P_BA_XR6

|u see what I mean on this page http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/weight/battery_relocate.htm

if u can see my photo I put terminal for my positive on my air box so I had somewhere to jump start the car if I need to at the front of my car because my battery is under my tray

The maintance advise would tighten up/check the turbo bolts every oil change or second if thrash it or once every 30000 would be good IDEa change oil every 10000 and change filter . check to see if spark plugs been changed once u own it, check basically oils (gearbox, diff, clutch and brakes) and coolant and check fuel filter Buy aftermarket oil filter kit from earls or eBay turbos know to fail to not enough oil/ oil line internal filter clogs up Check belts n pulleys once 100000 I'm sorta fussy so maybe not everything but defiantly good idea after oil line kit and check turbo bolts which bolts the turbo to the manifold once n awhile turbo get hot enought to cause the nuts to loosen little bit or what I've done double nut

Check under the fuse box on the drivers side there is orange plug which controls the I think it's security security or could be something else anysways doesnt come up with a fault but doesn't let the car start it's in driver side other then that press the fuel reset switch in the passagers foot well Happend to me f knows how it Happend to come out but it did otherwise could be cranksensor not which could throw out the system/timing The crank sensor goes from apparent to much heat Let us know how u go

The map sensor is on the manifold I'm in the process aswell having the issue my self of getting the wirring part seeing the clip is different on the 2 bar map sensor from our standard 1 bar sensor they would need to be in the right wiring format as two wires would sense boost n etc

When I put my new motor in will I have problem getting it passed by the rta seeing im going from ba mk 2 na to bf mk2 f6 turbo engine?? such as will I have to do emission test or anything or can I go up there and say I put my new motor in and etc and it will just be fine seeing my ute came out with a turbo and later on in that same shape that motor?? if you have any advice please add it would appricate it (my motor is bf f6 short block with a ba head with the head with slight port upgrade here and there to make the flow better with stainless steel valves and crow cams springs I get the motor back end of the week been held up by timing chain couldnt get one in from ford)

I have started to do turbo conversion on my ute does anyone know if I have to get engineers report because I have gone from NA to Turbo I think I dont have to but real question is because I have ba mk 2 and im putting a bf mk2 typhoon engine in will I have to comply to the new pollution regulations, will I have to comply with anything else because im going to a newer motor and would it be bad idea if I put the mods on straight of the batt or should I try get it passed first then worry about the mods???

I was thinking about using welders earth cable which is 0 gauge what you think

1)what size cable you guys think I should run to the tray of my ute like 16mm2 or 2 gauge or what without really any effect???, 2) what type of lugs should I buy so I can join the original wiring to the extented cables to the boot??? 3) should I put it under the tray or in the tray I know under tray is pain to get to when need change the battery but if I did it under tray I would put two prongs out for jump start point either in the front or somewhere off or in the tub? reason why I putting the 1000hp plazaman intercooler in and I got to put my oil cooler somewhere so I thought I would put it under were the battery goes in the front bar section under the head light and the intake pipe to the turbo in a box were the battery goes normally.

im thinkin about making up some brake upgrades for the ba and that with the standard 298mm disc and bringing them up to 330mm I did it to my ute and they work great would many people be interested

thanks guys I let you know how I go with the conversion once the motor is in

well im in the proccess of building my na to turbo it so far has plazaman 1000hp intercooler, plazaman hot side and cold side, plazaman plenum, fpv f6 bf mk2 brand new motor with head done port n polish with larger valves, gt3540 turbo, atomic oil pump, surge tank borch 044, clutch and 80 pound injectors so I think that's around the 400 kw mark so you reakon twin 3 in is to big and will lose velocity or will twin 2.5 get me to roughly 400kw mark

yer they tuned my car once with the throttle body clamp not on properly once before and told me the motor was shot..I was absolutely gutted after I was told I might aswell leave it there and spend 10k on a new built motor drove hm pi$$ed off, got hm opened the bonnet said what the drove back and got it retuned made another 40kw with the hose fitted with no engine probs Keen to get it all tuned up im over driving around off boost everywhere. Look forward to a good result. Thanx guys reason for edit: oops im on my brothers computer

what do you guys think I should go for, im just thinking get a 4 inch dump pipe then 4 cat to a twin 2.5 or twin 3 inch

to the na xr6 bit I have 178 kw non dyno tuned with extractors, exhaust, growler and 75mm throttle body to the turbo bit my brother has xr6 turbo he monza intercooler 60lb injectors walbro fuel pump and the middle section of the exhaust done in twin 2.5 and hot dog 330kw

I am trying to achieve the 400 kw mark the larger valves are possible as far as I been told, I know its a turbo but I thought seeing im getting the valves done may well do the rest then I can run less booost to get the same result I want to run less boost to make it some what reliable

if I have bf typhoon short block, have port polished head, valve springs and 3mm big vavles intake .5 mm bigger exhaust valves, 4 inch dump, twin 2.5 exhaust, 80lb injectors and walbro fuel pump any ideas what kws I could get safely im talking as rough estimation and do you think its really worth the bigger valves or just not really worth it for the money

you can buy a short fpv fg engine from ford for $3700 but as far as I know if you going to use the bf head apparently the heads are the same but im not engine builder so I cant really say from experience but I have heard they are diffent but I know you have the dip stick at the front on a ba bf on the fg they are at the back, I was going to do the the fpv fg bottem end but I was told to use the fpv bf.

the exhaust valves wont last

what better the fg f6 motor or the bf f6 motor I have heard many different opinions does anyone know which has the better conrods and etc. as far I would think the current motor would be but I could be wrong im going to use my na head of my na motor and get valves and and valve springs n etc and the head port and polished.

I got someone to stand behind me n he reakons the rear passangers tail light dims aswell so that still be the earth

Everytime I touch the brake pedal the fog lights turn on n slight illumination of the back ground lights on the dash its not the tow bar kit I've checked any ideas

I bought some led lights for my ute while back when I put them in, ( car running) when I turn the head lights on which then turns the tail lights on they turn on fine, but if I press the brake doesnt change anything. in other words light doesnt get brighter. is it possible to do these led lights. if so do I just put a resistor in the tail light active so then it dulls the light, so when I press my brake the brake light active as no resistor so it then it gets brighter.