What the F&%^ is that. Please excuse my ignorance for speaking english, but could you translate that for me? And, could you give me an example of where you would use that in a sentence when speaking to someone? Sorry to rant, but it gets on my nerves when people expect other people to know what your saying when you don't write what your saying. Rant off.
On the contrary. You will get a loud pssssh from your turbosmart BOV, but there will be minimal 'dose' noise. If you block the atmospheric port on the turbosmart you will slightly here the 'dose' noise. If you completely remove the BOV and blank off all the ports you get a much louder 'dose' noise. Been there, tried all the different combinations with the turbosmart BOV and factory components. Loudest psssh was with the turbosmart, loudest 'dose' without any BOV.
I'm not going to do the leg work, but there is a full description on this forum somewhere, from Simon at Nizpro explaining what the blow off valve is for and how it will not affect your turbo by not having one. If your not sure do a search and find the answers as I'm not going to explain it. Happy researching. OK so I had aquick look and this should explain it. Read post #17' http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=24608
For anyone interested in making a louder 'dose' noise on their FG XR6T, all you have to do is remove the blow off valve and plug all three hoses and drive away.
Depends which model. My car's redline/limit, or hard cut, depends what you want to call it, is 6500rpm. As senna_T said, there's not much point revving past 5500rpm due to the fact your past your maximum power and torque level.
I doubt it as he states the noise is there when engaging and disengaging the clutch at idle. I'm also assuming he's doing it in neautral otherwise the noise may well just be normal backlash.
I'm going to be trying full synthetic trans oil next change to see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't then I'm happy to live with it. The other extreme alternative is to gut the car and apply copious quantities of noise suppression material to all panels.
I think you'll find that is quite normal for the tailshaft to move that much. If you've got movement at every connection,eg the uni's, then I'd be concerned. It's called backlash and every car has it. Pumping your clutch pedal at idle won't really affect your tailshaft that much if it's in neutral either. Most of the noise you will hear from pumping the clutch pedal is the clutch and thrust bearing assembly.
Not sure if you know but you can't have a flex plate and a flywheel on the same engine. Flex plate if it's an auto or flywheel if it's a manual. If it's a manual, could it be the thrust bearing assembly? If it's an auto, could be loose convertor to flexplate mounting bolts. Need some more info to try and work out what it is mate. Have you checked out the exhaust system? eg. loose heat shields.
If you're considering it, do it I say. I bought one and fitted it to my car and was worth an extra 11rwkW. I don't think it will fit the BA/BF series due to different sizing/geometry.
Expect whatever your tuner sets it up for. If your worried about your gearbox, let your tuner know and he won't set it up with such an aggressive tune. It also depends on what sort of aftermarket components you have fitted.
Most of what you have quoted is correct. You don't have to have your foot on the brake for it to work. It is a manual gearbox only feature. The engine is not under load as you have the clutch depressed so it is free spinning. It's electronically limited to 3500rpm. If you just drop the clutch you will bog it. Need to slightly feather it until the clutch has fully engaged then release the pedal fully to disengage launch control and reinstate full power. No previous models were released from the factory with this function.