brett_xr6

No Worries mate. I hope it works out for you.

Hi guys, The colour code for Dark Argent is (BAH) This code is used internally at FPV/Ford only. The paint is supplied to FPV by PPG and is a Cobra Mix paint. If you quote that code to PPG they will tell you that their internal code for that colour is atually (2FRFB) I dont know why they have their own code but I can tell you that it is a perfect match. I had my wheels painted in this colour and tested it against a mates BF F6 and it was spot on. It took me about a week or 2 to chase down the code when I was looking. Even my spray painter had trouble. In the end I contacted FPV direct and they were able to help me out. Hope this helps. Brett.

Hi guys, I have been considering an XR8 Bulge for my bonnet. I need a respray after I picked up a few too many rocks country driving. Firstly I am hearing horror stories of the fibre glass bulges cracking etc. Is this the case with most people? Secondly how much was it to graft it onto the steel? (not including paint) Also has anyone in adelaide done it successfully? If so by who? What is the general opinion on putting these bulges on a 6? Is it considered 'try hard' or 'tough'? Cheers, Brett.

Redback, If you are reffering to the Dark Argent paint used on the FPV F6 then its (BAH) For some reason this code is only used internally at FPV/Ford but the paint is supplied by PPG and is a Cobra mix paint. They actually have the colour coded on their system as (2FRFB. I had my wheels painted using this colour/code and it took me a lot of running around to work out what was going on. I have tested it against a mates F6 and it is spot on. Hope this helps. Brett.

I'll second that mate can you also send me the price for short rate shocks. Does anyone know if SSL on front and rear is street legal in SA? Herrods did say that it would be ok

Even if I went back up to an SL on the front from the SSL would the shocks still have the same problem?

I don't mind the raking look. How long roughly should I expect my stock shocks to hold up?

They are such a good tyre. I agree with the road noise reduction from the factory Dunlops. I've also found on warm days that rocks get stuck in the tyre surface and you can see where they melt in. I'm guesing that they are a softer compond and hence why they are offering more grip.

Hi guys, Just had some King Springs (KFFL-57SSL & KFRL-68SSL) Ultra Low combination installed on my BF XR6. Now that they are on the car it seems that the front sits much lower than the rear and gives a raking look. Is this normal or will the rear settle in a few more days? I know most guys have their cars sitting flat, but does anyone actually go for the Raking look? I was reccomended to put the SSL on the front by Herrod Motorsport rather than the SL because I have an NA car which has less weight over the front wheels than a turbo or an 8. Cheers, Brett.

Hi guys, Good to see a few of you have been busy painting. To answer your question I'm in SA and I just used a mobile painter to spray it after I got the local dealership to remove it for me. The car came with the premium sound system and it has not been converted. The new black paint job is hard to keep clean, but definately worth it, and it gets heaps of comments. I think the next thing on the list would be to have the blue lighting strips custom manufactured in red, just to take it one step further......... Cheers, Brett

Hi guys, Thought I would post some pictures of my engine bay. Now I know there is this snail thingy missing, but I thought I would share anyway. lol I have recently painted/powdercoated most of the parts in the engine bay including (Rockerhead cover, Timing cover, The block, the head, Inlet manifold top and bottom, thermostat, throttle body, engine mounts, engine lifting brackets.....the list just goes on but you get the idea. Feel free to offer your thoughts..... Cheers, Brett.

Hey mate I have attached a couple of pictures of my ICC. Excuse the dust and dirt as it still needed to be detailed when I took the photo. In case you are wondering it set me back about $150 to have painted. Hope this helps. Oh and not sure if you already know this but if you have the premium sound like mine check in your footwells for light sockets. The full wiring is in place and all you need to do is purchase some $3.00 globes.

Hey mate are you still looking for examples of painted Fascias? I did mine about 2 months ago in piano black. Painted the top triangle wedge/fascia/gear stick surround/rear vent.......basically went down the guts of the car with it. If you are still keen I will try and get some pics for you. I am pretty happy with the result, especially on a black car..... Cheers, Brett.

Hi guys, What colour are the LED lights behind the see through blue sections of the fascia. Is it just white lights or do they use blue ones? Also do they use blue behind the buttons eg (demister,windscreen,footwell,face) I am looking at changing it all from blue to red now that I have painted my icc fascia gloss black. Was thinking of removing the blue strips and having custom laser cut red acrylic put in its place or hunting down a set of orange ford territory ones and trying to tint them red somehow........???? Also a bit of a long shot, but is it possible to change the colour of the onscreen graphics ie the blue volume bar to red? I know this probably sounds crazy, but I just want to try something different as a project. Cheers, Brett.

Hi guys, I used to get zapped every time I got out of my parents BA XR6. When I got my BF I decided to go for the leather option instead and it hasn't got me once. It must have something to do with the fabric that Ford use. If you have the standard cloth trim and you keep getting zapped the best thing to do when getting out of the car is to firstly touch your fingers on the inside steel/paintwork of the door. Hold onto this the whole time you are getting out of the car. That way you are earthed and shouldn't recieve a ZAP Cheers, Brett.

Senna, Would the KFFL-57 and the KFRL-68SSL be the better option for me then. Its not quite as low and might be better for the car with a stock damper setup??? I read some of your other posts saying that the SL front were a bit annoying. Will the combination I listed above look any good, and will the front still be a bit lower than it is presently? By the way I am running 18 inch rims Cheers, Brett

Hi guys, I want to lower my BF MK1 XR6 Sedan with some King Springs, but the codes seem to be confusing me a little. I am looking at KFFL-57SL Front and KFRL-68SSL rear. I thought that this combination would have meant "super low fronts with super super low rears". Apparently this combo is Ultralow???? Super low to my understanding is KFFL-57 and KFRL-68SSL???? Are the KFFL-57 just a direct replacement spring of the XR6 ie same ride height just stiffer and the SL version lowers it? Do people find the SL version on the front too low that they just end up being a pain to drive around? Could someone please help me undertsand which springs are best for my car and which ones are legal in South Australia?

Around town I usually get anywhere from 11.8 to 12.5 depending on how hard I push on the go pedal. On the highway I average 8.5 and lower than that in the non 110kmph zones. Also note that mine is a 6 speed manual. Cheers, Brett.

Its probably been asked before but what is fuel economy like after putting in the cams and getting a custom tune? I'm having problems finding decent info on it all.

Well my head gasket seems to have gone again under warranty in my BF XR6. Looks like it wasn't put back together correctly after the first time a few months ago. I was just wondering since it has to be pulled apart and sent away if it is worth having the head shaved, ported and polished? I don't know anyone who has done this or what results can be achieved. I don't even have any idea of what it would cost to do. Is it safe to do this to a b series? How much could be shaved off the head so that it still remains reliable? I'm just thinking about it, because its a now or never thing really. Cheers, Brett.

Hi guys I'm running a BF XR6 NA with a 6 speed manual. I've done a few mods which have bumped it from 139rwkw stock to 170 rwkw at the last dyno day. My favourite mods were definately the exhaust/headers. I noticed instant power when these were put on, but the suprising mod was not the air intake but rather the underpulley. As soon as that went on the car everything seemed like it was a package. Good power and throw through the gears. When I run the stock test I didn't realise but the BF had a head gasket problem and the rear bushes in the diff were blown to pieces. This was all fixed under warranty and I'd imagine would have given a better result on the dyno. (before you comment on the diff I purcahsed the car like that and was not doin any burnouts. Was dissapointed that the NRMA didn't pick up these problems though......I wonder what they did look at hehe) Mind you I did notice that when I put on the 245/18's that it wasn't quite as quick off the mark, but I guess that's the price you pay for cornering and grip........ I haven't tested but I would say even without the custom tune, which will come soon that I would be very close to keeping side by side with a stock turbo. Especially if the turbo hasn't spooled up, otherwise we are all still probably stuffed. lol I have been very happy with the results of the mods and at the end of the day we are driving around in something that has more than the power of the previous model AU V8. Not bad out of a straight 6 and brilliant at the fuel pump.

XRSics, I have installed the under pulley on my BF XR6 NA and I have to say it works really well. I noticed the difference as soon as it was installed. I can safely say that all other components like AC and power steering run perfect and you will notice no difference in the way the perform. Basically because the pulley is lighter and smaller than the factory one the engine needs to use less of its power to run those accessories. This means that it can then conserve it for extra performance and econonmy. Basically you are not making any "extra power" from what you already have, but you are just redirecting it into useable kws by not handing them oer to you A/C etc. that's where you see the extra 9rwkws on paper. For the price of the item it is a bargain given that I paid around $2500 for a stainless steel herrod exhuast which gave be roughly 15rwkw give or take. I would definately reccomend the product to anyone.

Sorry guys but i am going to have to pull out on the group buy. I've had some stuff come up, and its not good timing at the moment. I hope you get your quota soon.

Until the car warms up a little you have to be pretty tame with the clutch otherwise you will hear a lot of noise out of the gearbox. I've even noticed that trying to drive at 20-25 through a carpark can be a nightmare. It sometimes likes first other times it likes second, but will usually hop and jump around in each. You feel like an idiot, but its just the way the box is. From the outside it must look like a L plater on its bad days. The trade off is that it is not smooth, but in return its virtually bullet proof. I'm still having trouble trying to make a nice smooth quick downshift on the highway from either 5 or 6 back into 3 where the power zone is. You have to be gentle otherwise it won't slot into the gate. From 5 I have to pull back towards neutral ease the pressure on the stick and then go again for a quick change into 3rd. If I am lucky it is sometimes smooth.......I wish it would let me do a complete swing action.

Mine was making a very loud clunk when changing, which turned out to actually be all 3 of my diff bushes. They had all craked in half, which was not good. Even after the car has been repaired under warranty it still makes a clunking noise. Its just they way the car is setup. Its by no means perfect or smooth, but you would have a hard time breaking that gearbox. Its as tough as nails.