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Everything posted by Panda Eyes
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hey guys, I would like to do the rca mods to my icc, but none of the links work any more. I know there are a few guys who are interested on here, so if anyone has the guide, it would be appreciated if it can be linked or pm'ed cheers scott
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Adding Rca Pre-outs To Icc Guide Is Here
Panda Eyes replied to quadie's topic in Audio/Visual Workshop
I think ralph wiggum had one? -
Turbo Conversion On A 05 Fairlaine Ghia 97% Complete
Panda Eyes replied to FairlaneG's topic in All Other Vehicles
I always liked the idea of doing this. nice work -
I wouldnt use more powerful speakers in the back, than you have in the front. someone used the term 'rear fill'. that is correct. you only need something so there is no 'hole' in the rear sound. why? go to a (good) venue to hear a band- close your eyes. where is the sound coming from? that's the goal of a good sq (sound quality). to have a natural 'live' sound. not to be cofused with a spl (sound pressure level) systems which just need to be as loud as possible. get a good quality set of 2 way speakers for the back. good quality doesnt have to be expensive. id go with something like this: http://www.ebay.com....=item2eb88e5301 http://www.ebay.com....=item2a113c153d http://www.ebay.com....=item1c206dff6d so in the good old days when we used to put 6 x 9's or 7 x 10's in the rear parcel shelf, we impressed our mates because it was loud, but in reality the sq sucked. if you want a killer loud system, that still sounds great, then put 2 sets of component speakers in the front doors (only use 1 tweeter though), using your 4 channel to power them, or even better, if your amp is 2 ohm stable, then only use 2 channels to power the 4 speakers. ask me how if your not sure of the wiring config to do this. then use the factory amp to power the rear speakers, or just the heard unit (which should provide 25wrms or to each speaker). mate that to a good 10 or 12 inch subwoofer in a properly sized box, and your system will rock.
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How To Make A Custom Fibreglass Subwoofer Box
Panda Eyes replied to peter_125's topic in Audio/Visual Workshop
nice job mate. I would also make a resin 'milkshake' from resin and fine bits of mat and pour it in to each corner of the box for strength. remember that the sub will try to push the sides out every time it thumps. also remember to check the specs of your sub to make sure the box is the right size. a cheap sub can sound awesome when in the right enclosure, and a high quality sub can sound crap in the wrong one... if the box is not big enough, then you can 1/2 fill the box with wadding or similar to 'fool' the sub into thinking the box is bigger... this will also help if the bass sounds 'muddy' well done mate -
nothing to show yet- unless you want to see my boot empty.... will be soon though...
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so excited- just won an auction on ebay for one of these: http://www.bestcovery.com/jl-audio-w6v2-12w6v2-12-car-subwoofer these are hard to get, unless you live in the us of a. I got a boxed one (will sell the box again) for 212.00. it is second hand but a1 cond. the only other one of these on aussie ebay is $599.00 will look up specs for box now, so I can plan where it will go (depends on size required), and if ill go sealed (most likely) or ported.....
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actually slight change of plans... found a brand new (bit old school) clarion apx1300 mono amp in my shed. forgot about it actually. bought it brand new a couple years ago from a clearance place on ebay. , but got on google to check the specs again, and it will deliver 400wrms into 2 ohms. so I will get 2 4 ohm subs and run them in parallel wiring, to deliver the full 400 to both of them... also ordered 10 m2 of sound deadener/ panel stabilizing sheet today. will do the doors/ boot/ boot lid/ floor in this stuff. the new school way of doing it is to only apply to 25% of the panel area and them use mlv (mass loaded vinyl) on the doors just behind the trims... will start designing the boot/ dash/ door trims tonight... time to get the paper and pencils out...
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I would go gt and disconect bimodal exhaust (not really a mod) and a tune for 370rwkw...
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im using infinity kappa 6.5" components for the front stage. undecided on subs, but may well go a couple JL 12 inch, or even rockford fosgate 10's. I really want crisp/ punchy bass. im a bit over drawling / rolling/ sloppy bass now. will be feeding 1000wrms to them, so should pump pretty hard. I'm unsure of a centre channel for the front- still researching that- as well as a 3 way set up for the front too.... thinking 3-4inch mids below the a pillars on the dash to complement the components.... also gonna do pre outs on icc, with dvd conversion to colour premo screen and screens in headrests.... not in a rush with this one, although I am ready to start now. the build is also gonna be user friendly, with no full boot so I cant do anything else with it, but definitely not a stealth build either. should look pretty trick when done, with a definite theme throughout the whole car. will keep you's posted with pic's and details etc...
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well being my car is still off the road for 3.5 months till I get my licence back, I pulled it apart ready for my big stereo install. ive been meaning to get around to it for years, and have collected a bit of stuff over the time, but have not gotten around to it due to other commitments. so today, pulled off door trims and removed previously installed components, boot is now devoid of my interim sub box and other stuff, and now completely empty and cleaned ready for sound dampening, rear parcel shelf- same. the plan is for a quality build this time. I have done a half arsed one in this car already a few years ago, just to upgrade the factory stuff. I have been running a 15" sub, so had plenty of boom boom, but now am after a sq system. will be plenty of custom fibreglass bits, and some tricky stuff ive been eyeing off on a us audio forum. I doubt this will be a quick built. im expecting 18 months to do everything properly...
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well being my car is still off the road for 3.5 months till I get my licence back, I pulled it apart ready for my big stereo install. ive been meaning to get around to it for years, and have collected a bit of stuff over the time, but have not gotten around to it due to other commitments. so today, pulled off door trims and removed previously installed components, boot is now devoid of my interim sub box and other stuff, and now completely empty and cleaned ready for sound dampening, rear parcel shelf- same. the plan is for a quality build this time. I have done a half arsed one in this car already a few years ago, just to upgrade the factory stuff. I have been running a 15" sub, so had plenty of boom boom, but now am after a sq system. will be plenty of custom fibreglass bits, and some tricky stuff ive been eyeing off on a us audio forum. im starting a new thread in audio section, if anyone wants to follow the build.
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dipped .or wrapped?
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win /\
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yeah stock ones will flutter sik. mine has a real loud flutter... not tu tu tu, but sort of sha sha sha... lol. you cant hear it cause of all the anti-noise/ pollution/ fun crap they put on.. as soon as I whacked a massive hole in the front of the stock airbox you could hear it loud.... so prol a hole somewhere in a hose...
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yeah it does look tops.... is a killa beemer though.....
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Opinions On Shadow Chrome Dark Argent 20S
Panda Eyes replied to pelagonia_F6's topic in Wheels and Tyres
agreed. white with dark argent= win. -
yep, to a ford dealer and tell em you dont want it back till they sort it out. make it clear you know it is under warranty, and that you will take it there again if there are further problems. that way they will actually give a stuff and get it right the first time.... hopefully
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would have to see it to be convinced...
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its a long thread, but if you love car audio, and anything done with incredible quality and attention to detail.... http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/30321-one-badassed-bmw-330-a-3.html
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I would be inclined to agree. if audi a4's can pull it off, then fg's can.
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how so?