k31th

You've got that right... ACA... may as well watch your baked beans explode after they've been in the microwave too long, that would be much more informative and much much more entertaining.

I saw this one. It was VL-3747, was a berlina on stock hubcap rims for VL

I haven't even left from Ballarat yet. The HWY isn't that far away .

If you're not installing a headunit, it's not too bad, all you require is a line level convertor for the sub signal to connect to the normal RCA inputs of a traditional amplifier. Alternator whine won't be a problem as long as you don't amplify the standard signal through the speakers. (ground is terrible on the standard radio/headunit/icc so it has whine problems if you amplify the signal even a little above the stock level). Hard to give an accurate figure on installation without seeing it, but it'd be between $50 and $150 I would imagine, depending on what is required. If you bring your car (and subs/sub box) to the prinny on friday night then I'll be able to check it out and give you a more accurate estimate. If you want it to ever pass a roadworthy, the sub box needs to be secured (not absolutely necessary, of course), which can be an issue, so some brackets may need to be purchased etc (not expensive from bunnings or other hardware store).

I bought my Earl's one over 30,000km ago (crimp-style) with no sign of a leak. Just my experience.

Happy to help, MAXout. I do all my own installs and do mate's ones relatively cheap (in comparison to other places). With the B-Series, as TRA1NR said, you have to choose whether you are running off an aftermarket headunit (better choice, but you lose all functionality of the stock units sound output) or are running off the standard system (with the standard system, you need a line level convertor and be prepared to live with some alternator whine). 2nd issue is how big your amplifiers (good mounting positions can be hard to find with massive equipment) are and how big your sub-box is, as the sides/edges of the b-series boot isn't great for mounting any generic-type sub-box, but if you don't mind compromising space in the boot, then any massive box will fit, as the boot is quite massive.

Just got home, was a great night out. Not many cops in the main areas. Thanks for a fun night fellas (and lady)

I'm thinking I'll meet you guys at Waurn Ponds Bunnings at approx 9:30am, but I'll be parking in the public car park as didnt think I could make it to this one until just recently:P lets hope for great weather!

I got up too late to make the Melbourne meet point, I will meet you guys in waurn ponds if possible:) cya there. Message me if plans change, tra1nr.

Thought I'd contribute my experience with HID's. 1. Don't buy cheap and/or no-name brands, do some research on whether people have found this company's set of bulbs useful/effective (forget any other products the company has made). They have a tendency to fail and/or have no warranty periods that you can fall back on. I buy all mine from this guy -> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H4-H-L-HID-Philips-PL-Kit-FALCON-AU-BA-BF-XR6-XR8-/200423636332?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eaa2dfd6c , although he is a little more expensive he uses proper name brands and provides a great follow-up and warranty service. He's in melbourne and if you pay via paypal you get the items the next day or the day after (depending on when he express posts them). 2. All BA/BF/FG falcons run H4 headlights which contain a dual-filament globe, which if you want to retain the full functionality of the wiring/bulb set, you need a "Bi-Xenon" kit if you want this (these are harder to wire/install, as they contain a relay & extra wiring), but they can be easily replaced with the standard H4 globe xenon, although the filament is smaller (much easier to install) 3. 55W is over-rated and pointless, it is not noticeably brighter or more effective tahn the 35w, stick with the 35w as it draws the right amount of current from the crappy ford-factory wiring. 4. MAKE SURE you have some sort of yard-stick to measure the height of your light beams with, as it is difficult to get them into the range of "effective and not blinding" without a guideline of any sort. The top of the "bright spot" on your light beam should line up with the middle of where normal headlights are perfectly aimed (this is best for light production and less people giving you the bird going the opposite direction). 5. Get some parker globes as above (T10 wedge type) to match your colour of the globes better, otherwise you get a little yellow dot in the perfectly white/blue light output. 6. This is the MOST IMPORTANT thing, do NOT use auto-headlights with HID's as it will dramatically lessen the lifespan of the ballasts and/or globes as HID does not like to start up WHEN YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS UNDER ANY KIND OF STRESS (most notably the ignition/starter motor and a powerful stereo). 7. Colour temp, a contentious issue... 4300K is the same as sunlight (most light output), 5000K (tinge of yellow in a mostly brilliant white), 6000K (tinge of blue in a mostly brilliant white), 8000K (bright white with a obvious blue tinge), anything over 8000K doesnt output enough light to be practical in my experience. 8000K was still about 2x the light output of a regular halogen globe. 8. Vibration is bad for ballasts and globes, so make sure when mounting, it is a tight/snug fit. I use extra-large cable ties and I always make sure the bracket holding hte globe in is secured well. I've had just the normal low beam's on both 8000K bi-xenon and 6000K bi-xenon for the last 3 years with no issues.. and even the 8000K have passed a roadworthy, so it really depends who you've pissed off as to how illegal they are deemed. The high beam is a difficult proposition as it takes a little while for HID to "warm up" when turned on for the first time, so expect a 5-10sec delay while your globes warm up after you've flicked the high beam stalk. It is quite difficult to install HID into the driving lights, but that's not to say it can't be done! do so at you're own risk of breaking the ford mounts for globes etc. Anybody wants to know more, feel free to PM me with any questions and I'll be happy to answer

Not even close as Dillz said.

Clearly I blended in well. Haha.

That was me, I think. Definitely didn't recognize you. Red/morone bf xr6t? We were out to about 4:30, got crazy around 2:30-3:00. A couple of monster cars, but more p-platers than usual. Still plenty of fun when the jacks went home. Didn't see many xr6t's other than JD's and riff's.

Dags' avatar suits that video. Pandalicious

that R35 was quite insane off the line... was AtomicG6 out too? didnt see a fast G6 last night... tons of fast cars out last night after about 3am, was crazy... had a few jogs, nothing really organised, but front of the line fun. Got back here in Ballarat around 6am at daybreak, hahaha, worth it though...

1.Kv/J.d 2.scottymadf6 3.Dillz 4.k31th *probably* 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

definitely wouldn't want that, he wouldn't take the risk, I would think.

Let's hope it doesn't spread... or something like that. I'm not sure.

anybody going out on the circuit tonight? I'll be there.

I can't recommend "Mag Wheel & Tyre" in Preston highly enough, they have done a great job for me, my family and my mates... all with great customer service.

might come along to this one...

Sorry you took what I said the wrong way, I had absolutely no problems with the leading xr6t's, I meant the couple of 4wd's and that Honda, that were the problem, bringing the entire pack down to the recommended limits and much lower. Trust me, if I had have lead, the pack would not have been held up. Agreed on the rain making it a challenge though.

Great cruise fellas, was great to meet some of the more dedicated members of the crew here and have some laughs along the way, even if there was a bit of funny business to deal with etc. The rain and stupid leading drivers that would not get out of the way made life difficult, but at least it was challenging.

Luckily I have escaped this pain, with an xcal3 and no ZF, but these car flashing manufacturers are absolute donkeys. The custom software industry can be bought for considerably less than SCT feel necessary to charge for these boxes. As to your theory ratter, if they only crammed perhaps 5mb of memory into the "tiny" flash boxes, perhaps the tune file sizes may perhaps exceed the limit, but at time of production of the xcal1 even, a 2gb flash drive was less than one fifth of the final price of the tune box (2gb would hold over 500 zf and engine tunes by itself, EASILY). Their profiteering in a cornered market disgusts me as a software developer already, but to then double and triple shank their customes like this is just a plain dog act.

Black BA f6 with dark argents, exhaust & 6000K HID. Think I saw you briefly going the opposite direction on chapel st, only saw "tnyhsv", didn't get to hear it. Yeah Trainr, I won't come down too often since ot almost used an entire $90 tank of petrol for one nights driving, since I'm from Ballarat, but the mates I had in the car want to go again tonight, so they might be shouting for fuel. Other than that, won't be making it massively regular thing cruising with a single car, as it is realistically only slightly better than sturt laps here in Ballarat (at least I know I probably have on of the fastest cars on the circuit)