RIP85

pretty sure fg sumps don't need to be hole sawed to fit the the 16mm studs

the rear of the sump to clear the studs I pissed the kazza off runs a wavetrac lsd rated to 1500hp now

https://youtu.be/xYxTQArEn0w

I went all out got the diff technics cv's as well after 1 track day the kazza lsd decided to sh*t its self for the 4th time in 6 years time for a wavetrac

there gapped to.55 my tuner spoke to herrod about this issue its happened with other cars a well.

be careful with the Herod spark boosters have had them advance the timing on my motor and this hasn't been the only case of this happening. We have ended up just gapping the plugs down and disconnecting it altogether

well I ended up upgrading the rear instead of going haltech. 1400hp axles twin diff bush setup adjustable upper control arms with cat600 front bushes and superpro bushes everywhere else. hopefully in next couple months get 17's with some mt's and hit willow

1400hp axles

touch wood 1000rwhp through a t56 no drams yet maybe clutch issues but that's a different story

standard never changed looking at the 1400hp ones now depending on if I need to go haltech or not

Commo Spec Brah had to get my bogan on.

why spend the dosh on a bottom end to put a sh*tty top end on it just imagine dropping a valve and having to do it all again. I didn't take the risk and would never for the price of a strip down and inspection

ah I got both diff hats just havent fitted the independant one yet might have to get onto it cheers

I got a steel hat waiting in cupboard I went the cat spec bushs nolthane rear and it already had the malwood diff hat. Yet to break the standard axles and diff bolt with this combination but shes all over the shop on the 900hp tune. wondering if fitting the diff hat would make a diffrence

https://www.facebook.com/MicksMotorsport/posts/872613476136925 I have my tuner looking into this as I want to run my flex sensor with a computer that can talk to it

Yeah I believe the main cause was clearances weren't correct as they were under a thou on the bearings now its setup with just under two thou. So the motor isnt as tight plus theres no fuel mixing with the oil.Just get the rods rifled drilled and should be sweet. we also had some issues with the atomic oil pump and oil pressure which we contributed to the rods being rifle drilled. But ended up being the atomic oil pump needing the spring and valve adjusted to accommodate the ported housing. Your running just the spool gears so should be all good

yes from the bigend to little end heres a picture from a slandered f6 bf rod that has them defiantly worth doing as the manly rods don't have them. atomic rods howard rods also have the oil feed from the bigend. I had excessive wear on my bearings in the original motor but may have been due to them not fitting the oil ring correctly and contaminating the oil it was only 3500km old

hhahah that's why im not married I chose the other path was engauged hah

Id be checking those rods they dont have the oil hole drilling in them I had to get mine rifle drilled in my engine I run same pistons and rods. my original engine builder ran them without and caused havoc

2000cc injectors even with the ida 1000 maybe 280 to a tank of fuel I wouldnt go anything over an atomic cam 4s for daily driver

4.5 atomics with fixed gears 240km to a tank when running 98 fuel 60kw gain over bf ams

clutch setup is a sore point it has a twin plate button rated at 1000hp but it fried on the 707 tune. Ordered a better one half organic half button 3g clutch went to fit didnt fit as we drilled and dowled crank to suit the previous flywheel this one ran a diffrent bolt hole configeration. So its got the twin button in it until npc custom make me a flywheel for this nerw organic button twin plate hopefully will be done by march.

its a t56 manual so more for track than strip little worried about snapping my axles on the strip