PHANTMXR6

Meh. Sounds like there's no point in naming anything these days. The masses just decide what they want to call it anyway.

I know it's a Hella part because it says Hella on it. Smartass Rick.

In the cab. The main pedal pivot above where the master cylinder is mounted. In your picture you can see a spring above the master cylinder. Spray some in that pivot point and see how you go.

Guys, does anyone know what the Hella part number is for the high beam globe adaptors for the FG? It's a small black plastic adaptor that basically extends the mounting depth of the globe. Any ideas?

Nah, it should get better the more it's used if it's lubed. I'd be doing all the pivot points as the noise may well be coming from somewhere else.

Same response as the other forum mate. Give it a squirt with some slippery stuff.

As the title suggests. I see the new 5.0 engine referred to as a Coyote more often than not and can only wonder why this is? Ford spent millions on the base Coyote to build the Miami, yet everywhere I look I see reference to Coyote. Seems backwards to me. Anyone else have the same sentiments?

Mate, no offence, but it doesn't sound like you're too mechanically savy. You should take it to a mechanic and fill them in on the details and get it diagnosed properly.

Did it start to run rough, like it was cutting cylinders? If not, then I would suspect it didn't go into limp mode, but see if there are any fault codes logged for excess water temperature. That should give you some indication.

Your selling because of money issues? Shouldn't have spent so much on your car. haha Mate, not to sound negative, but I think your price might be a tad on the high side. Good luck either way though.

When depressing the clutch pedal the clicking noise you are referring to sounds like the reverse lock out solenoid. Try this. With the ignition on depress the clutch and then release it. If you hear the clicking sound, that will be the reverse lockout solenoid. perfectly normal. The slight clunk you are referring to when engaging reverse may be a sign of slight synchro wear. If it worries you, ask them to change the gearbox oil to a synthetic fluid and ensure they use 4.85L of oil and not what is written in the owners handbook as that figure is for the V8 model and not the I6.

And it will reduce noise transfer from the rear of the car through the boot.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a cheaper alternative. If the preparation work is done correctly the outcome is the same. If you like paying for the brand name then go right ahead, but there are alternatives that do the same job for a fraction of the price. I bought the cheaper stuff off ebay and 2 years later it's all still stuck on and no sign of any peeling.

More synchros in the TR6060. Shoot Mal Wood a PM. He will more than likely be able to give you the exact details.

Which model?

Nice. Thanks Veva.

I had to make the hole large enough for the socket to go through. Probably 11/4" from memory. The old bush was shagged so it was destroyed with a chisel to get it out completely. I left the new bush in the freezer for about 4 hours before I fitted it. There is just enough room between the cradle and the spare wheel well to get the bush started in the hole. I used a bit of a drift to get it in most of the way before it expanded and got real tight. I then just used a longer bolt packed with large flat washers to pull the bush in. I had to use some spacers on the front bushes due to trying to pull the whole diff rearward when pulling the rear bush in. I just kept adding flat washers and giving it a couple of blunt whacks with a hammer everytime it got tight until it was seated all the way home. I removed the pull in bolt and refitted the factory bolt. Everything was torqued to spec and a grommet fitted to thespare wheel well. Piece of cake really. It would have been easier if I had access to a hoist to get to a more user friendly height, but I didn't, so I just got the car raised as high as I could on jack stands. All up I think it took me and a mate about 4 hours to do. I need to it again as the second one has collapsed, but this time I'll be droppping the cradle as I have a heap of bushes I will be replacing at the same time to try and get some extra life out of it. Talk to Pat, aka senna_T. He'll be able to fill you in on the parts he sold me to get rid of the tramp and a price. Good service and good products to match.

Why is there no engine shot? Sounds like an RB to me. Got any pics or links to engine bay shots?

You don't have to drop the craddle to replace the bush if your drilling a hole in the spare wheel well either. That's what I did the first time I replaced mine.

Stiffer springs and Bilsteins will cure it. That's what I did to mine to stop it. If it has been doing it for a while as bad as you describe I'd be checking the rear diff bush for failure. It doesn't take much for them to collapse in the FG.

Expect there to be that much and potentially more until your engine is properly run in. The service schedule calls for the intake pipework to be cleaned every 15k service as well. I just removed all mine and cleaned it with some degreraser. Dry before refitting and look forward to the next service. If it is just a small amount it sould be fine, but keep an eye on it as there has been a couple of cases of cartridge seal failure which leads to a lot more oil being dispoced intot he pipework.

Bugger. Lucky it didn't do more damage.

Some say Nizpro are expensive, but you get what you pay for. As a package, they make a great product with service to match. Give Simon a call and talk to them.

Worn rings, worn bore, high boost just to name a few. A catch can is a good idea to keep things clean.

Lucky to hang on to it. :msm: