ltd351t

yeah it should turn out ok.

Yeah the 3.0 to 1 in it now should be ok to start with, I have a 3.5 full spool centre and some 31 spline axles so if I was ever going to drag the car it wouldn't be a problem. These cars are much lighter than the BA/F so even 3.25 would be very fast, 3.0 is just a bit harder on the box.

I'm an engineering student, with no job, time is on my side, think of the song, lol. Previous setup now sold, engine and intake stuff also for sale. Car as it sits now, awaiting new brackets to be drawn/cut for the control arms, and finish the rear notch, etc, then start on the front which will be cleaner and easier work, looking forward to that. She will lay rail after that, at least at the rear, front not too sure of just yet, 4" more drop from where the upper ball joint binds is a big ask without drop spindles, but its possible, will probably have a better camber curve afterwards anyway. Not a mechanic nor a fabricator, just build stuff.

the factory units are water cooled yeah? if so your already way ahead of the oil only units that many people still use, so you've nothing at all to worry about.

not practical to do.

original Q was more like when will it respond, the rest I can work out as I go, but what you have said sounds good, that will do me. You sound like you know what your on about, I've pm'd you. The car will have manualised C4, trans cooling is sorted. Currently running 3.0 rear but will go 3.25 if I ever race the thing, although I don't see ACT ever building drag strip. Cheers.

Damn, I figured as much, any idea about the piston being the same casting? do they use the same size rings and ring pack layout? Yeah I know many people never actually build anything themselves, plenty of checkbook racers. Without the VCT system hooked up do they just run at zero? or go nuts? Cheers

yeah I've read his stuff, it anyone wants to answer these q's feel free. Do the BA 182 n/a engines use the same piston casting as the turbo engines? I can mill the tops down easily, but just not sure, my thoughts are that the turbo piston would be a different casting. Do the BA 182's use floating pins?

I'm using the BA 182 n/a engine, not the turbo engine. If you are thinking that the stock turbo engine is weak, then the n/a one must be even worse, which means I'm in for trouble, lol. What fails in them? Do the n/a engines have floating pins?

I totally think your right, their is every chance that will happen, the cylinder press even when properly tuned might just mash the pistons to peices, they are 9.5 or something to 1 comp after all, I can reduce comp properly for cost of headgasket, providing crown has some meat, if not head will. This stuff is interesting to me, blowing up a few engines along the way is no big deal they are very very very cheap. I can buy new engine bare and make some money back on selling head and any leftovers. I'm not familiar with the strengths and weaknesses inside these engines, apart from what has already been mentioned, rod strength who knows turbo is softer on rods and they generally fail in tension not compression, ie prepped crossy rods have taken over 400rwkw, rpm kills them. Some have killed stock engines at 300rwkw, but did they do that running pump fuel and standard comp ratio? Without knowing anything about these rods I cant say, but with the cost of basic aftermarket stuff I wouldn't even bother touching them. Do the stock rods/pistons have floating pins or press fit? The simple things are not a worry for me, the harmonics issue is, as obviously it requires more in depth work, and cranks for this I assume are not cheap.

I'm after peoples opinions regarding a new converter. Any opinions welcome, or if you have any other reccomendations or who to talk to. TCE- Pro converters- The converter shop- Dominator- Kewish- Dominello-

50$ 185rwkw so tailpipe first hey lol just kidding mate, I'm not stupid so no need for basics. thankyou very very much. Speaking with someone from nizpro they have said that without the VCT active the spool will be much slower, and that the only real way of running the system properly is with factory ecu, and a few other expensive goodies, which may put the whole deal off. Would you say the harmonics are any worse than the Au engines? I know the turbo is mismatched when used on a stock engine. I mean no offence but spare the basics please, I might have low post count but that doesn't make me ignorant. diesels actually but yeah I understand. So far we have a general consenusus of 3000-3500rpm brake stall speed required, assuming VCT is working. that's what I needed to know, thanks. With no VCT I have been told this could raise to as high as 4500rpm, this came from people that know, so I'm going to take this as fact. As has been stated these engines don't like to rev, if they are worse than the crossflow or similar engines then that sucks, but if they are the same as crossflow 6500rpm shouldn't be that hard, some degree of safety margin would be employed with the factory rev limit one would assume. It costs me nothing to make this turbo work, so I will try it, it might suck but I won't have lost anything but my time, if it works ok then the system is just a built engine away from being a useable package. If its too laggy I can easily swap out for a smaller turbo. Not to mention making the manifold and then selling it along with turbo I will make money, so its no biggie. Appreciate the constructive input, thanks.

what kind of person makes judgements about other people who they know nothing about? you have absolutely no idea how this turbo came into my possesion or why.

speaking with a few people now, given a flash speed of 3500 and lock up speed of 5000rpm, and allowing 1200rpm of lockup range, that puts me only 400rpm above factory rev limit.

What stops the rpms that early? Is it just valvesprings/cams?

the car its going into is lighter than a BA but not a whole lot. What RPM do these engines like to rev to? I guess that depends on how much boost its running, stock valvesprings no doubt don't take that much.

Money isn't everything, and spending money on a smaller rear housing isn't something I'm keen on, I'd rather keep the backpressure lower and run a higher stall. That 600$ is better spent on rods or pistons. meh, either way its getting this turbo, its a street car, but making boost on the street is something I don't need, if I can drive it normally and make no boost it doesn't bother me. yeah the Gt4202r, that's the one.

hang on a sec I think you have some facts mixed up here, sounds like you know whats what but its mixed up. Just to make it clear incase you get angry(me being new and all), the jump in area from a 74.5mm inducer, up to a 94mm inducer that only yields a 200hp gain is wrong, its out of proportion. In the GT42 family; 68mm inducer 94 mm exducer, that's the 800hp version(garrett) 74.5mm inducer 102mm exducer, that's the 1000hp version(garrett)<<the one I have. 76mm inducer, not sure of exducer that's the 1200hp version(custom) I am not familiar with the GT45 series, it wasn't around back when I bought this unit. The plan is to mill the existing dump pipe flange off, 5" is just a little to big to fit, lol. I agree also, this will work but wont really perform at low rpm or low boost, sweet spot of the map is above what I will be able to run with the stock n/a engine.

Both options are too expensive for my budget.

The unit I have is the 74.5mm ind 102mm exd, unsure of the turbine wheel or any other specs, apart from the 1.15 large flange rear, 5" v band outlet, etc. The garret rating for my unit is 1000hp, it was originally purchased to go on a 5.8lt engine around the 650fwhp range. I think its too big on this 4.0, but I'm going to try it anyway. So does 3500rpm sound like a good stall speed? I am unsure, something like 3500 maybe 9.5" might work well, give it some form of driveability but easy enough to flash it higher, I have no experience with the BA engines so its hard for me to judge. Bell housing will be ordered tomorow but converter not until I have enough info. Thanks for the replies

New combo, not sure what rpm it will make +'ve manifold pressure or acheive full spool. Stock BA six cylinder engine. GT42-02R 76.4mm inducer, 1.15 TV(T6) rear, 4" dp. Short runner possibly smooth log style manifold. Running on LPG, intercooled. Just after some opinions from people that have experience with this, would like to have some more info prior to ordering the converter. The converters behaviour will vary depending upon how much power this makes, but I'm just after a rough guide as to when it might start making pressure, and when it may be fully spooled, Jeff from the converter shop said stuff like that usually wants 3500rpm stall, and I guess flash to 4500rpm or so. I know this may have been covered before, haven't got time to search atm.