Panda Eyes

bf tailshaft from a wrecker? should be cheap as chips...

fair enough, but the smaller turbo is mainly the reason. or maybe I would be better off with an fg turbo? killer take off, but lower top end. that's how I imagine a stock hot side to behave? more power low in the rev range COMPARED to peak power with a stock hot side, less power low in the rev range COMPARED to peak power with a big hot side, but higher peak power.... eg: 250rwkw low revs- 350rwkw high revs with stock hot side 250 rwkw low revs- 400rwkw high revs with big hot side. not more low end, but not less? sound about right?

im still in the baby stage with the imprint. 6 channels though right? if nothing else I can pass through some rcas on the 4 channel amp and run the same signal to the 2 channel. level will be the same from the 660, but I can adjust the amp level to suit volume requirements...

so should I be putting on a stock dump to help with back pressure? I cant see a bigger less restrictive hot side hurting performance...

looks nice. have fun ,but be careful..

lol

that beef wellington looks perfectly cooked...

nice. I havent played with the 660 yet, but am realy looking forward to it with the 3 way front stage. from everything I have researched, it should do the trick nicely...

injectors, fuel pump, sct or similar, and tune.

man I love e85.....

are you sure that's the power? 'mine was somewhere in the low 200s' stock.... maybe contact the mob that rebuilt it and ask what there advise is?

hey anyone have a space saver spare they want to swap for my full size? I want a space saver so I can have more room for a bigger sub box in the spare wheel well. spare is as new.... cheers folks

210 stock as a rock. sa dyno though lol

front and rear speaker wires from the icc will be fed to the alpine. using the rear only may limit the frequency range sent to the processor. so will use all 6 channel inputs.

cheers mate. I have to update soon. the second layer of sound proofing is done, all wires run, carpet is back in and front seats too! piccies and more write ups soon...

that's harsh dags...

sorry im in adelaide...

what ever you decide , remember- the cheapest way is the dearest way....

nice- will surprise a few punters out there when its done...

yeah you will prol ruin it. there are long clips attached to the headlining either end of the sunroof, but the material is just stuck to the front and rear. mine tore when I carefully prized it away in those spots. I sound deadened all the roof I could get to, but did not remove the sunroof itself, so there is some panel above the sunroof mechanism that I could not get to...

I had a haro fst first. bought it saving up working at myer for 100 a week... then went to a haro sport... was full into freestyle, front wheel hops, that trick where you go up on the front wheel, and spin the frame around and around- cant remember what its called. had some freestyle vids of punks in the us freestyling in public. pretty funny realy. how awesome was the movie 'rad' though!

defect....

yeah its not too bad. is alot easier with everything out of the car!

progress over the last couple days... head lining was a bit saggy and crappy, due to being removed and reinstalled by the last owner... half the foam stayed on the roof, half with the lining, so scraped most of that off... will have to replace the headlining, so will do it black, and all the pillars too. a little sound proofing first though... now time for some wiring. I need to run all the wiring I will need to go from front to back, so started with all the high level signals from the icc and going to the sound processor, which will be in the boot... these are behind the glove box.... mainly. what isnt behind the glove box, is the front driver side speaker wires... so out with the icc for a looksy. nup, not there. I looked, and looked and looked, but could not see where they run to the drivers door. the molex plug is non accessible, without taking the fuse box and god knows what else out, so that wasnt an option. so the only way I could see to get around it is to take the signal from in the door itself, and route it back into the cabin. I ran a second wire trace through the door and into the cabin, to run the high level signal wires, plus the new speaker wires from the amplifier... then attached the front and rear passenger, and rear driver wires to signal wires running to the boot... this is how I twisted the pairs... now time to go out and run some more wires...