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Panda Eyes

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Everything posted by Panda Eyes

  1. boost happens under LOAD not throttle position. eg. accelerate to 4500rpm foot flat to floor. full boost (whatever that happens to be). now accelerate to the same speed/ same gear SLOWLY. there will be no boost, infact it will likely show vacuum. it's all about load.
  2. because this is a forum dude, where people are entitled to thier opinions. if you dont like reading them, dont log in. and if you dont want opinions, dont post a vid on you tube!
  3. what??? either he spun the wheels for 1/2 track or waited 2 seconds before hitting the gas. a t with over 500rwkw will do easy 10's...
  4. yeah mine is starting to slip every now and then. once you start to chase more power start budgeting for a rebuild. $3000 would be enough for a sweet box with mild high stall that could handle at least 400rwkw.
  5. Panda Eyes

    311rwkw

    the 4 speed is great for just leaving it in drive and flooring it. let it do the work. it'll shift just fine.
  6. I believe the console needs to come out do do this. if I heard correctly then this means the 2 front seats need to come out as well to gain access to side screws of the console.
  7. because if I needed to replace the bottom end, theres no way I would put another ba bottom end in, so with out knowing the history of the car, if a diff bottom end has ever been put in, it would be reasonable to think a bf motor may have been used.
  8. you'll find the boot rattles a most probably the sealer they put between the frame and outer panel has come loose. if youre serious then try to remove it and add some new sealer to it. if youre gonna use a caulk like substance then make sure its NEUTRAL cure. acetic cure will eat at your panels causing rust. and NEVER use expanda foam as it will get between the frame and boot lid and dent the panel badly.... :banghead2:
  9. hey guys, just had a thought: we all know that after 06/ 06 build date ford used typhoon bottom ends in all xr6t's, but due to car's often being modified, and not always knowing the history when buying a second hand car, is there any way of finding out a build date of the engine, to see if it is a post 06/06 build? obviously engine number, but can ford give any details from it?
  10. well that would be more of a whine, not a hum wouldnt it?
  11. not so sure about that. I reckon he'd walk all over you to 80k's then when your car actually gets on full boost in second or third- when they realy come alive- it'd be all over and he'd be off throttle by then, quite happy with his win. that'd be the traffic light drag scenario imo.
  12. fuel pump? normally can hear mine at idle but not over engine noise while moving....
  13. I reckon do it. I put twin 4" double walled tips on mine. 3" looked just too small. if you have the power to back it up why not? some will say 'never on a falcon' but what do they want- every car on this site to be carbon copies? come on- isnt the idea of modding our cars to stand out- to have something unique? if you like it that's all that counts.
  14. yeah I did it all myself. not that hard, just time consuming. sand, sand some more, then some more, then some more........
  15. oi bro- you shoulda been sleepin wit her sista at dat time o night!!!
  16. I hate that the factory use steel woosh plugs when it's just as cheap to go for brass....
  17. phone around the wreckers dude. I'm sure there would be a few pranged ones that had leather. you might need to look beyond the dust though. then you could try to sell your cloth seats on the big worldwide garage sale....
  18. yeah dynamat is good stuff, but pretty expensive if someone wants to get the best they can from their system cheaply.
  19. if you want excellent bang for buck in an amp, you cant go past jaycar's response. excellent bit of kit which puts out more rms per channel than rated.
  20. the broom is an interesting feature- so the theme is 'road worker' then? and the number plate 5OUBLOW (second pic) would be perfect for the commy!
  21. hi guys. I thought I would start a thread with some tips for easily and cheaply improving the sound quality. I have been an audiophile for a long time and have a BIG stereo in my ef. but for the ba I dont want to go all out, just a reasonably good improvement over stock premo sound. my plan is simple- replace all speakers and maybe a bigger amp for the sub. because of not installing big everything, it is handy to know some tips on improving the sound. so that leads me to starting this thread, to help anyone to get the best out of their system without too much cost or effort. feel free to add your own tips if you like..... one of the easiest and cheapest ways of improving the sound of any speaker is to spray some body tar/ sound deadener on the panel behind the speaker. the body panels are thin and vibrate quite a bit, so adding some weight and 'soft' material to them will improve the sound- often by a surprising amount. when installing new speakers and the door trims are off, spray a liberal ammount of underbody tar to the inside of the door panel behind where the speaker will sit and you will get the best result from that speaker. the only downside is that its a bit smelly for a few days. enjoy! some pics of my ef install if your interested:
  22. does it knock only when turning in one direction or 2? mine is the same after a big pacemaker dump installed, but only on left turns??? annoys the jebuth out of me....
  23. reckon I might take the whole shebang off from the head... do it right once and for all... I hope!
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