ravenhard

how much do you wanna spend? what are you going to use it for? what other mods do you plan on in the future? What rwkw figure are you hoping for?

getting a tune done in another state when you have the option of getting a tune done in your own is absolutely ridiculous. I had the choice of 2 sydney tuners, one 20mins drive and the other 1 hour drive, with very little in price difference. I chose the cheaper one but cost me more in time due to having to go back to the tuner 4 times after that to fix up little issues with the tune. Each 1 hour drive I was cursing the tuner for being that much further away. I couldnt imagine if he lived 1000ks away and had to fix and diagnose problems that far away

I installed my rapid kits yonks ago, but from memory that metal pipe you are talking about is the under battery pipe (UBP) which has a boost sensor attached to it. boost sensor goes into the pipe and wires comes out of it. You probably connected the boost sensor into the cold side piping but havent attached the wiring connecting it. I have a slight memory of needing to use a long thin extension hose to relocate this sensor. Ofcourse I could be talking sh*t and not remembering. The reason I bought my gear of Rapid is his willingness to help out when he can and answer any and all stupid install questions I had. I would give him a call if your stuck.

so it was just another gee up. I bet he really just had the camry as a hire car

thanks for your input south, but to be honest, those mods are mild compared to getting an upgraded actuator and ported wastegate done which affects alot more than those mods would in tuning. Ive read on here that you cant run boost lower than what the actuator is rated for. Is that true?

its not often I stick up for Ford, but its actually a silly Bosch design. Not ford. They have been using this BOV for years and use it on other cars such as VW's and Audi's

Ok, I might give it a go. If not will have to find a stock actuator and throw it on. How will that affect using a stock actuator with larger port? Alternatively I wonder if I should do a trade with someone for their stock setup with cash my way...sounds like a plan...only thing would be actually doing the changeover

have you seen this ratter?

So Im gonna return my car back to stock to be traded in/sold. Gonna strip it of all parts except for the turbo mods. IE 12psi actuator with bigger wastegate/flapper mod. What will happen? Will it overboost/lean out? blow up the engine? Go better?

wow there is a big misconception that the BF's had the BA premium brakes. That is NOT the case. Ive had both on my car and can tell you there is a big difference between them in how they perform. Infact a member on here upgraded his BF fronts from the standard to BA premiums and he can also tell the big difference The statistics. BA - Fronts - 2 piston caliper w/ 298mm vented rotor. Rears 1 piston w/303 solid rotor. BA premiums/FPV - Fronts - 2 piston C6 caliper(much stronger and thicker) w/ 325mm vented rotor. Rears 1 piston w/303 solid BF - Fronts - 2 piston caliper(same as BA caliper just different mounting) w/ 322mm vented rotor. Rears 1 piston w/328 vented rotor. BFII(some)- Fronts - 2 piston caliper w/ 322mm vented rotor. Rears 1 piston w/303 solid rotor. FG - Fronts - 2 piston caliper w/ 322mm vented rotor. Rears 1 piston w/303 solid rotor.

its an interesting way to do the hot side piping. Taking it from one side of the engine bay to the other. Also interesting that they do it as alot of people dont even bother to do the hotside as it isnt a major restriction but then they retain the factory under battery pipe, which is usually the first thing people do as a simple mod as it is a big restriction in the factory system along with the equally restricive crossover

so whats the plan for this cruise? where are you headed, what roads are you taking? how may stops and so forth... thinking about heading down for a cruise with you guys

I hope so too, although I did get sent one of those emails talking about the ned safety cameras and there locations and that wasnt on there. But then again its just a stupid chain email. I guess it usually takes them 3-4weeks to send you out a fine. So another week or so without one and I reckon Im clear.

the reason I got an adjustable BOV was that I wanted to try out the venting to atmosphere and the associated noise it came with but I knew I didnt want to live with that noise all the time. So most of the time its fully plumb back I have also saw a video on youtube that shows the stock bosch unit failing when reaching 15psi at the top end and loosing a few psi on a dyno. Simply replacing to an aftermarket unit solved this issue. But the internet being the internet and youtube its not the best source of factual information so take it with a grain of salt

So you are using the stock BOV? I have an adjustable BOV, depending if I want more "phisht" or flutter. Either way there is a bit of noise

Hiro performanc(site sponsor) are selling some rotors at a very good price. Dba Rotors - Ford XR6 Turbo.com Get the DBA4000 slotted. Is $239 per rotor. As for pads, depends on what type of driving you do. Search the forums and you'll get a million suggestions. As for the workshop manual, its 151mb file. Havent seen it on the web anywhere. Could be wrong.

if they were standard XR6turbo they would be raw alloy finish. If they were the upgrade premo brakes they would be black with "Ford" painted on them

the nsw rego papers have a "Notice of disposal/Registration transfer details" on the back of them to change ownership. Also has a bit for sale price so I reckon that is usually good enough for proof of purchase

Yep planning on using the t-bolt. I only used 2 normal hose clamps on the entire IC piping and they just so happen to be under the turbo on the hotside piping that is getting blownn off.

The BA premo/FPV calipers dont have a seperate bracket for the caliper to be mounted to use the 325mm rotors. Also the brake lines are different between the standard caliper and premo. So would need new lines. I got braided PBR lines from racebrakes for a very good price.

buy the thing and get proof of purchase. Drive it home and then cash in the rego. Here is the RTA info on it Cancel your rego

thanks for all the tips guys. Managed to get home from Gold Coast without anymore dramas. Im planning on redoing the whole hotside next weekend. Totally removing it and then refitting and tightening it all. When I installed it I did use some WD40 to get the pipes on the silicon joiners easier, but this maybe the issue so will degrease it all. Also planning on removing the underbattery CAI which is what is mainly blocking access to the bottom of the turbo. There is no clamp to hold the piping to the chassis BTW. Its floating with the only thing holding it is the bottom of the turbo and the end tank of the IC. As for the idea of innertube glue and hairspray I dont reckon will work. Ive had the turbo glowing bright red after spirited mountain runs and I dont reckon either of those things would survive at a guess 700degree temps

So I have an aftermarket hotside piping. Blue silicon joiner coming from the bottom of the turbo to the actual piping. Since I have had it, I have probably blown it 8-9 times. I've heard it totally disintergate with a very loud "twang" to simple "phisht" loss to boost sound and clamps still sitting there on top of piping. Usually when I give it a boot. I keep a few spare clamps on hand now buts its getting annoying. It started off with a few cheapo titon clamps from supercheap, then I tried on 2 occasions using the T-bolt clamps that is on the rest of I/C piping but due to size and location, I dont think Im getting enough pressure on it to tighten it. Currently using JBS clamps and they give me a longer interval between breaks... but seriously it just happened tonight and am pissed off. Just getting ready to drive back to Sydney from Gold Coast tomorow morning and now have to get in and fix this out the front of the inlaws place in the dark.... Does anybody else get this issue, whats clamps would give me the best performance, what is best technique to get it tight? Basically any help I can get would be good....

thnaks for the info guys. Yeah definitely no coolant smell when the steam/mist was coming thru the vents. must of been all the humidity and moiture in the air

sorry to hi jack your thread, but I too am getting steam coming in from the vents when the AC is on. I thought that was normal, but do think that is a sign the heater core is on its way out? I am not loosing any coolant but I do get a funny smell coming in every now and then.