PHANTMXR6
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Everything posted by PHANTMXR6
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If that's the case then I'd say they are shims that have been used to get the correct seated spring pressures.
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The rears won't need the wheels removed to get them out. Just remove the lower shock mount bolt and jack the car up until there is enough room to just pull the spring out. You may need to remove the swaybar bolt to get it to drop enough also. Make sure you use an axle stand before sliding under the car. And as has been previously mentioned, chop the bumpstop off at the first section before lowering the car back down.
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I'd reckon they are there to stop the steel valve springs eating away at the aluminium head.
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Any chance of before and after dyno results?
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Won't matter. As soon as you go to WOT the compressor clutch will disengage.
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Use the search function mate. Everyone has an opinion on what to use. Personally I use all Penrite products in mine, and exactly the specification Ford recommend.
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Fair enough. Your initial "If you are under warrenty you cannot do it yourself and be still covered" statement was a bit broad. I spoke directly with the owner of the dealer I bought my car from about it and he said no problems. Good enough for me. Just read your edit. That's understandible, but not everyone should be tarred with the same brush. No offence taken.
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So tell me why I can't service my own car? And what's with the "Who ever told you that needs a pineapple enima" ? It doesn't make sense. I keep records of my service history in my owners manual, including receipts for the genuine filters and a copy of my trade certificate also. What's wrong with that?
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80-82 is fine. You may need to get your tuner to tweak your tune so the engine doesn't think it's still in warm up mode.
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Rubbish. I service my car myself. I'm a mechanic by trade and was told as long as I use genuine parts my car will still be covered under warranty.
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Custom Triple Gauge Mounts For Fg
PHANTMXR6 replied to 000-BOZ's topic in Interior & Exterior Workshop
Pink or yellow, yep that's them. -
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In an FG? What components did you get for your money?
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Yes I got one, and there are only 3 volumes covering seven sections. Depends what you mean by any good? It has all the info I wanted and more. Put it this way, I was quoted $1000 a volume when I first bought my car so to pick up the whole lot for around the $500 mark has made my day. And it has so much valuable information in it.
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Not needed anymore. I now have what I want. Thanks Daniel. :ooops:
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Cost wise I bet there are a lot of blokes glad you're doing the R&D EGOXRT! It definately flows enough for 600+rwkW as Simon from Extreme has the standard manifold on his car. Have you looked at how much difference there is between the FG and B series throttle body? Or did you decide to stay with the B series throttle body for a cost saving?
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Do you want to just make it or make it reliably? To just make it, induction, intercooler/pipework, injectors, valve springs, compressor and cover modifications, fuel pump, exhaust mods including cat, tune and probably a couple of more things that I may have forgotten. To make it reliably add a built engine to the list above. Oh, what sort of fuel are you going to use to make said 400rwkW? Edit: how much? Anywhere from $10-25k.
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Any reason you've mounted the throttle body at a 45 degree angle instead of straight on the manifold?
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The numbers sound about right for the additional items. Well done.
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Too much money. Don't bother with generic tunes either. And the injectors will not slot straight into your car.
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If it were that simple, it would be on a graph. I can make a graph do that by going from full throttle to no throttle and then back to full throttle.... Both graphs show nothing more than a line that goes up and down, as far as I'm concerned. There's no load data, boost, rev range, gear info etc.? It's a bit hard to be calling the differences without all the info. No offence, IH8TOADS, but with the info you've supplied, apples aren't apples.
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They are thick enough to put up with years of abuse under some un-godly-weights that people let themselves get to. I'm sure they'll survive the life expectancy you want in your engine bay. The other option is o have some pipe work made up to replace what you have, minus the hole for the BOV.
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What are you trying to compare with these two graphs? Or, how can you compare these two graphs? The first graph has a time scale that starts at 35 seconds where as the second one starts at 3.5 seconds? What were the perameters surrounding both graphs? I fail to see the relationship between both graphs purely based on the timelines between each. Show me some real comparisons, not just up and down graphs.
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That's why we recommend these things on the boosted side of the turbo, not the exhaust side. lol As Rapid said, WD does what it's designed to do. Clean it all up and you should be smoothe sailing.
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Although it looks the part, I'd be keen to know what the standard item is worth as $250 sounds like too much to me.