PHANTMXR6

Easy. Look at the parts per million, or ppm for short, count on the sample report. When you get an oil sample it will list all the metals and their ppm if applicable. When you keep sampling the same compartment, eg. engine, you will see a trend with the ppm either going up or down. Normally, depending on how frequently you sample, you will see a high ish reading of your wear metals for the first couple of samples if the compartment is new or rebuilt. This is due to running in of components inside the compartment. After a while the ppm count should drop. If it rises there may be a problem that needs looking into. When I get some time I'll post a copy of my oil sample report and that should explain it a bit clearer.

It 'kinda' can't be called anything other than what it is marked out of the factory. Therefore there was no Ba mk1 or Bf mk1. The Au series specifically named an Au series 3.

Don't remove your heat shielding. It's there for a reason. If you plan on getting a cat now, plan on a tune as well. You can't just upgrade the cat without it or you'll run the risk of engine failure.

Errr, what drivetrain light? Sounds like your throttle body or tps might be sticking.

Could be a loose shock absorber, sway bar. You need to get under it and have a look and a feel of a few things. You didn't mention whether it was coming from the front or the rear. Also, was it under acceleration or decelaration? More info required.

My choice of oil also. Sin 15, that is. I've done over 6000kms on it and a total of over 10000kms on the car. Three oil samples later and all wear metals are trending down. Good oil.

Why would you need a megger to run a simple resistance test? It's possible to do this with any run of the mill multi meter.

I don't think adding octane booster to your tank is going to raise the entire tank to a '102-103 Ron' rating. Is your car modded and tuned to run on some other type of fuel? If so, do you have a tune you can upload to accommodate the lower rated fuel? If your not sure, get a tank full of 95ron fuel, add your octane booster and take it for a run on the dyno and see what happens.

BA, BA Mk2 BF, BF Mk2 And the only FG is exactly that. Not a Mk1.

How come your listing the models with a Mk1. They were never called Mk1's.

Yep. Kice or Djkice. Can't remember his login name on this forum. He's done his car.

I don't think it does mate.

What colour is the smoke? If it's black, it might be running rich, like seventytwo said. But if it's white or blue it could be oil smoke. Need to keep an eye on it.

If it's that expensive don't bother. Spend your money on some exhaust lagging tape and stainless band-it clamps. It will do the same job and save you money.

What leak from the block? I've done 10000kms and haven't got any leaks anywhere.

Mate, get some grammar happening so your posts make sense. If both the rear tyres are wearing in the same spot and you say it was lowered when you picked it up, I'd take it back if I was you and get it sorted.

270 you say. Prove it.

I'd be investigating a bit more. More along the lines of is my water pump siezed? Pulleys don't just fail like that, and being a plastic pulley I'd suggest a more than dramatic failure as the belt has rubbed through the pulley before it failed. As for cost. Maybe a new water pump, belt, pulley and fitting costs.

Thanks Benny. I'm not going mad. Yours is in the exact same spot as mine. I think I might have caught mine a bit earlier than you though judging by your pics. Mine looks a bit ugly due to having to mould it back in slightly for clearance. It's not as pliable as it looks either. My only concern now is where it rubs on the cold side of the intercooler tube running up to the throttle body. I'm thinking of putting some soft foam or some other material in between the snorkel and the tube to try and minimise chaff.

I'd be checking your throttle body work. Maybe something is still in there and the butterfly keeps getting stuck. Or maybe it could be the Throttle Position Sensor. Ain't got nothing to do with the clutch or the gearbox mate.

Hey guys, here's a pic of mine. It looks ugly but it's functional and doesn't hit the belt any more. I've circled the positions on the snorkel that the belt has touched and are now clearanced. I've also circled a section at the top of the snorkel that needed doing as well. It was touching the heater pipe that came out of the thermostat housing.

Speaking of K&N, there is a full page add on page 71 of the latest Motor magazine with a new GT on it and no other car. I hope they release the airfilter for it soon.

The only other thing it could be is that mine is a manual. Maybe the manual equipped cars torque the engine over more on decelleration due to the direct link. The convertor in the auto would probably take a lot of the harshness out of it.

Sorry guys, maybe I didn't explain it properly. At rest everything looks fine. Under hard acceleration the engine will torque over to one side. When you step off the loud pedal the belt will get a bit of a whip in it as the engine drops off revs. This whip is what will be hitting the snorkel if you don't clearance it properly. If you haven't done any clearancing on the snorkel yet, give it a hundred kms or so then look at the side of the snorkel.

Hey guys. Don't want to burst your bubble or anything, but unless you clearance the snorkel to the drive belt it will touch it under accelerationa and leave belt dust and rubber everywhere on the front of the engine. Once you've fitted the snorkel look closely down the side of it and you'll see how close it is to the belt before you even start the car. What you need to do is remove it and get a hot air gun, or maybe a hair drier that puts out some heat, and depress the sections that are close to the belt to give it more clearance. That way you won't have to worry about a belt failure.