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PHANTMXR6

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Everything posted by PHANTMXR6

  1. Just for closure, that power figure was made from 26psi boost. We’ve had other issues so a street tune at 20psi will be loaded in the coming weeks and left alone. The power figures made on my tuners dyno are what they are. I don’t care about numbers but how the car drives and I can’t fault it. I’m out with the pissing contest arronm..
  2. I’m waiting for the latest boost and AFR graph but from memory we stuck with 24psi. I’ll upload a pic of the graph when I get it.
  3. Nope. 98 and no hardware changes. Just fitted a catch can and retune to compensate for some lean idle and low throttle position driving because of it.
  4. Latest results. [emoji123]
  5. They used SCT for my car but prefer HPT.
  6. Been a while but I finally got to 400+ Very happy with Atic in Darwin.
  7. Damien form Atic Performance tuned mine. Very happy with the consultation and results. Easy to talk too and understanding as well.
  8. Happy Birthday PHANTMXR6!

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  9. Yes there is a screen in the oil supply line to the turbo in the FG engines. Have you not been through this thread? Plenty of reference to the FG screen.
  10. griffo, in the picture of mine 4 posts up, my thumb is on the hose you need to spray your CRC into. You can remove the hose without having to remove the turbo intake pipe, but it's a bit tight.
  11. The switch on the clutch pedal inside the car has a couple of uses. One is for disengagement of cruise control, the other is for use of the Launch Assist system. The click heard on the outside of the car is the reverse lock out solenoid mounted on the gearbox.
  12. New coat of polish or 3. Looks shiny new again. :)

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  13. There won't be a fix for something that ain't broke. Quite normal.
  14. Ok. If it wasn't a valve problem then what was it?
  15. No tirck. Just use either two 24mm open end spanners or one spanner and a deep socket. You need to remove the oil pressure sender adaptor to slide the pipe off then you can remove the screen from the block.
  16. Why not just do what I did in post #2 of this thread?
  17. Not sure if this is helpful at all, but I induced vibration by replacing the 3 diff mount bushes with Nolathane items. I now get a lot more noise into the cabin and a slight vibration/hum through the car that wasn't there before. The driveshaft and counterweights were all photographed and marked prior to disassembly and refitted in the same position.
  18. That 'how to' article was for a Territory and not a Falcon. You have no access to the bush in a Falcon unless you drill a hole in your spare tyre well.
  19. Is there that much flex in the firewall you had to put a bracket and stop bolt on the end of the brake master cylinder?
  20. New diff and control blade bushes fitted. Tight but noisy now.

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  21. Sorry gents. No more progress on this one. I have removed the head unit arrangement and need to redesign and build something that sits in better. I've also now installed a triple gauge holder on the dahs with a boost gauge that is fitted and working, but yet to fill the other 2 holes. Hopefully in the coming months I will get back into the boot and start the sub box construction.
  22. Does it happen when you take off at around 15-20km/hr? If so it could be the ABS going through it's self test. Happens to all of them. I think that's what TotallyHaggard is talking about.
  23. Why would the unit price not be reflected by the change in the exchange rate? It does come from America after all doesn't it?
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