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Panda Eyes

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Everything posted by Panda Eyes

  1. just bought some g locks from ebay- feel dumb paying $30 for 3 grams of steel but what are ya gunna do?
  2. then the dump and exhaust, then the different wiring loom, then the fuel system to suit..... there would be plenty on top of this as well. if it could not be a diy thing, and at $60 an hour for labour on top of materials.... dont kid yourself, this would be a total pain in the arse that would not be cheap....
  3. I had actually considered getting a tack weld on each side of the turbo to manifold, but thought- 'nah that's stoopid'. you just confirmed that....
  4. yeah I saw them, but that would stop the nut from coming loose, but the studs can also work their way out the manifold. the glocks wouldnt fix that would they?
  5. so every few weeks I hear the familiar ppppppffftttttt sound coming from the engine bay. damn turbo nuts coming loose all the time. any suggestions for keeping them tight?
  6. yeah dont like it. the ba/f fpv style would look alot better imo. but kudos for havin a go.
  7. yeah I reckon 'good on ya'. do something different and it makes things interesting. make sure you put plenty of progress pics up. if youve just extended wires, I cant see any reason it wont work. just dont do anything that lets the smoke out of the icc. ive let the smoke out of plenty of electronic things, and its usually REAL expensive to have put back in....
  8. yeah, expect it to be at least $15- 20k by the time you've finished. add that to the price of the car originally and youve sunk close to $40k probably. compare that to a shmik bf typhoon or a nice g6e turbo or fg xr6t- what would you prefer?
  9. welcome solly. do a search in the audio forum theres plenty of info about hooking up an aftermarket dvd player and converting the signal so the screen can display it. oh and the correct term is 'lay-man's'. have fun in our forum dude
  10. Panda Eyes

    306kw

    hhhmmm...... turbo lag is always gonna be there a bit. but it definitely shouldnt feel like a slug. do you have a dyno slip you could post. we could see whats going on with afr's etc. oh yeah, and
  11. Panda Eyes

    306kw

    the tuner should have checked how the valve springs were coping before handing you back the keys... or maybe he did and dialed in a lower rev limit to compensate. springs and bigger pump should be next on your list and will allow for a SAFE 300+ tune. talk to the tuner asap and get some answers. if they are not clear then go to someone else...
  12. I went for some vdo dayton 6.5 inch splits. they are awesome, I have 2 sets in each front door in my ef. I went for them after reading a test fast 4's did a few years ago. damon dupriez put em on a test bench up against many others including kef car at $500 a pair, and they came out near first. I picked up 2 sets on clearance for $60.00 each. it realy pays to do some research, often there are very high quality 'underdogs' that outperform better known brands.
  13. that's the exact reason that I asked the question in the first place- to get the correct answer before I made a costly mistake. sicklaser- no probs with your reply- after you did I wired it all in with no probs. chich- you just keep on assuming with the wiring in your car- I'm sure you'll do just fine....
  14. I too enjoy the benefits of a 'hi flowed' cat.
  15. no offence intended, but you'd have to be pretty stoopid to assume that a factory wire is negative just because it has a black trace...
  16. did anyone end up installing one of those surge tanks? how'd they go?
  17. I dunno, they look a bit funny not going all the way around the light....
  18. I didnt know 16psi on a stock ba bottom end was 'safe'???
  19. doesnt quite work that way champ. there is only a plug on the speaker itself. no + or - marks, just one way that they can be plugged in. there is no way of knowing which wire is positive. any one?
  20. hi could someone please tell me which wires are the positive for the front and rear speakers and maybe the sub as I am replacing all these. its a ba cheers scott
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