PHANTMXR6

Removing said bolts should see the cover come off. If you were to remove the shaft and the wheels, then the circlip, the inner cover/plate will come off.

noise

I'm running Kumho KU31's on my car. They are a 245/35R19 and are leaps and bounds in front of the stock 18" rubber. They are a lot quieter, more predictable and were cheap. I landed a set of 4 tyres in northern WA from a dealer in Sydney for around the $1200 mark. My local tyre shop couldn't buy them for what I paid. I haven't done many kms on them yet, around 5-800, but they are good so far. Food for thought.

What you need to identify first is how much money you want to spend and then start shopping. A private sale will always net you more than a trade. Start looking around on sites such as carsales.com and the like to get a better understanding of what your car may be worth and what you may be looking at in terms of outlay for an upgrade.

And........ Group buy? lol

You guys have obvious inside information. Please share with us.....

Not sure if this is new or not but I'm throwing it out there. Just curious what type of upload/download speed people are used to, and their average upload/download usage while looking into this site. I can't measure the rate whilst I'm at work, but personal use is a bit different. Personnaly I'm committed to a Telstra NextG 21 wireless modem for my net connection. I don't have an issue with it, just the after sales service, but for a wireless device, in the limited option area that I live in, it does the job. It's the best download/upload rate I've seen since I've had the device.

USA!

Anyone closer to an FG manual availability?

It's closer to 3500rpm for launch control. Yes if you side step the clutch it will bog and then go but to get the launch control system to work to your advantage you will need to modulate the clutch pedal until you get going. It takes a bit of practice but once you get it sorted it is a good thing. Downside is you will get axle tramp with the stock suspension. Better springs and shocks will cure it but nevertheless there is still finess involved in getting the system to work in your favour. Not sure how much the stock clutch will handle either.

If you like throwing money away, send some over to the west coast.

Thanks for filling in the blanks Steve. I may have confused flickering with glaring in senna_T's HID sticky.

What brand, flow rate, cost is involved in the aftermarket options Chris? What would you recommend for somewhere in the vicinity of 350-450rwkW?

I read something in another HID thread about 50w globes being more flickery or glarey. I think it's in senna's HID sticky in the electrical section.

So my post was as helpful as yours. Sorry PAH. Good luck though.

If you get the 55w in anything I bet they flicker and give you the sh!ts.

Is he not able to search the forum like all the other members to find the many threads covering this topic?

Pretty sure they're the same, but here's a pic of 1 and 3.

35w will suffice. 50w will flicker too much.

It will all depend on how much of a ransom a wrecker charges for the required components to make the change over. With an aftermarket manifold in the $1000ish+ price bracket (or thereabouts) a used FG manifold may be a cheaper option. But Spoolman has run a 10 with a factory B series manifold so one would question why?

Never send a woman to do a mans job. lol

Don't bother mate. If you want a bit of bass then you'll need to box a sub for the boot. The 8" on the shelf is just a paperweight.

Not quite the same head. Same mounting flange design and stub pattern. The FG inlet manifold will fit a B series head, but there are a few things that are different and need modification to get it to work properley. Kev pretty much sumed it up here http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/findpost-t58056-p926608.html

Either way, it's relatively cheap insurance to have one.

Just out of curiosity kice, how much more does Simon reckon the stock FG bottom end is good for reliably before it needs to be beefed up?