P_BA_XR6

I used racetech 52mm in ss induction three gauge holder boost, oil pressure and oil temp

Does anyone know what eaton diff I would need by part number to buy truetrac from the us. I have looked around its half the price, I was told 1050 but no part number. So looked around and found few part numbers and I think it might be one these. EAT-913A589 913A586 EAT-913A-500 I have found them in the states for $450 + shipping . Which is anywhere from $112 to $280. The prices are from summit racing

I have no boost leaks and no vacuum leaks. The only faults I'm getting is p1507 and p0171. Fuel pressure was checked by mechanic he believes it had great fuel pressure. What's happening is the car will boost fine any gear then it will just go to no boost randomly. I will accelerate and it will make no attempt on boosting then if I take my foot off the gas pedal and place it back on it will hit boost again. Then the process again will start all over again. The car is tuned to a max boost of 18psi but seems to hit 21 psi on the street sometimes. Does anyone think it might be going into limp mode because of it. The car has all the goodies , I.e wastegate mod and act., 1000hp cooler, plenum, exhaust, and so on. Nothing out of the ordinary anyway.

I have standard xr6 turbo exhaust if you want it and a few other mods. If you want the exhaust 50 bucks that includes dump pipe to tip, intercoolers, turbo piping and crossover, xr6 turbo clutch 2nd still good only changed due to mods) ,aftermarket boost controller If I was you I would check if I had the boost solernoid cable behind the fuse box. the same plug as the power steering or injector. You might have to remove fuse box because cable might be taped up in an awkward spot. The cable isnt all there you have to get xr6 turbo computer and passengers side boost cable If you do it the standard way your boost is more controller able. Your tuner can adjust the boost over the rev range and the other great thing is if anyone borrows your car or any thing they can't play with boost levels

I have no boost leaks and no vacuum leaks. The only faults I'm getting is p1507 and p0171. Fuel pressure was checked by mechanic he believes it had great fuel pressure. What's happening is the car will boost fine any gear then it will just go to no boost randomly. I will accelerate and it will make no attempt on boosting then if I take my foot off the gas pedal and place it back on it will hit boost again. Then the process again will start all over again. The car is tuned to a max boost of 18psi but seems to hit 21 psi on the street sometimes. Does anyone think it might be going into limp mode because of it. The car has all the goodies , I.e wastegate mod and act., 1000hp cooler, plenum, gtx front impeller, exhaust, and so on. Nothing out of the ordinary anyway.

My next turbo will be like that

Buy like a gt42 maybe with twin scroll, make your exhaust manifold 6 to 1, put a spacer between turbo and manifold put a 7 psi actuator and flap across one side of the scrolls and then put in another waste gate controlling both sides so then you have the best of both worlds. By closing one of scroll you will make your exhaust side smaller then once it's over the 7 psi it will open then the the overall wastegate will control the rest

What do you mean? mate

If your getting 385 on a auto, you must have more timing or something. Or if you have bf mk2, it might be something to do with the ba not having the variable exhaust timing. They are from a ba mk2, I reused my Na head from my old Na motor. I did turbo conversion to my ute. Cam profile I beleive not much difference between the Na to turbo.

Its on my mind ATM what you reakon cut off at 430kw

I'm running 18 psi and get 387kw 940nm at rwkw manual with 4.11 diff ratio what is everyone roughly getting for around the 18psi mark My mods are 1mm larger valves Ferra Crow cam valve springs Mild port Na cams Cosmetic head gasket Lighten engine balancer Lighten flywheel Bf mk 2 f6 short block 80lb seimen injectors Surge Bosch 044 Walbro intake pump 4in dump 4 in cat Twin 2.5 Larger flapper and actuator 1000hp Plazaman intercooler Plazaman hot side and cold side 4 intake I think that's it

I ment to say it made difference to my Na motor/ Na set up apologies but turbo have no idea I put it on because I transferred it from Na motor but I still stick to anything lighter will be an advantage personal thought not a mechanic, don't see how it would affect really the crank seeing people buy the lighten flywheel and clutch kit from malwood and the flywheel is about 1kg lighter than standard and people still pushing the 390 kw mark off the stock engine/crank. so you saying putting the lighten engine balancer on the front won't have same affect as the lightened flywheel. I put both on so it's matched weight off both sides as well as the fact I already had the lighten engine balancer and I needed stronger clutch, ( my thought) I see taking equal/or bloody close weight off both sides is ok seeing its matched it's then balanced again to standard setup just lighter, having less weight will give you quicker revs (more Throttle response, possibly torque gains from mid to high revs because of less combustion is made to turn the crank with the lighten flywheel and balancer) but you lose low Down torque, If I was to buy pulley I would buy something what has passed in racing criteria they would have some time fluid in balancer I beleive to help get rid of any vibration by the fluid which would run to spot were its not balanced such as power bond pulley Type not time fricken iPhone auto dictionary

I have ba xr6 turbo with a ba gt body kit, I put a fg Fpv badge on. They look heaps better then typical ford badge. I had to drill the front grill 0.1mm larger were the badge locator goes to fit it in

I bought engine from ford I think Fpv f6 mk2 I beleive, do they have a water to oil cooler on the side of the block which takes z516

When I had my Na it made a great difference any weight off your crank will allow the engine to free spin more, so the engine will rev quicker, only bad thing is you lose low down pulling torque but I never noticed it, any weight of the pulley and flywheel will make the engine rev quicker. I think you would gain 10kw to 15 kw max, I have one I don't look back

I got 95 roughly first rotation and then 190 on Fpv f6 bf so hope it helps but best way is to do a leak down test more accurate

Just seeing wat everyone else thinks! Who have done it and how long did it last? Etc I was thinking for a race tune, doesn't have to be 450 just a thought. I got all supporting mods besides rods and pistons which is in the future list I have bf Fpv mk 2 f6 bottom end with 6000kms on it at 390 kws pump fuel. I was thinking to moving to e85 or av gas

Sas tuning in silverwater is great tuner, he had done one of the first ruf Porsche in Australia and made it run off the factory computer. Broke porsches computer program and made 3.4 911 engine in boxster make 196 rwkw Na basically standard. Made my normally Na to turbo conversion xr6 turbo run without taking it to ford and getting them to preprogram it. He made is own Program up and still has security program. made my beast from not running to 390rwkw and will wheel spin in 4th gear by easien on the gas without clutch help, it runs on pump fuel at 18psi and still let's me get roughly 450 to 600kms to a tank

Turbo oil fees just made an adaption to we're the oil switch goes and 100mm braided hose to t style block

I agree with what you say Ive always been taught if I had 3.7 I would have more torque than I would with the 4.11 because its harder for the motor to turn the wheels with the 3.7. But on this occasion the ute gets up and goes before you realize you got to change gear. Back to how I know the clutch is slipping. The other night it was raining, I was sitting in third at time got to a slight incline up a hill nailed it seem to be fine and got out of it. Further up the rd I was in 5th droped it back to 4th and sitting around 2800 to 3000 and gave it gut. Full and heard the sorta trying to slip, revs go want to fly up to rev range, the thing is wasn't really moving any faster. I got out of it straight way, next second woof a big smell of clutch slip.

It loves the 4.11 the Dyno tuner reakons. I would have to agree, you can feel your head being pressed into the seat when it grips

It drops out to 15 psi aft 4

It makes 20 psi at 2800 3000 if that helps

I have xr6 turbo 400 kw 1000nm torque t56 and 4.11 diff ratios It feels as if it's slips even at low revs feel like small vibration and I swear I can hear as if it's slipping under acceleration this at rev changes to 3000 no further acceleration then 35% throttle and if I punch it in 3rd or 4 it's slips even in the wet. It was fine when I got it back from the tuner as I thought early days which was 2500 ks ago it would light tyres in 4th at 60% to 70% throttle now I have done just 4000 kms it slips any ideas