Jeremy

+1 to that ^^^^ hahaha

mods delete, search function played games with me

All, I'm looking into turbo upgrade for my FG F6, and have noticed these hybrid turbos are getting some good feedback lately in comparison to the gtx3582 and pte turbos. Some of these turbos are achieving high 9's with supporting mods (500rwkw) Now a lot of shops are keeping tight lipped on the actual specs, which I think is sort of weird because if you buy something you expect to know the finer details of what your actually purchasing. Other than buying one and pulling it apart, can someone give me the quick run down on what they are modding, and what base turbo they are using? PM me if needed. I'd rather make an well informed choice before spending 3-4k on a turbo upgrade. Cheers fellas

Prob Monsta torque as they've done most of the work to date and word on the street is they do a solid built auto.. might chuck a small convertor in too, see what they recommend.

I ended up skidding every run by the end of it... I lost too many races against gtr's and gave up trying to get traction off the line haha..

450rwkw stever.. It was a great weekend I thought! I'll hopefully be back next year with a built auto, tad more boost and some decent shoes.. then I can really give it to her.

I would argue that.. My cars had 400rwkw for about 3 years.. and more recently, 450rwkw for the last ~6 months... My diff has held up quite well in that time. I don't nanny drive it, but I do maintain it very well. It is loosening up, but its done well for the life its had, and power it was matched to run with. Weather or not the same diff in my FG F6 is used in the BF F6.. I'm not sure, but they have a decent driveline from stock. TOMMO224, If your chasing bigger numbers in the future.. upgrade... if your content with <400rwkw.. get a nice tight / good condition 2nd hand FPV replacement. My 2 cents..

I ended up getting the E85.. got 448rwkw.. but the kicker was the extra ~180nm of torque! (1160NM) Haven't taken it to the track yet, need to build the ZF.. the extra torque and hp has accelerated the destruction of my box by 10 fold! Its slipping 3rd-4th under heavy load and doesn't like to operate in sports mode anymore, have to use manual. Starting to notice a fair bit of heat soak with the PW2 cooler though... after a few runs or hotter days you can tell the difference. I've ordered some aerofroce OBD gauges so ill be able to take some temp readings of intake / manifold temps and see just how efficient the cooler is in diff conditions. I'll post up the findings. I think with the Mickey T's on the back and a built box.. Mid 10's shouldn't be a problem.. it pulls like a train!

haha sweet! which car were you in? I may have a video of you..

nah the car ran fine after I stepped off it and let it settle down.. went back out and did a few more skids with no problems... t It did the same sounding thing before I had the valves changed... but this time it didn't go into limp mode, just made the sound.. So I'm kinda stumped because the new valve springs probably only done less than 10,000kms...(crow cams springs)

Pretty sure this sound is valve floating, just want confirmation? [.video=youtube;KfyyGkTNU_s] [/video.]

how much does the oil pressure change from stock -> modded (400rwkw) -> Built (600rwkw)? Has anyone tracked it before or have an idea base don other posts they've seen?

Can you go into the xcal tuning software and manually change the torque restriction without dyno time etc? My tuner has put this in to save the box, not sure if its classified as a "ZF tune" or simply a setting changed in the engine tune.

nah, I wanted to tune it but my tuner said not worth it otherwise I'll be back the next day for a built box... I was just wondering if anyone here has similar issues before their box let go? I've heard of ZF boxes letting go with 350rwkw, and others running 450rwkw all day every day no issues... it must come down to the tuner (power delivery) and how much they restrict the torque to the box.

I believe there is 3 different rods between the BA/BFMK2/FGF6.. BF got the upgraded rods in the MK2 (or the F6 engine at the time)... Then the FGF6 got even stronger rods again (not the FG xr6t). Correct me if im wrong.

I've started noticing a bit of a whine coming from under the car in recent weeks, I thought it may have been the diff... but after reading a few posts on here, it seems the box can also make a whine when the clutch plates start to wear out? Also, I've noticed when giving the car some herbs in performance mode, it wont hold the gears and will upshift early and not ring out the gear. Maybe this is a fail safe because the box knows the clutch plates cant handle it anymore? The car's done 70,xxx kms and IS running 440rwkw, so I'm guessing its prob at that point where it's inevitably going to fail..

Is it possible to tune in a 2 stage RPM limit for harder launching on the FG's? I was reading up on the supra's using the 2 step tune...they have say a 4000rpm spark cut to launch with, then the ecu changes the RPM cut to ~8-9000RPM once the car moves. I did read the post from Boost69 regarding fuel/cut off between gear changes, and it appears you can tune it out/in... I'm just wondering if anyone has done it yet? would it work on the barra engine in the same fashion as the supras?

FKN hooorah! someone finally said it!!!! dont waste your money on an older car, with 4spd and ba motor... buy an FG, enjoy the luxos of it and up the boost... take the cooler of yours and a few other bits and peices and swap em over!!! the amount you want to spend on your current car + car sale, you can get a decent FG turbo and prob have some left over to get it to 350kw!

Are you referring to the combustion chamber at the top of the piston.. or the cylinder chamber, as in diameter of the piston? its probably better to just use a FG block for easy swapover and build a short motor, then swap everything over from exsiting motor? .

can anyone give me a heads up about what parts from a BA /BF /FG engine are not interchangeable? I'm trying to source parts to build a engine for FG turbo, so just want to know the things to look out for which wont work... few things I have in mind at the moment: 1. Ba/bf head on fg block or vice versa? 2. Standard piston diameter between all 3 heads? 3. Dipstick location on each block? 4. any of the cam gears, chain guides, studs, sumps, oil pickups etc? Cheers in advance!

I couldn't start a thread in the Victoria section, so ill put it here as its relevant to engines... I'm after a Melbourne member / mechanic who has a great understanding of built barra engines to check out a purchase for me? Willing to compensate for the job Pm me if your interested and have available time to check it out - or if you know someone who would do it! Thanks in advance!

thanks mate, just had a quick look! plenty of info to get me going.. legend!

Does anyone know a good book, guide, or write-up on building barra engines? I've got a FG block sitting in my shed, and wanting to build it slowly so when my motor goes I can swap it out. I never done a car engine, but with a little help it shouldn't be too hard. Orrrr does anyone want to be my "phone a friend" buddy and I'll pay in the form of beers

How did she go mate? have you had it tuned and put on the dyno yet??

My car is a fg f6 so I had the stock turbo upgraded.. Not sure on specs but it was maxed out for that turbo.. I'm trying to achieve a 10 sec pass.. Best I could do with 400rwkw was 11.5 but I snapped my tail shaft on the second run.. Since then I got a chromoly one so should be able to launch a little harder.. 440rwkw should get me a 10.9 pass. E85 seems to be the cheapest next step for that.. But like I said if it means I need turbo and intercooler upgrade.. It won't be so cheap..