PHANTMXR6

Mine laid 242rwkW standard. Which equates to approx 295kw at the flywheel using a 22% drivetrain loss. My 242rwkW equates to approx 324hp at the wheels. 295 flywheel kilowatts equates to approx 395 horsepower. 1.34 horsepower to a kilowatt.

Anyone know how much power the new FG clutch is good for?

Do it mate. It'll keep more music in and more noise out. You'll get less 'tinny' vibration noises from your doors and the sound quality will be better. I'd be doing the footwells and behind the seats also. Hell, I'd rip the whole interior out and do the lot in one hit. A ute's not so bad as a sedan. Less surface area. I don't know if Dynamat is the answer though. There are a lot of products on the market that do just as good a job, yet cost a fair bet less. Have a search on ebay and you'll find what you need.

According to an article I read on Simon from Xtreme Ford Tuning the pistons are forged items in the new F6. The latest issue of Perth Street Car has an article on his car and it lists the conrods as billet items and the pistons are forged.

That would make sense considering the new F6 has different internals to the old one. Billet conrods and forged pistons have been reported as standard fare in the new F6 also.

Not sure on the bottom ends. Haven't seen anything written anywhere about it. I would doubt they'd pull BF gear off the shelf if FG components are having issues. They'd still be making excess components as parts, I would have thought.

Sounds like warranty to me.

New head design as well. New block casting with different engine mount positions. All plumbing, intake and exhaust and intercooler. ECU mapping is different as well. If you do a search you'll find all the info your after.

On your advice mate, I did. Didn't think it sounded right. I got quoted $565 for a full set. Part number BAT6K100BKT. Comes in standard and 0.50 O/S. I'd be checking your source. Who in their right mind would be paying $1100 for one piston, let alone a whole set.

I hope you've got proof to back up that statement. You sure it wasn't for the whole set?

Your not really making much sense in what you're asking for/ stating in your post mate. The cooling fans are for the engine coolant and airconditioning system. Nothing to do with the transmission cooler. The trans cooler will be integrated into the radiator, unless there is an upgraded after market cooler fitted to your car. As 03XR6T has said, an aftermarket trans cooler will be more beneficial to your needs. When you say you've got a 'bigger transmission fan cooling system' on it's way, what components do you actually have coming?

Is it manual or auto. If manual, have you checked out your clutch? Could be worth checking. Have you had the rocker cover off and checked all the rockers and componentry? I wouldn't be pulling anything down just yet. Check everything out before you even think about a stripdown. Is there any noticable loss in power anywhere across the rev range? Is it more noticable when it's hot or cold? Have you tried unplugging the VCT plugs on the end of the camshaft actuators and having a listen? Have you run it on a dyno and had everything checked out as far as air/fuel ratios, boost pressure etc?

Great result for the day, but for crying out loud, would you morons learn how to spell and speak English! We do speak English here, and not text, don't we? Use google if you can't speak English, it helps. Rant over.

There's one for sale on ebay that states 'will bolt on to a 4lt motor . fuel rail will require some minor mods and an adaptor made for throttle body.' So I'm guessing that they do.

I don't think it's quite that much, but rule of thumb is around 22% drivetrain loss. You lose power through your transmission and diff.

GO AND GET IT TUNED.

The fact of the matter is you are only going to be good at launching, and driving for that matter, with practice. Joe Bloggs might say 'Try this and that and you should be alright'. Or. If you dump your clutch at xyz revs you should be ok. It all comes down to practice and knowing how your car reacts to the different inputs you give it. I know I can't drive my car for s*&t with shoes on. I've always driven a car barefoot because you have the best feeling through your feet when they aren't covered. When I drive with shoes on I miss smoothe shift points, good clutch take up when starting off from a standstill and so on. Just go out and practice mate. Just don't try too hard or you might end up damaging something. Good luck.

Ummm. What do you class as a 'normal car'??

Manual 3.73 Auto 2.73 From Ford Australia website specifications page, Power & Performance.

I wouldn't bother with the fibreglass ones unless you plan on not driving your car on the road. Not legal.

Fair enough. If your happy with the result no worries. My not noticing any additional induction noise could be due to the fact I drive with my windows up at all times. I can't comment on the blow off valve noise as I have a Turbosmart blow off valve. This thread was started asking whether or not the larger lower section of the airbox and snorkel from the V8 induction system made an increase in power to the XR6T. I think the question has been answered.

Nice work mate. The only thing I'd do differently is replace the screws with pop rivets and washers. If one of those screws comes out at high speed on the track, let alone the open road, there could be all sorts of dramas with your tyres. Food for thought.

Mate, I'd get my ears checked if I were you. I din't notice any reasonable difference to exhaust note, intake whistle or 'push back' into the seat. Your original post stated you don't care how much more power you get, you just want more induction sound. If this is the case, I doubt you will achieve it with these components alone. I'm not so sure I agree with your statement of ' I can only feel a little difference down low'. If you refer back to my dyno chart you can see that up until approx 3800rpm there is pretty much nothing in it. Only after about 4000rpm there is a rise in power. I wouldn't exactly class this as down low. However, each car will have it's own characteristics and as I don't know what sort of ambient temps or fuel you're using your comments could be very well founded. As for your exhaust note. Huh?? How would your exhaust sound any different if you didn't do anything to it? :o

Not quite. It actually peaked at 12.9 psi and quite regularly saw as much as 12.5 psi. I put this boost pressure down to the new overboost function associated with the FG. It actually droped down to around the 6 psi mark on most of the the runs.

I think everyone experiencing some noise or other from their gearbox is probably the same issue. Different people compare it to different noises but in essence the noise is the same thing. One thing I haven't tried yet, but will next service, is changing the oil to a synthetic oil.