spook

The problem with factory sub amp is that there is no remote power signal (12v). As I understand it turns on once it detects an audio signal. If you keep the factory sub amp connected, you can use the method I described to get a remote signal to a 2nd amp. The ICC runs a built in high pass filter when it detects the sub amp is connected. If you are happy with the sound, you can leave your door and deck speakers running from the ICC and just use the 2nd amp to run a bigger sub and therefore have some more control over the bass. This is pretty much what I'm looking into right now as I don't want to run new speaker and power leads all over the place in order to run everything off an amp. I have already upgraded all speakers and the sound is much better anyway.

One way to trigger a 2nd amp is to leave the factory amp connected and use one of these kits - universal voltage switch There is an LED on the factory amp (have to pull the covers off to see it) that you can tap into and connect to the voltage switch input trigger. Then connect the ouput of the voltage switch to the remote line of your 2nd amp to switch it on. This will work OK if you want to run a better amp to power the sub and leave the factory amp connected to run high pass to the door and parcel shelf speakers.

BF with 304 rwkw doing around 500 per week and better fuel consumption than stock

That could work. Bit better than the $150 odd I paid many moons ago for a UAS organised day at Wakefield.

Yeh I hear ya. The price of track days puts allot of people off. Having said that, I don't think skid pan days are much cheaper either.

I'd be in on a skid pan day. Did one a long time ago and it was awesome.

Smurf6, bring it - this cruise will be a cracker.

Ratter, that's still quite impressive.

Just picked it up. It made 304 kw at the treads with exhaust as mentioned, Rapid intercooler, injectors and Walbro pump. Very happy with the outcome.

Just read the last few posts. I recently had a 4" dump and 5 " cat fitted to my BF using the stock mufflers. Nice and quiet on idle and cruise (only very slighlty louder than stock), but sounds mean when on boost. Going back to Autotech for a tune tomorrow so will let you know what sort of power this set up supports.

Noticed that one myself. Guess they try it on and see if they get a hit.

Count me in. Should have the mods and final tune complete by then aswell

I just had 4 inch dump and high flow cat installed with a 10psi tune - still running a factory airbox with a Typhoon lower half and stock cooler. The turbo whistle and induction noise is addictive.

Cheers mate. I did not realise it was that simple - feel a bit better about it now. Apreciate the info.

My car has had this problem three times where after a long drive, I'll stop at a set of lights and the engine starts to run rough and has no power when you try to take off. It will then stall. I can start it but again it's rough and when I put my foot down nothing happens and the car surges (like there's no fuel) - it also pops out the airbox if you keep the foot into it. It will stutter along with no power for a 100 meters or so and then stall On each occasion it has been a hot day. I leave the car over night and it runs fine the next day like nothing had ever happened. It did this to me 8 months ago and ran perfectly until 2 weeks ago when it did the same thing. I was 10 mins from a Ford dealer and called them up to book it in. I managed to limp the car there after stalling and stopping 8 - 10 times The customer service guy came out to check it in and the car stalled. I thought this was good as he could see I wasn't full of sh*t and was told they would look at it the next day as it was late in the afternoon. Gave him a run down on the fault as outlined above and asked that they also carry out the 60K service (quoted $412 before any time spent on fixing problem) I called AM next day to find out what the fault was and he said it was a dirty throttle body. I questioned this as the car had bee running perfectly for such a long time between each episode. He said leave it with us. I picked it up later that day and was told that there can be a fault with the VCT solenoids and that they were removed, cleaned and bench tested prior to refitting. Great I thought. Something's been done and they know of the fault. Bill came to $520 odd bucks (air filter not included due to K&N) It been 2 weeks to the day since I dropped it off and it had been running fine until today I stopped at a set of lights near home - then, well you guessed it - stalling, no power, coughing and farting again!!!! I stopped at my local mechanic who I know quite well and asked in his professional opinion, had the cam cover been removed?? I had had my suspicions and he was able to confirm them. Looks as though it has not been touched. See attached pics and let me know if you think I'm barking mad. The original pics are much larger and show more clearly the oil and grit around the bolts and gasket. So back to the same Ford dealer for another crack at it. I'll put it too them that they have charged me for work not carried out as it mentions on the invoice "remove and refit the VCT and cleaned" (word for word)

Just goes to show who the "real" PM is. Bob Brown has too much control of the agenda and it won't get any better once the Greens have the balance of power in the Senate. You can give a big thanks to Oakshot and Windsor for this situation.

I'll be at Mount Annan - shaping up to be a good one!

Looks good - I'm in

Same here guys - good to meet you We really need another Macquarie Pass run Need to get that turbo glowing red hot again!

Yeh, could be in on that

Iv'e been in my mates Disco 3 with the 2.7 on a trip to the snow. It hauls arse up the hills so I can only imagine what it will be like in a lighter territory

I stayed up till 1:3o this morning reading the whole thing - fark I was in tears. Some of the funniest stuff ever

It's the factory tip. A good polish with Autosol does the trick.

Good to hear it made a difference for you also. Glad I'm not imagining things.

Rear springs are SSL's. Wouldn't mind it lower but with the driving I do didn't want it dragging it's arse all over the place. Dropping the rear spoiler could work, just couldn't be stuffed messing with boot lids etc.