads 51.3L. I fill up the tank and it only takes 52L. Not really rocket science but there is no way the tank is empty or anywhere near it. The next time. DTE reads 0kms. Average Consumption reads 17.2L/100kms. Fuel consumed counter reads 62.4L. ( I've done an extra 70-80kms since the DTE has read 0kms.) I fill up the tank and it takes 63L. I do this a few more times and the DTE gets a lot closer to what it should be. I've found the Fuel Consumed counter to be so accurate I don't even bother with it. I just go off fuel consumed and fill my car if it gets just over 60L.

I couldn't agree more with you on that one mate. I too owned a BA once. My new car is a marked improvement in all areas over the older models. As far as looks are concerned, people place too much emphasis on what they look like on the outside. How much of the exterior do you really look at when your driving anyway? Sorry, rant over, back on topic. I bought the boot lid liner from a dealer a couple of weeks ago. They don't come out on any of the Ford models. Only standard fare on the FPV's. You need to order 14 clips as well. I think I paid about $80-100 for the lot. Can't remember. Looks heaps better now and covers up the sound deadening material nicely.

I've had the same issue with mine since new. What I did was fueled up the car based on how much has been used on the dash readout. That one is almost spot on. My gauge and distance till empty readings are now a lot closer. What I did was run it down to 60litres used regardless of what the distance till empty readout was and the fuel guage for 3 tankfulls. It's now pretty much sorted.

De-badged FG Falcons look heaps better in my opinion.

I found the finish on mine to be inconsistant also. The spoiler, in certain light at certain angles, looks very blotchy. Some panels have a good finish and others not so good. I've also found a few spots in varying places that have inclusions in the paint. Almost like a small grain of sand has been dropped onto the surface and then painted. The other thing is the thickness of the coat. Extremely thin as usual. But with a coat of Nufinish it looks the part.

Unless you've checked your oil pressure with a manual guage I wouldn't be doing any kind of flush or oil change just yet. It could be as simple as an electrical fault or a dodgy sender/gauge. I'd be checking those things first before doing anything.

4357kms so far. Took delivery on the 8th of July.

05 TS RWD Territory. New one is FG XR6T manual. I drove my old car a couple of weeks after picking up my new one. Felt so old and dated.

Not waiting mate. All about timing. My nearest dyno is over 800kms away, so a bit of planning is required to get anything done. Not to mention the cost of getting there, staying there, getting stuff done and then getting home again. All in good time.

I reckon I'll be making a plastic panel out of something and removing the screen from the snorkel and just covering it with the new plastic panel. Have all cold air from in front of the radiator instead of some from the engine bay. I'll be fitting a K&N panel filter also, once they're available.

I don't think I'll be doing that as it's on the hot side of the engine bay. It'll be defeating the whole purpose if it's removed as most of the induction air will come straight from behind the thermo fans which will be hot as buggery. I'm just going to wait till I get it on the dyno and see what happens. Will keep you posted.

Not sure about the mesh your talking about. There is some sort of screen thingy on the outer housing of the snorkel, but it in no way filters or screens the incoming air. I can't really see what its purpose is to be honest. I had a mate of mine stand in front of the car about 10 feet away and free revved it and then held it on the launch control limiter for a couple of seconds before and after fitting the new sections and he reckons it sounded exactly the same. I'm really hoping there is an actual difference to rear wheel horespower or I'm gonna be p!ssed.

Sorry, cant find them. I posted them in another thread in here somewhere. Can't remember where but. How about a couple of my car for consolation....

I fitted the XR8 bottom section of the airbox and snorkel to mine. Don't know about gains yet as I don't have access to a dyno. Turbo whistle sounds slightly higher in pitch now though.

I had to take mine over the weighbridge to clarify the vehicle weight for rego. 1780kg with half a tank of fuel. Did you know- not anywhere on the car or in the owners manual or warranty book is the weight of the car. Quite odd I thought. I rang my dealer and they could only quote me a weight from a brochure and it was only for the XT poverty pack. What's up with that???

I've fitted custom number plates and had it debadged. The rear looks so much cleaner without badges. Blue ovals are still intact though. Got an XR8 inlet snorkel and bottom airbox section coming also.

Mine does the same. I don't think it's an issue though. It is probably well mounted with good rubber insulators to keep NVH down.

Sounds like Ford have heavily under quoted the T motors. The few that have been posting figures have all been above 220rwkw. Not bad considering the engines are supposed to be only putting out 270kw.

Fair call. I won't get the chance to do a before and after dyno run as I don't have access to one. After I fit mine the next ime I'm near a dyno, I'll get a power run recorded and post it up.

Hopefully this link works. Edit:Not now it wont...spritzing the sponsor of another site...

Forced induction past the compressor is a fair call, but to get it too the compressor is a different set of physics. The larger the inlet diameter to the compressor wheel on the turbo the less the turbo has to work for the same result. Why do you think so many drag cars run bellmouthes straight off the compressor cover on a turbo. Less resistance right. If it didn't matter so much then the previous xr6t and the FPV F6 intake system would be the same yeah? Not really. The less restriction the more power. Simple physics.

Yep. Probably more induction rooar and blow off valve noise. Heaps bigger inlet to the airbox. Must be better. And I'm not sure if it's the same as a GT airbox either. They say it's an XR8 airbox and snorkel section.