k31th

Impact Driver (in this case... maybe) is just a Hammer driver with extra torque (in a small package), so meh, does the same thing. I've seen it in action (used it), works a treat. Only drilling max to 40mm depth 4-8 holes maximum. Wall mounting of IT & Phone System equipment for customers who don't want their equipment getting f*cked. P.S. Don't try to disappoint me... I'm happy with the purchase. It was a win in my book.

Not to dredge up an old topic, but I couldn't help myself, after using a crappy crappy drill with very "limited" hammering capability to attempt to drill holes into masonry just to mount phone system equipment, the battery would run out before I even got a 20mm deep hole drilled in masonry... I went out and purchased myself a tax-write-off DeWalt DC825 Impact Drill with two batteries and charger... and WOW, this thing has 150Nm of power, for a hand-held drill it has a shedload of power. Only used it a couple of times now, but soooo happy with the purchase. http://www.dewalt.com.au/powertools/productdetails/catno/DC827KL/

Does this mean you are planning on attending, Paul?

might head down to Calder this Saturday...

PookeyMaster, Both the high beam and low beam in an FG mkII are H7 bulbs.

Gary... why must you post this so far away from the actual date... there's no way that I can turn it down... ooh wait, that's a good thing... ok, I'll come along... all four days!!

Yeah, 3 pages ago, roughly... 3 whole replies in a row made logical sense... Not doubting that the rest of the thread has holes too

Good for Turbo's... too bad I won't be driving mine... stupid company car... needs more boost.

What a lovely evening it is... too bad it's Monday tomorrow :(

Not wrong there, Gary. Something tells me that a BIG BUNCH of posts got deleted too, since most of the thread doesnt make much logical sense for the last 3 pages or so.

Hey I just met you, and this is crazy... so the condom broke... abort the baby... did make me LOL

what the? is this directed at me? or somebody else with the same name?

Hey Benny, The ones my brother bought are 100% genuine philips, and the wiring is of a much higher standard than cheaper alternatives, and the light output is nothing short of perfect, but they do cost quite an extensive amount more. (never previously listed in this thread) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Genuine-PHILIPS-H7-6000K-Xenon-35W-HID-CANBUS-Conversion-Kit-/120803164584?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c206e01a8#ht_3355wt_1037 The ones that I buy have genuine philips globes and genuine philips ballasts, but the wiring is the exact same as on cheap counterparts, but I believe it is quite satisfactory and work really well for the H4 hi/lo kit's I've bought for falcons and their reflector globe housings. (previously listed in this thread by myself) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H4-H-L-HID-Philips-PL-Kit-FALCON-AU-BA-BF-XR6-XR8-/200423636332?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eaa2dfd6c#ht_1769wt_1037 Or, if you want a cheap one and are OK with a compromise in quality or the chance of failure etc, then these seem like a good choice (I have some in my work car, and they've only been on for a few weeks, so who knows how long they'll last. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/35w-XENON-HID-Conversion-Kit-Slim-H4-Hi-Lo-Bi-XENON-4300K-6000K-8000K-/280803211328?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41612cf840#ht_12623wt_1065

If only I had taken photo's to show how different it is in an FGII... so... let's see if I can explain it without pictures... H7's from memory, so it is simpler to install than a High-Low kit, in theory... So, the stock globe is held in by a metal bracket that has small metal "v-shaped" bits on each end, that if you turn it slightly anticlockwise, the entire assembly comes away simply, including the plug, bracket and globe. You have to use a flat-blade screwdriver to lever the globe out of this metal bracket, as it holds pretty tightly, then to disconnect it from the wiring itself, you lever up the underside edges of the metal bracket to get them off each side of the plastic plug and the metal bracket comes away from the plug... Firstly you can't get the bracket over all the wiring all the way up to the bulb itself because the opening isn't big enough for the bigger plastic clips to fit through, so further up the wiring (closer to the bulb base) I cut each wire (noting which is which first) and slid the bracket over and re-crimped (solder if you want) after the bracket was in place. Now comes the difficult bit... the metal bracket which grips the bulb base has a very small opening at the back, which doesn't allow room for a traditional HID bulb (with its plastic housing behind the metal bracket) to fit through, it is too fat, basically... What I did was file back the edges of the plastic on the sides of the HID bulb base in accordance with the rectangular opening on the back of the metal bracket and slipped the bracket over this. Takes a bit of doing, but it's not impossible. If the bracket gets bent, you have to bend the "v-shaped" bits on the end back so they have pressure on the original "L-shaped" holders. This then holds the bulb correctly in place. It's almost the same steps as with the B-series with the waterproof cover, you have to cut a hole in the middle to be able to slide it over all the wiring and then the globe housing where it is to do it's job. Another minor issue is that the factory loom doesn't have a distinct pos/neg on it, so either check with a multimeter, or plug in the HID one way and test it, if it doesnt work, go the other way, and mark one of the factory wires with tape or some other indicator. Once this is all done, tuck away/zip-tie the wiring loom and refit the stuff you took off to get access to the bulbs and hey presto!!! no need to re-aim with projector headlights (if the factory aim was correct). Enjoy your HID's that hardly filled yellow-ish beam is now bright and full of a white (or blue) light of the HID and your driving at night will be 10x better than with Halogen's.

I'll bring all of my tools, including jack and jack stands etc. but not my car (maybe). Installed HID into my brothers FGII GT last night, the new projector globe mounts are a little tricky for HID installation, but worth checking if he will bring his car down.

Talk about having it in the middle of nowhere... anyway. could it be further from my house? lolzzzz luckily everything is and I MIGHT come along to this one. But not in my car...

basically any reasonably sized town, yeah. Bendigo, Ballarat and Geelong are all similar in these aspects.

Haha freeze, yes. P platers will hit the "main" road of their home town and do "laps" or "mainy's" Girls between 17 and whatever age and usually more girls than guys out. But it does depend on what you are interested in. Haha

The only thing about the car culture is that it is almost completely limited to v6 commodores driven by p platers, but sturt laps are not too bad for something a whole lot closer than the prinny Can't speak too highly of the nightlife though, but I'm not a fan of nightclubs/pubs in general, so my opinion isn't really worth much on that subject.

None taken mate. This isn't the worst place to live and work. Definitely not the sticks. Although you do not have to go far to make it to the "sticks"

I did a fair bit of go karting back when I was too young for the modified ones at ace karts, best FAST karts I found were Top Kart in Epping. 80km/h and the types need to be properly warmed up and the brakes lock Up if you go too fast into the corners. makes for lols

For farks sake. Can't make it. Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Thank you to those soldiers who lost their lives in battle, for our current freedoms and luxuries that we take for granted today. The ANZAC's changed our lives in one way or another. And at the going down of the sun, we WILL remember them. Lest we forget.

For B series, you can get a socket on the black adjusting knobs quite easily, from memory you can use a 10mm socket on it. Grips quite nicely and makes nice fine adjustments on both width and height. For both FG's, you're looking at using a (maybe) 8mm Allen key style bit, again if in a socket, makes nice fine adjustments.

That black wire I connected to the bolt that is holding down the radiator mount arm bit. You can use any chassis mount point nearby to your ballast mount point, but be sure to scrape away the paint a bit so that there is adequate electrical connection (this is quite necessary for HID's). If you have a weak earth point on either side of the car, the globe might not fire every time and you could be left with a single HID, which is admittedly still better than halogen, but is a pain in the butt.