Panda Eyes

dont buckle those spokes man... I got on a mountain bike for the first time a couple years ago after 15yrs or so, and buckles the rim jumping a set of stairs... ah well, nothing a double walled rim couldnt fix...

great idea with the aux input...

ok- cause you said so...

having said that I dont think ill go 'black as the ace of spades', but almost black... also have black leather too so everything is black in the car, cept the normal silver bits- dash spears, icc etc.

cheers mate, but im not in melbourne. its not too hard to wrap in vinyl, so I reckon that's the way ill go...

yep pics are always good for ideas. cheers edit: also im not into carbon fibre. maybe if it was an evo...

I also like a sealed box, both for size and control of the driver...

yep. very loud sub bass can be created with 1x 12" or equally with 2 or 3x 6.5"...

I like the way you are going 2 6.5" for subwoofers. people often make the mistake that thinking bigger subs will make lower bass...

torque is hard to measure on a chassis dyno, and often not accurate, as it measures tractive effort, rather than torque. a torque reading is just a tuning tool in this application just like rwkw... an engine dyno is much more accurate.

yeah you will smash the 300... do you have a high flow cat? if not you could get a 'high flow stock' from bruce......

I could wrap in vinyl, I will be doing the a pillars anyway as I will be fibreglassing speaker pods...

so I ripped out my headlining today, while sound deadening my car for the stereo build im doing, and its pretty fagged. my car was in a prang before I got it, the repairs are spot on to the mm, but it looks like it was taken out and put back in, and not very well. so it looks like ill need to replace it, so what do y'all reckin. original beige? or black, with all related pillars done the same? ideas welcome...

watching my son drive off on his first outing by himself- got his p's this morning...

I havent heard of maestro... interesting..

500 will get you some nice equipment- budget 200-250 on speakers and the rest on decent cable and maybe a bit of sound deadening try ebay america (cheaper than aus by far- even with delivery) focal/ mb quart (usually like a decent amount of power fed to them though)/ infinity/ alpine (type r). get on the web and read some reviews to see what people prefer...

looks good brah...

just bought my last 2 channels of amplification for my front stage. this will power the 3" full range- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170790088584?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3726wt_1037 so just got to receive the goodies, and then its time to build... have a sheet of 17mm ply being delivered tomoro, then need to get hold of a heap of fibreglass supplies, then time to start building..

yoo ohmos better put some piccies up quick smart when you dip your stuff, some of these blaze orange bits are gonna be interesting...

woo hoo only ten weeks to go till im behind the wheel again. and my lad gets his p's tomoro so even more freedom! saaaweet....

I am running 17-20psi. 364 on e85. just be aware- you play, you pay!

have been shopping for the 3rd speaker for my 3 way front stage- and after plenty of research have just ordered these: http://www.madisound...x-3-full-range/ one of the best on the market for this application... Comments: This is without a doubt the highest performing 3" I've come across, at least on a few fronts. The motor is an underhung neodymium design and the cone is thin (and fragile) formed aluminum. The only negative is a slightly ragged top end that may take some filter work if used full range, but I'd generally recommend a cheap and small neo tweeter placed close and crossed over high. There's a lot on the positive side, like high sensitivity, a clean low end and smooth midrange response. The frame is cast with ventilation under the spider, but users will have to pay close attention to airflow behind the cone - It's even more important to chamfer the inside baffle opening and in this case likely use a thinner baffle material as well.

nice work mate. I am also going with a false floor, hinged so the spare can be accessed.... did you use a sub box design program or good ol tape measure?

always loved the f6- now I love the gt.... awesome photos.

not sure, but ill let you know soon...