PHANTMXR6

Ok. My turn. I've done 6400kms in mine and have also noticed a couple of noises coming from the gearbox/clutch area. Firstly the 1st and 2nd gear noise. I could hear this and it got slightly louder after the first 3-4000kms. More noticeable when the oil was up to operating temp than cold. It was definately gear whine as I expected the gear teeth to 'bed in' for the first couple of thousand kms anyway. It only got to a certain degree of loudness, for choice of a better description, and didn't get any worse. Ok, I thought, lets try changing the trans oil when I get a service done at 5000kms. I didn't know that the trans actually ran Dexron III auto trans fluid in it, until it got serviced either. Anyway. New oil was put in it and the noise is still there, but it is ever so faint that you can't actually hear it unless you know what you are listening for. I've asked people that I have taken for a drive to see if they can notice a noise and no one can. I believe the noise to be an engineering fault that may never be completely eradicated. Besides, for the box to handle 500+nm of torque all the time everything needs to be reasonably heavy duty. Noise will always be a byproduct. Secondly the clutch noise when engaging and disengaging. I can't prove it but judging by pedal feel and noise I reckon it's the hydraulicly actuated thrust bearing assembly contacting the fingers of the clutch. I've tried engaging and disengaging in neutral slowly and then rapidly and you can hear the 'bite' when doing it rapidly. Once again, I believe this to be a noise by design, not fault. My mind is at ease with the transmission for now as it gets a fair bit of grunt put through it. If a noise that doesn't sound quite right starts to appear then further investigation will take place.

I've used an Odyssey battery in the past. Slightly lower than the standard battery and about three times the weight. 17.1kg if I recall, but 1000cca. Only downside was the cost. I nearly didn't buy it due to the $350 price tag, but glad I did in the long run.

Depends what you class as a 'mid priced' battery. If it's having trouble starting after a few short drives it won't matter what battery you put in it, it will still suffer the same consequences. If you have a decent sound system that is drawing more current out of your battery than your alternator can put back in then you need to upgrade your alternator. I'd be looking at the alternator first if I was you.

Kice. It's been more than two weeks mate. Where's the pics??

Not always obvious to some people. I can't remember where I read it, but some dude couldn't work out why his exhaust tip was so hot!

Take it from me mate she's pretty loud. I've got mine hooked up with both plumb back and atmospheric ports and even under normal boost you get a big psssh. Get one and try it. If you don't think it's loud enough block the plumb back port and let everything out the other. There are pictures on here somewhere, can't remember where but, of a guy with a Kompact series dual port fitted to the factory position. Mine is but I don't have any pics. Fits snug as the factory one and is even black so it sort of looks normal.

Good luck with that one mate. Your best bet would be to ring around a few tyre shops and ask for advice.

My tyre pressures weren't checked until after about 2000kms. It was one of the things I overlooked due to being so overwhelmed with everything else that is the FG XR6T. After I collected my composure though, I did check and they were all 34psi. Not too bad I thought, and then I checked the sticker on the glovebox. The recommended pressures seemed a bit low for my liking. I recently did a 1600km round trip for a service and dyno reading and upped the pressure to 36psi for the trip. Having rotated my tyres after the trip and now having 6400kms on board, I can say that running 36psi seems good for me. There is no signs of any wear anywhere on the tyres in any position, which I'm pleased about. Just a question for some that may not know, but your are checking your tyre pressures first thing in the morning when they are cold right? I've found up to a 5psi variation from checking them cold and then running them for say 10-20kms and checking them again. Cold inflation pressures are the best to check and adjust as air does strange things when heated.

It is, but if you don't like the dual ports it also comes with a plug for the atmospheric discharge port. Plug that up and you have a plumb back. What are you after exactly.

Quite comfortable actually. Road and wind noise was at a more than acceptable level. I've got a stretch of road that is approx 8kms in length and is dead straight and flat. No cars coming in either direction. It wasn't a very breezy day either and I would imagine a little bit of movement with wind at those speeds though. I have complete confidence in my car at that speed due to the tyres being very grippy, brakes were acceptable when used ( normally just coast down to highway speed from high speed ) in my opinion, but the biggest thing is how confident as a driver you feel and the confidence you have in your car. As for me, I have that confidence.

Mate, that is a Kompact Supersonic. The part number is FG-BOV-KTDP25.

I've had mine up to 230. It stops dead there though. Not sure if the limiter can be removed with a tune. I had an EL XR8 that had no limit on the speed. It did have an active speed sensor open circuit fault on it though. The speedo went to 220 and I saw the needle past that on a couple of occassions.

What mesh?? There is no mesh on the front of the intake. There is a gauze type material approx. 200mm x 100mm on the bottom of the snorkel but I left it right where it is as it doesn't hinder airflow at all. As for the air filter, stock as a rock. I was kind of expecting a reasonable gain due to the massive difference in snorkel diameter and hole diameter into the bottom of the airbox. If you ever get to see the two side by side you'll understand what I mean.

Nothing else done except a service on the way up in Katherine. If there was a dyno in Katherine I wouldn't have gone to Darwin, but had no choice. Yeah I'm pretty happy with the results. Puts my mind at ease now I know what the starting figure is, and in hot weather. I know I've got a good one and going by the info I got from the dyno, there's a heap of room for improvement just in the fuel mapping alone. We were seeing air/fuel ratios as low as 10:1 as early as 3000rpm!! For now though it's just sit back and enjoy the ride and start fitting my stereo gear. Now that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish.

Finally. Had my car dyno'd last week. 242.6rwkW standard. I then fitted the lower section of the XR8 airbox and snorkel. End result saw 253.9rwkW. No tuning and on 95ron premium with ambient temps of 33 and 34 degrees C.

Not tuned yet and probably won't for a while but it made 242rwkW on normal 95ron. I fitted the XR8 bottom airbox section and snorkel and then made 253rwkW. No tune and ambient temps of 32 degrees +

You won't be able to unless you wire in a usb headunit.

No F6 Typhoon came out with 315kw standard. The FG F6, however, came out standard with 310kw. The FGXR6T came out with a smaller impellor on the turbo and the F6 uses the same turbo as the BA/BF. Injectors and intercooler are of a larger capacity on the F6 also. I'm not sure about the exhaust system either. It may be larger on the F6.

I wouldn't worry too much about the 'accidental' pushing of the traction control button. You need to hold it down for approx 1 second for it to change. The power button for the stereo looks like any normal power button on a tv or stereo remote control. The little round symbol with a stroke in the top of it. The drive becomes easier with more experience behind the wheel too. I found mine drove like a loaded gun, when I first got it. Throttle control. It's all about throttle control. Once you learn how the power curve works in relation to throttle position it becomes much more enjoyable.

Can't help you there mate. Maybe Kice might be able to point you in the right direction.

That all depends on how much gear you want. If you want to do the same as I'm doing with a complete stand alone system then any Pioneer or Alpine deck should suffice. Same for the speakers. Just buy what you can afford with the most accessories fitted. But, if you want to start looking at subs and amps be prepared to spend a bit more.

Any update on the airfilter yet?

The cost is irelevent. It all depends if you do the homework yourself or you take your car to someone and tell them what you want and let them sell you something. My $3-4k price was based on a few things. 1. My headunit and cab speakers were bought new off ebay. Headunit was $350 delivered, front splits $190 deliverd, rear co-ax $130 delivered. Last time I checked the respective components were $699, $289 and $179 and that's not including delivery. Quick calculation I saved nearly $500. 2. I'm using an old MRV-1507 amp from a previous system which I paid $1250 for back in the day. 3. My Type R 10' DVC subs were $349 each when they were purchased. 4. Sound deadener. By the time I finish I probably would have spent somewhere between $200-500. 5. Cables and distribution blocks approx $250. 6. I haven't decided if I'm going to upgrade the battery yet, but if I do it will probably be to an Odyseey or Optima. I'm guessing here, but somewhere in the region of $2-300. 7. Subwoofer box and amp rack. Combination of MDF and fibreglass. Somewhere in the region of $2-500 including trimmings. 8. And I'm doing it all myself without any door or panel modification (albeit fitment of the head unit to the centre lower section of the dash) so I'll be saving a heap in labour cost and learning about my car as well as enjoying the experience. ( This will be my third full custom install by myself. ) But, if you take into account the already aquired components then the outlay is more like $2-3k. Some audio shops can pass extra costs onto other customers to make up the short fall for doing it cheaper on other cars. Car dealers do the same. I bought an Alpine roof mounted screen and DVD headunit for my last car and had it installed for a quoted price. When I picked the car up the guy behind the counter told me when I was quoted the salesman at the time had stuffed up and I should have been charged a lot more to have it installed. End result due to their stuff up was they only made 1.5% profit on the job. He showed me on his computer. I guess in summary you can look at it in two ways. Value of components and install or cost of components and install. I know from past experience with Alpine equipment that if installed correctly the outcome is a pleasurable audio experience. Sorry if it apears as if I've hijacked the thread.

You don't have to spend that much to have half decent sound. I just like good quality sound and I enjoy doing my own installs and work. But, you only get what you pay for. I bought most of my gear from ebay in the states. Saved heaps.

Full stand alone system independent of the factory setup. All Alpine. iPod headunit R type 5 1/4 splits in the front doors. R type co-ax 5 1/4 in the rear door 2 10" type R DVC subs ALpine V-power amp for the cab speakers Alpine MRV-1507 2 channel for the subs. Lots of good cables and fuses. Removal of the factory sub on the parcel tray to allow for a port to breathe from the boot. All work done by myself. Sound deadening throughout the cab and the boot. I'll be cutting the guts out of the factory speakers so I can use the frames to mount my new speakers. I'll post up pics as I go. Cost for all hardware is in the vicinity of about $3-4k. I'll probably save about $1-1.5--k by doing it all myself.