PHANTMXR6

Lurv the Prodigy clip. Thanks for the trip down memory lane Spiko.

I don't have that ratio fitted, but I reckon if you wanted to it would be because you love rowing the gearbox.

Ford will have it as a pdf, but it will be watermarked with the users details.

I have one question. What is your budget?

The mesh can be removed, but all you will be doing is allowing hot air into the intake. If you remove it, you would be better off covering it with some plastic that has been formed and glued in place, or just leave it as is.

The second picture is the underside of the airfilter. It is visible in that airbox due to the larger opening. The mesh on the snorkel of the v8 variety is for noise suppression more than anything else. Not that it does much though.

How do you come to this conclusion? If blowby does not put oil in the turbo then where does it come from? The only way the 'tappet cover' gets pressurised is by blowby........and not just from valve stem seals. If it was driven softly for the first 6000kms then there is a fair chance the bores are glazed, which will cause blowby. jgxr, do you have any pictures you could post of these leaks?

Not that I'm aware of.

I have a copy. If you want one, you can purchase one of ebay reasonably cheap. Or you can PM me for the specific info you are after and I can see what I can do.

This is for the FG. Before starting the job, ensure the engine is cool and the area to be worked on is free of debris and contaminants. I can't give an indication of tool sizes as I haven't done the job, but will give a guide as per the workshop manual. 1. Relieve fuel system residual pressure. This can be done by removing the fuel pump relay and running the car for a while. 2. Remove intake air ducting. 3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the tops of each injector. Be careful as these may be brittle depending on age. 4. Disconnect fuel supply and return lines from the rail ensuring they are marked for correct orientation. 5. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the fuel pressure regulator. 6. Disconnect the wiring loom from the fuel rail. 7. Remove the retaining screws from the brackets that attach the fuel rail to the inlet manifold. 8. Remove the injector to fuel rail retaining clips on each injector and remove. You should be able to remove the rail completely and each injector now. Installation is the reverse of removal. When fitting new injectors a light smear of engine oil on the o-ring will do as lubrication. DON'T use any form of Vaseline or petroleum jelly as this can cause all sorts of greif. The torque for the rail to manifold brackets is 19Nm. Happy injectoring.

Umm, funny......not. Being realistic though, a standard body shaped, ( no fancy carbon this carbon that) Falcon would be at it's limits, as APS found out many years ago. The question remains......Why has no one tried a top speed run in any Falcon since?? Just quietly, I reckon the answer is in the aerodynamics.....and really, where would you use it??

The part number I was given for the new style rear bush is 8R2Z-4B425-AA I hope this clears up the missing detail. The number was supplied by a Ford tech from AFF.

It may affect fuel economy due to the engine possibly thinking it is still in cold mode. Maybe a tuner can confirm this though.

Is it backfiring or just feeling like it is dropping powere on and off again? Could be a bad batch of fuel.

An FG short will be a mismatch to a BF head. Lower compression pistons in the FG will create an even lower compression ratio with the BF head fitted. Either go whole hog or nothing. But as riki said, Kice's long motor would be a good buy.

Possibly not needed considering it's a catback system. But for best results, a tune would be par for the course.

2 purposes. 1. To aid in holding the piston down when running boost. 2. When you lift your foot off the throttle the manifold will go into vacuum and that vacuum will aid in pulling the piston in the BOV up. If the vacuum line is blocked nothing will happen as it is just a line from the manifold. If you want, you could remove it altogether and block the nipple on the manifold.

Did you read the very last line right on the bottom of the page?

Without looking at it from the end, I would say it is just an exhaust port that is covered by a cap to keep contamination out. I wouldn't twist it too much or it may drop off or break.

Best to do some homework first colossus. Untuned you run the risk of leaning out the engine and that could lead to expensive engine repair. I wouldn't be boosting anywhere if I was you.

Did you get it retuned after you fitted the cooler?

Not anymore. Blew it all on the dodgy paint job....

I thought factory orange peel paint was bad. For a respray that is shocking.

If you put enough in it should work it's way through everything.

The best analogy I can come up with is, imagine a piece of chewing gum between your thumb and index finger. Press your finger and thumb together and apart a few times and it has a certain resistance. As the gum gets colder the resistence increases. Now imagine the gum is your boost solenoid. As it get's older the internal components get stickier with blowby oil and create more resistence. A squirt of WD40 or crc is lubricating those sticky components thus reducing the resistence. Make sense?