jimmy921984

Hi Shar you will need a good quality relay, 4mm twin wire some split convolute tubing, fuse holder and I used a 30amp fuse, crimp terminals to suit the fuel pump relay a earth point near the fuse box and the main power studs in the fuse box and various tools crimp pliers and soldering iron plan were you are going to mount the relay and fuse I made mine fit inside the fuse box to hide it bit of stuffing around but doable mines a b series locate the original fuel pump relay and use the two trigger wires of the coil terminals 8586 soldiers some twin on them and run them to the 8586 terminals of your new relay pretty sure the 86 terminal is positive double check it and use the red wire on it. Connect your fuse holder to one of the main studs in the fuse box (leave the fuse out till your ready to test) and connect it to the 30 terminal of your new relay extend the fuse holder wire if need be. Crimp the eyelets on the twin, tube enough length from your pump to your relay don't cut it to length yet. Connect the wiring to your pump and cable tie it to your starter motor cable it runs under the engine up to the fuse box. Cut the twin at your longest point of termination either your relay or your earth point and split the twin back far enough to make a junction point between your relay and your earth point try and follow other wires were possible finish tubing one wire and I like to put tubing on the other and tape it up make a nice y junction terminate your black wire to your earth point and connect your read wire to the 87 terminal of your new relay. Turn the ignition on you should feel the relay click if so turn the ignition off fit the fuse and repeat your surge tank pump should be working. Remember to tape up your solder joins reds positive blacks negative and by using the original trigger wires your surge take will turn off and on with the ecu and with the safety cut out switch in the event of a bad accident. Sorry for the long post Sent from my Nokia 920 using Tapatalk

SteveR, fpv09 is a mate of mine all he's done so far is put the exhaust on without a tune and run it up on his dyno to check where its at esp afr's more than likely we will put the the intercooler kit on with stock injectors and re roll it for sh*ts and giggles to see were its at then through the id's in and then tune it of course Sent from my RM-821_apac_australia_new_zealand_218 using Tapatalk

I might be there it will be my first cruise so looking forward to it just got to organise someone to look after the kids for the night

that's what I was aiming for and why I bought all the good bolt on bits plus if I build a motor ive got all hardware to handle it aswell

yeah I know if you look on the dyno sheet there is a bit of a dip Spiro said it jumped up on the rollers and he had to back off and give it to it again maybe if he didnt have to maybe it might have made the 350

Its still well manned up till about 3-4000 rpm but hold it it full throttle and its still spinning tyres in 3rd. havent had a chance to launch it yet not properly anyways I want to take it down the ?4 and see what it will do and then ill give the keys to the missus for a go and upset the fellas Its still a sleeper family car btw she drives it more than me

yeah its great to drive still very streetable but enough there to wipe the smile off the faces off the annoying motorist out there

H everyone I finally put all my gear on my car and had it tuned its 05 MKII 6 speed manual. Upgrades are valve springs,60's dekas,surge tank with 044,plazmaman cooler,plenum,hot and cold side piping and cold air intake, waste gate upgrade and 12 psi actuator,xforce 4"dump to 3.5" cat to twin 2 1/2,mal woods opt 3+ clutch. 349.8 on 14psi I'm really happy with it thanks to my mate gav and to spiro for the tune.

Seen WIPLSH yesterday arvo on Elizabeth drive

Here are some pics from outside the car in

Yeah no worries if I get home in time tomorrow before it gets dark. These were taken inside the car but it was a little dark when I took them