k31th
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Everything posted by k31th
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+1 on that. Was a great day's driving and was good to put some names/faces to the forum guys. When's the next one, haha
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Got the go-ahead that I'm now not working tomorrow and I can make it to this cruise!!! I'll see you guys tomorrow at a little before 10am :
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3: Today I finally bought the adjusting nut for $28 (was broken and would not adjust) for my left-hand-side handbrake, which was BARELY holding the car at full pressure (with new handbrake shoes) and now 3 hours later, it is correctly adjusted and working on 2-3 clicks of the handbrake. Sense of achievement unlocked! Sore hand from trying to remove a stubborn rear disc brake, also unlocked!
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If I remote desktop my local computer from my virtual machine (which I'm currently viewing on a window within the local computer), will this cause an endless loop in space/time?
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Not a problem. If you need more advice on anything relating to these cars, search first then ask as there are tons of helpful and knowledgeable people here. And welcome to fordxr6turbo.com
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As per above, that exhaust is clearly not a Turbo exhaust, it is only for a naturally aspirated car. Judging by the picture, it is for a naturally aspirated V8. Its not relevant to any of our inline 6's or our turbo's. So this is not going to be relevant to any Ford/FPV manufactured FG model except the XR8's/GT's or a car that was optioned to include a V8. That aside, I believe that picture is for a Expensive Daewoo V8 (I could be wrong on this). If you're looking for a full stainless Turbo exhaust, you're looking at Turbo-back for a lot more than the $1020 here. That's without an exhaust manifold etc etc required for an "entire" exhaust from "headers-to-tip" for a Turbo.
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great cruise fellas, was a very good night and a lot of fun (black BA mkII F6 typhoon, I was driving), with so many cars there (easily 60+ to start with) it was quite entertaining.
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You are correct in thinking that the tiny pipe is made of the same coolant resistant pipe as the one that runs from the coolant overflow bottle in front of the engine (on top of the radiator). You can just replace that lower pipe (with new or old pipe, new can be bought from any decent auto parts store), with new or old hose clamps that hold the pipe tightly but not so tight that the little slits in the hose clamp start eating into the plastic of the pipe. The pipe you put on to replace the old one should be clamped about 1cm from the end of each metal pipe to the proposed strength. It is extremely easy to overtighten it, especially with a socket.
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I know that little pipe... I overtightened mine trying to stop a slow leak and the entire thing just split further, causing a lovely green smelly leak:) I cut a small length off one of my top bottle coolant hoses and replaced that pipe completely with a known working one, didn't over-tighten and its all good now, that could be your problem.
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Bf F6 Stock Intercooler Versus Monza Aftermarket
k31th replied to bluesmuso's topic in FPV PERFORMANCE INC.
From my experience, the standard BA/BF F6 intercooler is good for a fair bit of power, around 270-300rwkw, which is roughly the same as the efficiency of the Monza/wog intercooler. If you can get a BA/BF F6 one cheaper, I would go for that over the Monza one. Only catch is the BA/BF one is standard silver, the Monza one you have the choice of silver or black, so you have to factor the painting cost onto the price of the F6 one if you want to keep it stock looking. hope that helps. -
23, ba mkII f6 typhoon.
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By the way, you can't run the UB CAI with the factory intercoolers cold side, as it takes up that area under the battery. If you are replacing the cold side kit and/or intercooler with any aftermarket one ( that doesn't retain the factory cold side under-battery pipe), the UB CAI is your best bet.
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I was taking the turbo out anyway because I had to at the time. The r-clip should pull off out towards the rear of the car. Push back on the other way obviously but if its held on by a circlip it'll be difficult. Loosening the manifold off does make it tons easier with the access, but you have to be careful not to bend coolant lines and oil lines. Took me about 3 hours to do the whole job of taking the turbo out (have to drop coolant to take it out) and putting it back together.
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Well, if you can loosen all the bolts on the compressor housing that are holding the actuator in place, that's the really easy bit. The hard part is after you get the new one into place (after taking out the R-clip holding the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper) and putting the arm onto the flapper arm/holder, the R-clip must be pushed back on. Very difficult to do with no visual access, but if you persist, it certainly can be done:)
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In the fords I have owned, slightly to the left of the middle marker on the temp is where it sits permanently when the car is up to full operating temperature. If the thermostat isn't stock, then this reading may be higher/lower depending on the thermostat chosen. Going over halfway is highly unusual, in my experience. How long does it take to go back below halfway?
