PHANTMXR6

Front seal of the gearbox? If that's the case then it's box out and reseal. No real biggy. As long as you didn't drive it too far after it dumped it's guts. Would the blown hose have been one of the trans cooler lines running to the radiator or cooler?

Don't bother, you'd be wasting your time. You can use the cables that go to the factory sub as line level inputs into a decent amp, but running a 12 off the factory amp will not work to your expectations. smicky may be a long shortly with a list of combinations depending on how much money you want to spend. By the sounds of things you'll need to get it installed professionally as well.

Anyone what? Add a suggestion......

It is indeed. It's 12 gauge cable that I will have running from the amps to the crossovers for the front splits, and straight into the rear speakers. I think I'll be using 10 gauge for the subs. The cable I used for the tweeters was the Alpine cable that came with the sest. I used the Alpine supplied cable from the crossover to the midbass speakers also.

Try Mal Wood. He's a site sponser and offers a great product. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/findpost-t62338-p940556.html

Yes. If you can remove it and take pictures of the turbine and the compressor.

Strange description indeed. Best bet would be to bring the whole turbo. If it's repairable it may be cheaper than a new one. Got any pictures of the turbo that you can upload? It would be easier to try and explain if you have pictures as your description is confusing.

The Xcal3 also gives the ability to read and clear any fault codes that are active or logged in the ECU. Essentially it's a flash tuner and a code reader all in one.

Could be a short or an open circuit starting to happen somewhere. It may be intensified after some 'spirited' driving when heat increases.

:tosser:

You'll need a coat hanger, some quality cable to go through the door to the midbass, cable ties, a lot of patience and some luck. lol Just joking, it's not that bad, but it can be a bit frustrating. When I did mine I ran new cable into the door through the rubber boot that goes through the door jam. It can be frustrating to get the plugs out of both the door and the side of the body but it can be done. Trace your factory wiring back from the speaker through the door jam into the cab and pull it all back inside the car. This will be your signal to the crossover. But before you pull it back through the door jam, solder the new cable to the end of it and pull it through. This will save you heaps of time and swear words instead of running it from the inside out. This cable will go from your midbass to the crossover. You then need to pull the side panel off the dash to run the cable for the tweeter up behind the sail panel. Connect it all up with the crossovers tucked up under the dash and cable tied firmly in place and your all done. Hope this helps.

That's it Mike. My standard FG was the same as the bottom pic. The new one I was supplied was the same as the top one. The thing that gave me the sh!ts was the FG,BF,BA fitting all have the same part number, but are clearly different parts.

Sorry mate, no pics, but I have got a picture of the breakdown of the centre console parts. You should be able to order the ducting from it.

I got it wrong to start with. Don't know what I was thinking. I was trying to convert .MOD files to .WMV. I found a convertor that does the job. Thanks guys.

Sorry mate, no further updates. Last year was a busy year for me. I'm slowly starting to get the itch again though so maybe some more updates in the next couple of months.

Same answer as the other forum mate.

Arkayne, finally got my clip modified. Hope it works. Notice the squat but no creep forward. This run was my 253rwkW run.

Much the same as the Process West unit. Either will do the job.

Seems to be the luck of the draw, phildee. My FG had the larger screen as standard and the new one I fitted was the smaller version, as supplied from Ford.

Looks quite normal considering the kms travelled. A magnet is a good idea also. No large particles nmeans bearings and diff gears are all still intact.

Have you had a look at this one kevo? http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/Fg-Stereo-Install-t53544.html

A lot of people dislike the mounting method of the tank you are interested in. The Process West unit, although more expensive, is positioned in a better spot and closer to the engine.

Without knowing what car you have and it's power level makes it hard to give a suggestion. For comparison though, I run Kumho KU31 in 19" on my car and for stock power they have more grip and are quieter than the standard 18'" tyres that I replaced. I paid around $1200 fitted for the set.

As always smicky, ever the legend. Thanks mate.

I have some dyno footage of my car in .DAT format that won't play. How do I convert it to WMV so I can view it? Thanks