Alion

Hey Guys, I know this question would of been asked here and I have spent time going through it, but it can be hard to find the best answer. Have an 09 G6ET and would like to go with 19's just for there grip over 20's (I know there wont be much extra). I still wont rule out 20's if it gets me 20mm extra in the rear So the wants. I don't need the deep dish from small offsets but rather the tires fit perfect no rub. 19' or 20' Fronts 245/255 Largest rears possible I have seen 305 but I was thinking for good fitment 275 or a size larger? (car is getting high end diff bushes and looking into a locker) I just need the offsets and the tire sizes that they are able to run please! (sorry to ask a question I know there is an answer somewhere on here)

Thanks guys have made an inquiry to fare trading. Have also been able to get 'ZF Australia' to email me saying that a flush will generally never work so it seems like its time to play hard ball.

Hey guys, Well its being fixed ATM but there telling me that after a good flush. and once the milkiness is out the gear box will be fine I want to know if this is right or do I get fair trading involved and talk to ZF to get there expert option? Any useful input is greatly appreciated Cheers Allan

Thanks for the help. Might send the guy and email and see what happens if I don't get the right noises might get work to follow it up. Again thanks for the help

Milkshake :( A bad looking chunky milkshake

Hey Lady's and Gents, Well I am having a few issues with the G6ET It has a bad diff bush, it makes a knocking noise somewhere at the front of the car when the road is a little bumpy. Does any one know what causes this. HOWEVER the big problem is the ZF I think. After short drives now the thermo fans are staying on after the car is turned off? The temp on the dash is normal but we all know that is not the most important temperatures. The box feels like it is slipping and every time is does I think the car is pulling back on the acceleration. Is this normal? It is happening badly in 3rd and 4th up hills when in tip-tronic mode. When in lower gears this doesn't happen at the higher revs all seems fine. Also the shifts is really hard and delayed. Do my assumptions seem correct? This is my first auto and really know nothing about them other then the ZF is different to most of them. If you could help with this it would be great. The car was bought from a dealer with the 3mth warranty so it should be covered right? All help is much appreciated guys. Regards, Allan

Hey Guys, Got a the G6ET just over 2 mths ago and with the 3 mth warranty from used car dealers I have found that the diff bush needs replacing and something else under the car is knocking over uneven bumps in the road (sounds like it is coming from the front). Does anyone know what this could be? The other more concerning is in low rpm (1400-2000) in 3rd or 4th in tip-tronic mode with the acceleration over 50%. The car starts to splutter and go all over the place it builds a bit of boost then dumps then comes back on. It almost sounds like the car is miss firing. Is there anyone around the Wollongong area I can send the car to? Should this be covered by the 3 mth warranty it comes with? If anyone know alot about the common problems or can help please pm me and ill try to call you? Its all a big help thanks guys Regards, Allan

Has anyone heard about updating the firmware for these cars apparently it can be done and it makes the car a bit more compatible with phones and the interface? But does it offer anything tuning or traction control benefits. Also any takes on the Astra

Cheers, This is not all going to happen at once and I really think I wont be running those number everyday There is no need for the wear and tare on the car and tyres I dont need the ongoing cost of things breaking (I use to have a BA MkI ewwww). I am hoping to run only 8 psi or similar daily and hopefully will be in the low 300's or high 200's. I didn't know about the back end of these cars and will defiantly be looking at that when I go for the higher numbers. As for my aspirations and budget. The budget will always have to come first as saving for a house at the same time (and also have a wife to convince haha). By the looks for 350 ish with the room to go higher I will be in about 8-9k (I know I have other expenses for a true track and zf dyno tune and maybe looking at a brembo brake pack might check if any of my other contacts have some parts they want to get rid off) along with the cost of services. However the point of this was to find what bits I need to make this power. But its great to know what else is needed down the road! I have a Expensive Daewoo Astra City TS I think it is maybe a swap for a GTX3582R (minus housing) and a process west surge tank with the 044. How I hate that car!!! Again all thanks for informing me on what I will need to be looking for.

Thanks for your feed back guys piping kit came form with the cooler its a Rapid v1.0 But thinkiing I will get the extra parts to take it to 2.0 or spend a little bit more and go Process west with the 6" trumpet to 4 inch.

Very helpful thankyou. Well I am starting to think I will do this is two stages get parts I listed above. Keep stock turbo and run what it can handle? Save for the turbo, surge tank and LSD/tail-shaft setup. Get the numbers to my goal. Keen the car on low boost as it will not be a daily driver anyway and save for the ZF build.

Yeh I have heard the gear box and the LSD start having problems at this power level as a subcontractor of mine has filled me in on what to expect. I think I might look into the LSD and hope I have a good box for now. Are the parts listed above fine for this power level biggest problem at the moment is the fuel pump and if the rapid v2.0 intake can handle that power level as I know nothing about the rapid systems sorry.

Hey Gents/Ladys, Well I have just put a deposit on my 2nd hand G6E Turbo and now time to start the parts list/ receive your thoughts on what I should be looking for. I am wanting to make just over the 400 RWKW becasue lets face it, it is just too easy to be in the 300 club Well so far its a Rapid stage V 1.0 (from a mate) looking to upgrade to V2.0 (what sort of rwKw's does the rapid system allow for?) or go with the race style Process West intake and battery relocation kit. x-force 3.5 inch cat back with 4 inch dump and 4 inch hiflow cat. Seimens Deka 80lb injectors (are these a good size or do I need bigger? I calculated about 74lb for 410rwkws at a .9 duity cycle so this seems right). Rapid Valve Springs. Boost controller (for the wife, so I don't have to spend 10 mins flash tuning it, I am thinking about an eBoost 2 that I can hide away in the glove box or similar). Ported rear turbo housing (again from friend). Walbro pump 340 (again from friend I don't know if this will be large enough though (see below about surge tank)). Don't worry I do have to pay for the parts from my mate there just heavily discounted. I am also thinking about a surge tank for insurance, best performance for price? I would love to use all Process West gear as I am a Wollongong local now (moved down from Cairns) and would love to support him? or if there are any others at the right price I would love to know! I think I will be in the hole a bit over $5,000 without the surge tank just for parts. As I am new down here I also don't know to many people and don't really have anywhere to do the bolt ons and would love to save on a bit of labour costs and know your thoughts on tuners local, Sydney or south coast. We all know that tuners that do the right thing by us get there name spread so I would like to hear a few. Most of this wont happen for a few months while I am hunting parts at the right price and working over 60+ hours a week and part time Uni coming up soon. When I get the car and give it a good wash and wax I will put up a few photos a "Granddad" Cheers, Allan

As said above it wont do much good you can actually get a coil tester (the diesel fitters at my work use them, I am a sparkie) it can tell you if your coil is actually working (should gap about 12 mm). I guess if you wanted to test if the insulation is breaking down you will have to grab the coil pack with one hand and test the earth with the other, you will feel if it has got insulation break down (not recommended if you don’t like pain or have a sh*tty heart). Not even a normal insulation testing tool (MEGA) will be able to test if there is break down because they only go up to 1000V not the 48,000V that coils use. Just change them all if you don’t want to waist to much time. Electrical tape won't do much either its not designed to take these sorts of voltages if you want to do it on the cheap see if you can find some resin filled heat shrink to heat onto it. I don’t know how much space you have down there in-between the cams. If the car is doing while it is stationary (just being revved), Get someone to see if they can see any gapping while the cover is off (little thin blue spark), or again stick your hand down the side to feel it (again don’t jump up and smack your head on the bonnet or something like that hehe). When I first got tuned and had a new cat it made lovely *BANG* noises on over run (doesn’t do it anymore ) So anyway Easy Fix: Replace them all Hard Fix: Heat srink Replace 1 at a time

Put some black felt on it. They do that with rally cars so they dont get the reflection of the dash on the windscreen. Might get a little hot though. To be honest I dont think there is much you could do. Have a really clean windscreen to the reflection is not quite as bad?

Sorry if its not clear. Just asking if you guys think that a 3 way joiner would be good rather then a sandwich plate or 2 T fittings

Hey guys have been looking around a little bit to find the best way to get the sensors installed on the BA and seemed to se that some people where finding it a little less then satisfactory with the leaking sandwich plates. I saw and idea that I would mind following where they added a T piece onto the oil screen for the turbo to allow another sensor to being added. The problem is that I am looking to get oil temp, oil pressure and air fuel (boost is already mounted on the A pillar when the car was brought). This would mean I would need to get 2 of these for the extra 2 spots. Was wondering if there was one fitting that would do this and not make it stupidly long and possibly damaging. I will be going to a few hydraulic places on the weekend to ask them and see what fittings could be utilized. But you guys have done this before and know how to do it so advice is appreciated. BTW the fitting with sparked this all up is HERE

Are these for the V8 only or does the 6 have something different. I am chassing one for xr6turbo BA Mk1 to have both oil and pressure gauges fitted. Cheers

Well doesnt look like I can edit the first post so here it is all again! Well where to start, I guess on Tuesday the 8/7/08, the car was taken in to be tuned up gain as it seemed to have lost all of it power. As a dyno run showed at a car show a month before, only making 287HP at the wheels (yes horse power). When the car was brought it was suppose to be making about 340KW at the fly. So what went wrong? Well thax to a good mate (the guy who is tuning the car) and a fellow XR6T owner he can be trusted. So back to Tuesday 8/7/08, car was on the dyno for a full day of tuning but strangely enough only making 8psi of boost, when they where tuning it for 15 after much pondering on what the problem was they found a something a little suspicious. A bolt off the manifold to the turbo was gone and the rest was loose! So they pulled it all off looked at it all and found that the manifold was now bent. Well that to be machined as it was the end of the day so car was laid to rest to tomorrow. Wednesday 9/7/08, car was to go back on the dyno later that day after the car was put back together and everything checked they found the bolts holding the turbine housings together where loose! So apart came the turbo. Was inspected and checked with no damage was put back together and it was the end of the day. Thursday 10/7/08 the baby was put back together again and went on the dyno later that day with it still only making 8psi they decided to change the actuator. They had already tested it to make sure it wasn’t the problem but better to be safe then sorry they thought. But still no luck 8psi max boost. Then again what do you know it was the end of the day. Friday 11/7/08 (today) they found the problem!!!!!!! They decided to check the intake and exhaust system (as the compression had been tested about 1 month ago and came up fine). Well the intake was good but the Cat had been blown out into the exhaust system and was doing a great job at blocking everything up. So there was so much back pressure the max boost was 8psi. So now that I have a cat case with no cat it will be staying that way till I have the money to get a decent one. Just thought I would share my problem with the world and at least the problem is fixed now. I don’t think I am going to get slogged for all the time that has gone into this. But I am still going to have to pay for the machining a few other things. In total I think I came away with a barge and the service is fantastic but these guys are known for it. They are Nispro accreted and they will be getting a letter of thanks. Sorry if it was hard to read before I am a terrible speller and I got a lovely case of the flu.

Yes sorry it is Cape York Automotive in Federation Street. I am just lazy at the moment due to the flu. ill fix it now

Yeh I would if I could remember there name. There in Cairns on Muir St down the end doesnt look like much from the outside. I will repost when I remember there name sorry for that guys

Well where to start, I guess on tuesday the 8/7/08, the car was taken in to be tuned up gain as it seemed to have lost all of it power. As a dinorun showed at a car show a month before, only making 287HP at the wheels (yes horse power). When the car was brought it was ment to be making about 340KW at the fly. So what went wrong? Well thax to a good mate (the guy who is tuning the car) and a fellow XR6T owner he can be trusted. So back to tuesday 8/7/08, car was on the dino for a full day of tuning but strangely enough only making 8psi of boost, when they where tuning it for 15 after much pondering on what the problem was they found a somthing a little sus. a bolt off the manifold to the turbo was gone and the rest was lose! so they pulled it all off looked at it all and found that the manifold was now bent. Was then michained and the such like. was the end of the day so car was layed to rest to tomorrow. Wednesday 9/7/08, car was to go back on the dino later that day after the car was put back together and everything checked they found the bolts holding the turbine housings together where losse! So apart came the turbo. Was inspected and checked with no damage was put back together and it was the end of the day. Thursday 10/7/08 the baby was put back to 1 again and went on the dino later that day with it still only making 8psi they decided to change the actuater. They had already tested it to make sure it wasnt the problem but better to be safe then sorry they thought. But still no luck 8 psi max boost. Then again what do you know it was the end of the day. Friday 11/7/08 (today) they found the problem!!!!!!! they decided to check the intake and exhaust system (as the compression had been tested about 1 month ago and came up fine). Well the intake was good but the Cat had been blowen out into the system and was doing a great job at chokeing everything up. So there was so much back presure the max boost was 8psi. So now that I have a cat case with no cat it will be staying that way till I have the money to get a deicent one. Just thought I would share my problem with the world and at least the problem is fixed now. I dont think I am going to get sloged for all the time that has gone into this. But I am still going to have to pay for the machineing a few other things. In total I think I came away with a bargen and the service is fantastice but these guys are know for it. They are nispro accreated and they will be getting a letter of apreaction. (but I think I might use spell checked for that)

I am led to beleave that you do need 18" wheels to fit the 330 in, I am actually the highest current bidder atm on this item, main reason why I went for this is becasue I just took the car in for a fairly big service with all fluid (brake, engine, gearbox, diff and such like) changed. I was informed that I have servear stress fractures (was a good friend who serviced the car so I do trust what he tells me). So still with lots of bill and such like in this day and age and only being an apprentice (2nd year at that) There is not to much money in the bank to change over the disks, I could have used standard from ford I know but seeing there has already been stress on the old brakes an upgrade would be smart. If I do go through with this item I will wright back on this item, hopeing that all the attention drawen to it doesnt make it cost anymore. haha The only thing I dont know about it yet is if I will need spacers because I dont have factory rims Cheers Allan

Thax that's what I wanted to hear btw nice carputer!

I dont think you would be able too but I am guessing from previous expirence with sterio systems with computer (higher-quality hifi) there is big difference in quality not spl. If you pluged a computer into an onkyo and then into a Lynn system no real difference but plug a decent dvd player into onkyo sounds the same as computer plug it into lynn sounds fantastic. Ofcasue I am not going for lynn (like aston martin's do) but something better then what the factory head unit puts out. Its alot of work but I like that kind of thing and I personaly rate soundquality over a carputer not as cool but I love my CD's. I know I sound picky and stuck in my ways, and I sort of am but its quality I am chassing