millers

for anyone else looking he's available on facebook at https://www.facebook.com/WhitefordTech great guy and got my sorted with a new dash in about 10 minutes. definately +1 for Whiteford

I reckon I've found him on facebook! Cheers for your help

had a poke around and can't seem to find him. the links for him I can find on the forum seem tro be dead 😞

Hey all, I have an issue with my FG showing a System Comms Fault on the dash and refusing to start. From what I can find it's pretty common for the gauge cluster to be the cause of it so I'm looking for someone who can diagnose and repair/replace the cluster. Can anyone call out some good shops in West Melbourne (around Werribee) area? Thanks

as I said, I havent tried it lol. just a method I found somewhere. yours does sound easier though so I would suggest trying that first

get in a car, close the door, set the e-brake and put the key in the ignition. now, turn the key to on, but DO NOT start the engine. wait until seat belt warning light turns OFF (it takes about a minute). now, within 60 seconds you have to complete following procedure: buckle-unbuckle your seat belt 3 times, ending in unbuckled position. turn your headlights ON and OFF buckle-unbuckle your seat belt 3 times, ending in unbuckled position again. seat belt warning will be illuminated for 3 seconds. after warning light turns OFF, within 7 seconds buckle-unbuckle seat belt ONCE. warning light will now flash 4 TIMES for confirmation if procedure has been successful. and that's it! no more annoying chime. for enabling chime, just repeat the procedure. that will apparently disable the seatbelt chime in the FG. been meaning to try it but havent got around to it yet. as for why you would want it disabled, it is extremely annoying when driving between the shed in the gate (not even a long driveway) and around the parking area at work where I have to lean out to swipe ID tags or press buttons to open gates.

no... I assumed they would charge a fortune for them so I havent bothered with them yet

how about floor mats? I havent been able to find FG specific ones anywhere

I havent heard my fans at all while driving. only time I noticed them is when I turned my car off and they came on. have only had the car a week and been driving it really easy for the run in though

^ that's on a BF2. I have a BA2 and another mate has a BA1 all with police mode on. only thing you lose is the data displayed in the little LCD in the gauge cluster as that now displays your speed (even speed in reverse!)

I have one from pdftown that is 148mb and it has a fair bit of electronics stuff in it. has pinouts for a few different things but I didnt see anything specific to the ecu. I might have missed it though the ford forums link looks good though. ill have to save that

Download PDF Ford Falcon BA 2003 Service Manual | PDFTown.com that's for a BA Falcon, not sure how much is different for a BF wiring wise. just had a quick look through it and didnt see anything specific to the ecu but it might have something useful for you in it

I assume its using the same motor that the key uses to unlock the doors. my bet would be one of the plugs is lose on the BEM. if you reach into the tissue box under the ICC you should be able to feel 4 plugs in there. make sure they are all in tight

USB Car Diagnostic Code Reader OBDII CAN OBD II OBD2 - eBay Other Tools, Tools, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Dec-09 11:07:26 AEDST) that looks like what I have. can confirm it works fine with the centrafuse 3.0 trial. IMO its probably worth the extra for the real one from obdpros with the 90 degree cable though

sounds a lot like neos engine. we were convinced it was coming from the front of the head but it turned out to be 3 bent rods :(

the cheap $30 ones from ebay should do the job. I have one on my BA2 and it works fine for basic stuff and should do fine for the diag stuff in centrafuse. if you want to do it right then look at OBDPros though. the ebay one is a cheap and nasty version of that. it should work fine but wont be able to receive data at high speed due to the slow connection to the pc (mine maxes out at 9600 baud compared to the 500kbit for the canbus in our cars)

I bought from HP Tuners instead of the AU distributer. support is generally great, just had a bit of lag due to the different time zones (I assume anything that needs to be looked at by their engineers would have to wait for their business hours anyway though) my issue with the BA PCM is mostly sorted. HP Tuners have done a lot of messing around changing stuff around in the tunes files to get something that half works for me. now I just need to get the ICC reset so I can use the new PCM I have licenced and ill be all set. for now I have all the security stuff in the PCM turned off so I can start the car and drive it with the new PCM, I just get 'security code error' on the ICC

the software is still beta but most issues you may have should get fixed quickly. support on the HP Tuners forums seems pretty good too. I dont have my car tuned with it (getting towards 12 months since I bought it and I still cant use it properly...) because of the issues mentioned above with the BA PCM. if you have a BA and the car has ever been reflashed by ford then chances are its not gunna work for you. if you are planning on buying it yourself then try find someone in your area with it just to test first. im not a tuner but from having a look through the program everything you should need seems to be there. if there is something specific your after let me know and ill check

If the car has been reflashed by Ford chances are it doesnt have a VIN in it (not sure why that would effect the Dashhawk unless it uses the VIN to identify the car to know what PIDs to look at?). VCM Suite has the same issue. good luck finding anyone at Ford that cares. got any other BAs you are able to try it on?

whats the difference between Racer Pro and Advantage III ? if you have Racer Pro are you locked to tuning just 1 device? whats the upside to going Advantage III?

mine idles a little rough for a second or 2 or I just turn it straight on. if I turn the key to start and give it time to prime the pump then it starts perfectly. I have recently changed the fuel pump because of another issue and it hasnt changed this bit.

yep same issue here. turned out to be the fuel pump. I wrote a story about it the other day... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/findpost-t62570-p942522.html

forums at www.mp3car.com are great. got a few people on there who have done write ups about their installs in falcons. well worth a look. as for purchasing there are a couple places to buy cases and then just get general PC parts

this sounds familar... has it randomly stalled on you at all? I had the same thing. my list: started with coils and that helped a lot (swapped with another falcon, both cars ran better so I doubt it was coils) next was fuel filter. it was filthy (paid a fortune for a service 10,000km ago and got charged for a replacement fuel filter...). again it seemed to help for a while but if the car was left sitting idle for a few minutes it would start to miss again after that was plugs. all gapped to 0.81 I think it was. didnt make a difference at all although the old plugs didnt look great (replaced in the same service as the fuel filter...) with it still randomly missing and sometimes stalling I decided to have a look at it with a newly aquired exhaust gas analyser. sitting idle AFRs were around 14.7. every now and then the car would cough a little and idle really rough and AFRs would shoot up to around 16 then come back down and idle went back to normal. when the car was running right WOT AFR was around 11.6 but when it was cutting out it spiked to around 15-16 before backing off. after seeing that I replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro GS341 and havent seen a problem since. cost $155 from Rapid and came with everything needed to fit and took an hour or so to do in the back yard. cliffs: replace your fuel pump

I think it was the front set I used (not in my car or I would go check for you) but im pretty sure either will work. just have to set the amp up with the proper low pass filter and possibly move the fade on the icc towards the front or rear depending on which leads you use. if you get a chance to take some detailed pics of the boards under the covers that would be great too. I forgot to get any pics when I did it and would love to have another look inside the audio box.