PHANTMXR6

Don't bother, quite normal if the interior is hot. Enjoy the car for what it is.

There may be too much timing in it and when it gets warm it knocks. The ECU may then pull timing to stop this. Could explain the feeling you're getting.

What's wrong with a chair stopper? If you get the right ones they are thicker than most automotive plugs anyway.

Hmmm. Could be evaporating fuel in the fuel lines. Is your fuel pump/system due for a check up? What sort of temperature was registering on the temp gauge?

The PCV valve runs into the inlet manifold, not the crossover. The pipe you're referring to is a breather.

An engine will process some water. To a degree, but as has been previously mentioned, try and steer clear of big puddles and floodways. I have a similar problem in Kununurra Tom, but I don't have an UBP to worry about. lol Just make sure you are aware of it and drive accordingly.

Another cheap option is to smear some pushbike inner tube rubber glue on the silicon joiner. Not too much, just a smear. Leave it for a few minutes then tighten your clamps. Not much though, just a smear.

Why was labour the killer? Looks like a short section of hose and some fittings to me. Or was that price including removal and refit? Looks like an alternative option to the standard item anyway. What is the standard item worth?

That was easy. Well, for me anyway. I made a whole set of switched power and earth distribution blocks. The thread is located here. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/findpost-t53544-p823171.html But you could use the power source socket in the centre console if you wanted too.

That was easy. Well, for me anyway. I made a whole set of switched power and earth distribution blocks. The thread is located here. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/findpost-t53544-p823171.html But you could use the power source socket in the centre console if you wanted too.

Depends what they supply. If you know what fluids you want then it can be a much cheaper option as all you will be paying the mechanic for is labour. Absolutely get the turbo oil supply screen removed and checked/replaced. If you carry out regular servicing don't believe all the hype that surrounds it as if it is serviced regularly it will be fine. At 55k kms I would reckon, as long as it has been looked after, that the majority of the suspension components should be fine. But, well worth checking none the less. As a mechanic by trade, drop me a PM and I'll give you a list of things that I personally would check.

As The Bogan has said, 400rwkW would be living on the edge without beefing up the bottom end.

Flow bench testing and real world performance are two different kettles of fish as well gragraaa.

Diff oil and brake fluid would be another couple to add to the list. Are you supplying all your own fluids for the service?

Are all calculations done based on 100% efficiency, or something lower?

Be worried. The compressor wheel should not come into contact with the housing. Get a quote to get it sorted before it gets worse.

dark

Does it feel like it happens with the aircon on or off? Could be something out of balance somewhere.

Manual/auto Could be clutch rattle.

I've used all the fuels listed by others and had no ill effects with any of them.

PWR. Look here. http://www.pwr.com.au/#/view=products/s=is/

MWA Option 3+. Can't go wrong.

Soooo front seal of the gearbox, or the engine? I still don't get it.

Can't see any reason why not.