doogs8282

Apparently a common fg problem due to the way they have to feed the screen in...

Hey guys, I think the mystery has been solved. Took it to my local ford dealer, they had their road test engineer come for a drive with me and said the front windscreen has been replaced for the dealer to get rwc and hasn't been sealed properly. I'll get it sorted tomorrow and report back. Kinda makes sense now I think about all the symptoms! Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate the input.

Pretty much anything over 2grand will produce the fault with accelerating up inclines producing more effect. Not something that only happens with "spirited" driving. Not much of a stretch to place a hand in that vicinity either!

Putting my foot on the brake makes no change. Imstill thinking its boost rather than vacuum as I did notice last night that when I put my hand up to the inside of the window closest to the dash, I can feel the airflow that I'm hearing. Now im almost convinced my problem is inside the car just under the dash. Easy job to pull the instrument cluster? And can I run the car with the cluster removed?

Yeah, I did. Even with that outstanding issue it was too good to pass up. Silver XR6T 2009 with 95000 km, XR luxury pack, reverse camera, iPod integration kit, tow kit, 5yr unlimited km warranty(I have read the fine print and it actually covers quite a bit), 5 wheels and front and rear lower bar sections painted in Ego...just under 22gdrive away, and they gave me what I wanted for my last car.

Speaking to a few people about my issue and it is definately related to boost pressure. Must be a leaking joint or split somewhere. I just can't get my head around how it sounds so clear in the cabin, as if the leak is in the cabin, not the engine bay. I really need to start pulling things apart and have a good look around.

After a bit of looking around online, I see that fg LPG models had a recall due to vacuum leaks associated with the brake booster and it's check valve, but nothing really to do with the petrol falcons. I wonder if it's only a batch of bad ones that only went on the LPG ones, or it shows up more on those models. Sounds almost too similar to be coincidence.

Ok, just spoke to the dealer and he said the noise was the brake booster where it goes through the firewall. He sealed it and the noise is apparently much less, but not gone, anyone else had a similar issue and short of shelling out for another booster, is there a fix?

Stranger things have happened! Looking at worst case scenarios, whatever it is shouldnt be causing damage from what I can gather, just annoying; mabe I just settle on the car with a cash adjustment and slowly nut it out myself...I just want to be fairly certain that somehow its not causing something stupid like a lean out condition... Noises- I can live with for a price, engine damage I can't.

I can make the noise when the car is at a standstill, doesn't change in pitch with revs, only increses air velocity/ volume...

I could understand that adding to the induction noise from the engine bay, but this really sounds like the air rush you would get from the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner in the cabin near the drivers side A pillar. I'm meant I be picking it up tonight, so I'll check the air box. Thanks!

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of purchasing a 09 XR6T from a dealer with 97k on the clock. I noticed on the test drive that there is a distinct vacuum/air/ boost noise coming from behind the dash and gets stronger the harder I push. It doesn't seem to impair performance or idle, it's just noisy, not something the stereo could or should drown out. I've driven probably 3 FG turbos so far and none of them had this issue. So the dealer took it down to ford I get looked at and they couldn't find anything (nothing loose or cracked in the eng bay) and said its normal. The dealer I'm buying the car from actually drives a G6ET, and he knows it isn't normal, so he is looking into it himself. Any pearls of wisdom as to what may be causing this? I was wondering if the guy who owned it previously had extra gauges mounted and removed before sale and there is an open line begin the dash.... It's that loud... Thanks guys!

Bit of an update on whats been happening with my dilemma. Spoke to the dealership who I bought the ute from, and they were happy to send me out another hard lid lock set, which I received in the post today. Only problem is that they are too small in diameter compared to the locks I am taking out. The Holes in the hardlid are about 3/4 inch, and the new locks are about 5/8 inch, with the heads being 3/4 inch....the new locks fit entirely through the existing holes. Does anyone have an aftermarket hardtop that runs this size lock? I need to figure out a manufacturer for my lid, so I can get the correct locks. Thanks for all your assistance so far.

BFYOOT, When you say get the one with the push button, do you mean the lidlok system, or another system? I was unsure about what to do with the holes once I got the remote locking if I went down that path. Another thought I had was to get a set of brushed stainless vandal proof switches that fit directly in the holes, so that pushing either of them would pop the hardtop up a little via electric door strikers, but only if the car is unlocked. That way its easier to get your fingers under the lid to open. Still only an idea though... Got a price from ford for a replacement lock kit, got quoted $110.00. They don't/ won't sell the nut seperate. Might also try a locksmith. Was hoping I could come to some arrangement with the dealership I got the car from, as I have reviewed photos from the day I picked it up, and they show the nut missing even from then.... See if they will come to the party. I don't know how far the 3 month stat warranty stretches, but I will try my luck.

Hi guys, I bought my ute from a dealer across the other side of melbourne about a month ago, and have only just noticed that one of the hard cover locks has two seperate problems. Number 1: The nut that holds the lock snug against the cover is missing, letting the who;e lock spin in the hole. Number 2: The key will only go in 3/4 of the way into the lock on that same side, making it impossible to lock. I think I will have a hard time proving it was like it when I bought it, and only just noticed it so I think trying to squeeze them to fix it would be pretty much pointless. So I'm looking at having to get another set of locks for the lid. Are there generic locks to suit hard lids, or do I have to figure out the manufacturer of the lid? Does anyone have any idea what the locks are worth? It's a fibreglass job with the carpet underside, but there are no markings on it to give a clue as to who makes them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Ok, what the ford dealer ended up doing was this; He fitted the 2300kg towpack, and put the 1600/1675kg (can't recall exact figure) tongue in. He had to cut the rear bar, and it isn't the prettiest job I have seen, but he has mounted it in such a way that with the tongue removed, none of the towpack protrudes through the rear bar. What I was thinking of doing is making a dummy tongue that has a stub the same profile as the rear bar, which I would get colour coded. Thanks for all the advice guys, it helped me get the best compromise in what I wanted, what I needed and what I could afford.

If I wasn't serious, I wouldn't be asking for peoples opinions... The info I have been getting is only second-hand from the sales guy from holden, where I am buying the ute from, talking to the ford dealer up the road from them. This is where they are getting most of the things fixed before I take delivery. What I am getting at is that I have been told that there is a 1200 and 2300 rated towpack that ford can fit, but the turbo is rated for 1675 in auto form. The ford dealer apparently said that they usually fit the 2300 tow packs to the utes. How many are turbo, I don't know... I only want to make sure I get the largest capacity tow pack that the warranty will allow. Surely if 1675 is stated as max towing capacity for an auto turbo, then they should have the appropriate tow pack to suit. Sorry if I sounded like I was having a lend of you guys, I just want to make sure I do things right, and I am getting conflicting info. I think I will ring my local dealership in the morning, and see exactally where I stand. Thanks for your input guys

I wonder if I got ford to fit the largest reciever hitch suited for my vehicle, if the decided to put the 2300kg tow pack on there, then the warranty responsibility would lie squarely with them? How can ford void their own warranties???Any thoughts on this?? I have decided to try and go with the larger one, as that is what the dealership says they fit to most of thier utes. Anyone with a auto turbo ute have a towbar dealer fitted? If so, what rating did you get?

So there is hope yet! Being a 2007 build, I'd hate to void my warranty on something that I might use once or twice a year. But if your dealer fitted it for you, maybe a different story...

Just had a quick look at the ford website and they don't list the heavy duty towbar as an option. Would this void the engine/drivetrain warranty? Also, do you think the turbo engine and 6 speed auto be more than up to the task of towing a car trailer... Probably an all up weight of between 1600 to 1700kgs. Thanks for your responses so far, the dealer is calling me tomorrow with options to take up, obviously I would pick up the extra expense of the hd pack if I chose to go down that path.

Could you post a pic if you have the time, so I could get an idea of how it looks? What load rating is that towbar?, as I may need to tow a car trailer a couple of times a year.... Thanks doogs8282

Hi guys, just put a deposit down on an 07 BF mk11 xr6t ute, and I want to get a receiver hitch towbar setup fitted as part of the deal. I don't want the hole in the bumper and I searched all the threads, but could only come up with photos of the fpv detachable lower bumper setup. The BF setup as far as I can tell doesn't have the detatchable lower section like the fpv bar. I need the option to tow a car trailer if need be, so I need the removable receiver hitch setup. Any thoughts on how I could do this without cutting into the outer section of the bumper? Thought about getting it put underneath, but it would most probably scrape. Thanks heaps guys