ravenhard

as others have said, get a serive maybe to ford to check any fault codes. Then do fuel filter, plugs, coils and most important sheck for boost leaks on any and all hoses connecting the crossover, intake and throttlebody

oh when I read the original post I read it that you had vibrations while braking and also just cruising at 60, 70 and 90k's. I only had vibration over 60-70 either under braking or not, it was always there. Do you have a BA or BF?

I would love to set this up but I know Southern Sydney down to the gong like I know Jennifer Hawkins bare naked arse, not very well but I have seen it. Seriously I have got no idea driving down that way and it gets even worst driving at night in the dark so I have to wait for your good graces....

so come on angel, dont leave us hanging, you've had 5 days now. Whats happening with the cruise and Mr BionicXR6T, I really appreciate your efforts in organising the cruises :angel: but I think you need a good to get your butt in gear for another night cruise....

its a common used trick amongst pro detailers and often said on detailing forums oh and smooth works best

oh is THIS them? Still a pretty good price as they include pads also

gained alot, do it if you can!

so wait you got THIS from him? They arent DBA4000 they are the street series

does it come with a sender and complete kit? Ive got a AFR gauge 6175 to swap

Sorry to disappoint you dude but I've got bendix ulitmates on RDA slotted disc and they squel like a bitch on heat! Plus they are dusty which I can live with due to having time to clean them every few days

your car looks great, definitely a colour you dont see very often? BTW whats that gauge looks like it would be a AFR but I guess its a digital boost gauge?

how does it go going over speed humps and raised pedestrian crossing? Ie do you scrape the front bar?

So on a whim I bought some KING SPRINGS KFFL-57SL front KFRL-68SSL rear. Now my question is what will be the ride comfort be like. My car is a daily driver and I have to drive on Parramatta rd which is basically a paved goat track(got to be the worst major road in all of Aust.). I take trips to Canberra, Gold coast every year and do so with the car fully loaded with 2 little kids in the back and a full boot. Will this combo shake and rattle the kids to the point they wont get to sleep during these trips? Also I have a slight incline in my drive way and on stock ride height I have scraped my cat which sits a bit low. I installed some whiteline sway bars 27mm fronts and 22mm rears and thought they made my ride bumpier so not sure how these lowered springs will go. What do you think, get them installed or piss them off?

Stock BA disc are 298mm in size and stock BF are 322mm. You cant run BF disc with a BA caliper unless you do some mods

Do you have a BA or BF? $130 a corner sounds very cheap and if they are DBA4000 and not streets for that price get it straight away.

Ive just changed over from the standard setup with KN panel and F6 secondary intake to a setup with the under battery CAI but I also got rid of the crossover all together for my cold side IC piping. Induction noise is quite a bit louder and definitely gives me more power but as I discovered my car is actually over boosting a little bit, which means I it time for a retune

Im no expert on V8's but arent they the 5.0L? as are the holdens for parity

wow nice looking workshop, so whens the XR6turbo dyno day

ive seen a few different runs and it always looke like one of them stuffs up the start yet the timeslip shows them to be within 0.05sec of each other. Does anyone know how many runs they did?

search button is your friend http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;hl=aux+input basically you can do what is said in that link or you can buy and cable off ebay for ~$30 connect to the same spot and it should be long enough to go to under the ICC. Not the best option as it can have whine, you can buy the whole hog setup from fraud that has a boost/amp with it but alot more $$$

have you had the centre diff bush replaced. When I did, the workshop who replaced it had my whole diff out and when putting eveything back together again farked up the weight on the tailshaft. So after countless wheels balances and alignments, I took it back to the workshop who did the diff bush, took them 10mins to fix and solved my constant vibration at higher speeds

its been a while since I was into car audio but last time I did the dyno mat thing I also put it on the back on the actual door skin aswell as over all the hole like you have done. Did it also on the hatch of the pulsar to stop it rattling. Heres a little tip also on the back of the number plate as I hate hearing cars drive past with a vibrating number plate due to alot of bass If you cant afford more dynomat I just used body deadener from supercheap, looks like black tar crap but does the job in consealed places to add weight to body panels

Well since Ive had my custom tune done with the bulk of the mods done at he same time my car would surge. What I mean by surging is while cruising at 60-80 and I give it some WOT the car would jerk back and forwards and not be smooth at all. Happened the first drive home from the tuners, went back to same tuner 3 more times to try and solve the issue. It didnt help he was 1 hr drive away. Each time he said it was fixed but the drive home said different. He did manage to increase power and give what looked like a smooth power curve on the dyno printout but never with AFR's or boost even though I asked Next plan of action as suggested here was to replace: -fuel filter -tight all silicon hoses -fuel pump -valve springs -spark plugs -coils (all 6) Took it to another tuner and got another dyno and finally got a dyno print out with boost showing its going up and down from 13-14-13psi continually. That tuner wanted me to get a custom tune with hom but I resisted. I decided to take of the boost solenoid and just run spring pressure for a while. Actuator is a 12lb but still got the surging ARRGHHH at this stage I want to roll the damn car into the river and claim insurance its that fustrating and time consuming. that's the background and I'll try and keep it short as people have short attention spans and I congradulate anyone that has read it this far. Anyways the fix for me was basically from what I can tell boost leak and it didnt come from any of the main silicon hoses that join the intercooler piping or intake from as far as I can tell. What I did was I scored a set of hi-flow series cold side piping(that gets rid of the X-Over) and the underbattery CAI from RAP1D last week and installed them myself. I took off my old performer series pipes and checked all the joiner and all seemed OK, but while I had complete access to my engine bay I redid all the other vacum hoses that attach things like the actuator to the boost solenoid and back and also all of the BOV hoses. I either got new hoses clamps or got new/bigger cable ties. There was actually 2 or 3 hoses that didnt even have clamps or ties on them. I suspect from when the actuator was change and also when someone previously had installed a boost activated intercoole spray. I suspect it was boost leak as it wasnt able to hold the higher boost on WOT but correct me if Im worng as it defintely wasnt the tune. SO next time some says their car is surging suggest boost leak and make sure ALL hoses are redone not just the big intercooler joiners! I got it on the dyno the other night and the power curve and the AFR's look horrible. You would have thought getting rid of the cross-over you would lean out a bit not get overfuel on the top end. No increase in power according to the run from the other night but I can tell you there is a huge difference in seat of my pants feel. Going by other cars that have been on this dyno and other T's I have been in my car would definitely be over 300 if I went back to original dyno and if I really cared about numbers. I suspect the first dyno was reading a touch high plus it wasnt done in shootf6 more which would have made a difference. I wont go back to the first tuner to do a comparison as I wasnt happy with his original efforts Original dyno run from months back New dyno run...looks shocking hey? Not smooth power and AFR's that are crap top end.

what mods do you have? I can hear my walbro fuel pump sometimes humming away. Can definitely hear it on startup when I turn the key to acc.

wow blueprint actually looks like velocity in that photo...I always wondered what my car would look like with dark agents