cv8-r350

Name: Matt Age: 24 Occupation: Maintenance Fitter, BHP Billiton Live: Adelaide, for 4 days a month Drive: BA MKII F6, Manual, exhaust, injectors, pump, Next Drive: barely get to drive this one, so havent even thought about next one.

that's 500hp/375kw at the flywheel. Only rich Expensive Daewoo lovers will buy one coz you can buy a GTS LS3 for $75000, then spend a further 3500 on exhaust, air intake, and custom tune and get the same power. So yes it is a big waste of money. IMO yes it will handle a sh*t load better than a FG F6, but spend 15k on an F6 and apart from the sound you will enjoy an F6 more with the extra 100k in your pocket.

I find with mine it doesnt get boost unless my foot is flat on the gas pedal. I`m told this is how the factory tune works. So if I drive along holding the revs at 4000 say it doesnt get full boost unless I flatten the pedal.

As I heard in another topic, but didnt want to hijack it, if your FPV numbers has the letter P in front of it, it is a first off prototype model. What does this mean in regards to the early life of the car. I bought a BA MKII second hand a little while back and it is number P0006. It has craig lowndes and jamie whincup`s real signatures on the dash which were put there when it was on display at the Clipsal 500 according to the dealership. Does this mean that it has a hard life or has all the dodgy first off parts which had problems and if so anything that I should look out for?

What does it mean if it has a P in front of the build number

Not that far out. golden grove. what you driving?

I`m in the northern suburbs of Adelaide driving a red F6, looking for car cruises, dyno days, show and shines, drags etc. if any one could help give me a heads up by PM when they`re on would be much appreciated Matt

Is that real it looks f*cking awesome, how much would something like that cost and how would you get it complied, coz definitely would get that done to my F6

I have an F6 Ba with the standard brakes, FPV blue calipers (too small) and I wanna upgrade the rotors and calipers. I was wondering if I could go cheap and buy new front ones only and put the original FPV fronts on the rear and get rid off the rear ones cheers

My mate has that acid rush colour xr8 I think that's what its called, it is that off yellow metallic colour with the two stripes along the side. he painted his rims a really dark gun grey colour in a satin finish and it looks awesome suits the car with the stripes so well. from a distance they look almost black, dont get gloss finish it will look tacky. heres a pic Matt

oh yeah and the ford mechanic also told me to get a tough single plate clutch if I was going to do any mods as when the twin plates break they destroy everything around it bellhousing floorpan etc. why would he tell me that if my clutch was fine? as these F6 clutches can hold bucket loads of power.

warranty is for the whole car and the good thing is I can take it to any repairer I like. and about the clutch it doesn`t slip or anything like that but it is like it never fully disengages, but not everytime. like a clutch fork is bent or spring faulty in someway I`ve never had a twin plate apart so im not sure how they work. For example when slowing down and down changing, I`ll clutch in and when I shift to another gear the diff clunks (ive got hard diff bush, its that noise) before ive taken my foot of the clutch. it also does it when the car is stationery. Ford told me that the clutch in the F6 never fully disengages?

Got the car back from ford and they told me that all high performance twin plate clutches have a little bit of grip even when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way in?????? and the tail shaft will turn a little bit. Ive never heard of this before and asked a few of my mechanic mates and they hadnt either.?????? Ford ended up giving me a free extended warranty out this, so my guess is that the clutch is on the way out and they dont wanna fix it. An extended warranty at cost price (around $500) is cheaper than taking out the gearbox and checking springs and replacing etc. I`ll just see it out for a few weeks and see what happens. I`ll keep you guys updated.

do any of the BA-BF ford falcon/fairmont/fairlane range come with black interior from factory? I`m worried about painting it and having it scratch of in a month

It`s going into ford tomorrow for another warranty issue (handbrake) and I`ll let you know what happens

In my F6 manual when you`re stationary ie. trafficlights or when you first get in car etc. You put it into gear (engine running) and clutch pushed all the way the drive line clunks like an auto would. It`s like the clutch is never fully disengaged. I started to notice this after I had an neoprene bush replacement for the diff bush so it is very clunky. which I think is amplifying a sound that maybe I couldn`t hear before? But surely it is not normal for the tail shaft to move at all if the clutch pedal is fully pushed in?

cool any idea who to ask for it?

Senna T. I think that would be an awesome idea if you could twin turbo, If you set it up right and were able to increase the low down power and reduce the current turbo lag. I think two hks gtrs turbos would be a good idea, two 400hp turbos which come on full at 2500rpm. tight for for room but alot simplier than creating a sequential set up. With research and development and a high mount split manifold it would be possible, expensive, and cane most other ford T with the same peak power output. matt

cheers that is pretty much what I was told by my auto elec, cant use alarm until engine has stopped and have to lock door with a key. and they way he does this is hot wire the smartlock system to be able to lok the doors at all. just seeing if anyone out there has overcome this problem.

8. cv8-r350 - [color="#008000"]shifter and shortened stick[/color]

I know this causes issues talking about turbo timers as from what I read in other posts. But I just want to know if it is possible to put one on a BA MK11 F6 typhoon. Strictly no comments on whether I should do it or not. I just want to know if it is possible with the factory alarm and immobiliser Cheers Matt

I had a mechanic from a reputable performance shop check it out and he says its all good, my bearings are nice and tight and smooth, and its normal for them to run down after engine is turned off. According to him the oil pressure drops straight away, and since there is no oil pressure they make a small amount of noise.

my mate that works in spare parts at Jarvis ford said they only sell it as the whole thing not just the lid. but he told me I can buy a Expensive Daewoo part for about fifteen bucks that fits in perfect to replace the ford "spring clip thingy" I`ll work on getting a part number for ya josh bmx

yes that's the one the wires in my picture are actually plugs, you can change between low level input high level out put and high level input and low level output. also that is american website so that $56.95 USD is $70 AUS.

cheers fellas much appreciated