NVT

Hey guys, My car is due for it's 100,000km major service at the end of the year so I'm trying to piece together a list of things that I'll get seen to when it's in for repairs. I'm having a strange issue when the car is first turned on. On occasion, I get a whirring/roaring water, (I know it sounds odd) sort of noise from the rear passenger side of the car which is worrying me. I'd say once in every 10 or so times that I start the car. I'm leaning towards something maybe being wrong with the fuel pump - Could it be a, 'priming' sort of noise? If the pump is on the way out, last thing I need is to give it stick and the engine explodes... Someone in the almost 10 years of FG/FGX's must have had a similar issue? (On a side note, does the 100,000km service call for coils or is that something everyone just does when they crap out? And I'm inclined to get a throttle body elbow replacement for the car - (300rwkw) Has anyone's stock elbow broken or split or is the need for a replacement a bit of BS?) Any advice would be great! Thanks guys!

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies so far! I've used a couple of pads but nothing too outrageous; Brembo standards, OEM pads, Bendix Ultimates, Bendix CT's, Ferodo DS I've read good things about the PMU, QFM and EBC sets so I thought I'd ask around. If the PMU pads are as good as they seem, maybe that's the way to go? JETURBO can you hit me up with some pricing for G6ET calipers? The rear pads are a standard Ferodo and have almost no dust or noise - May consider leaving them on and just changing the fronts... Thanks guys! Cheers,

Hey guys, About 25,000 kms ago, I upgraded the brakes on my g6et - I chose the standard upgrade combination; T3 fronts, T2 rears with Ferodo DS2500 pads. The upgrade has been great but I want to change the pads. While they have excellent absolute stopping power (and I emphasize excellent - saved me from an accident a couple of months ago), they are really noisy, unbelievablely dusty and they are rubbish when cold. Can anyone recommend a pad that's a little more streetable (but with excellent performance) with less squeaking and less dust? Rotors are fine so happy to pay for a nice set of pads Was considering EBCs or maybe the PMU's? Even the QFMs? I know there's no perfect pad.. Any advice or thoughts would be great! Cheers folks!

Thanks mate! I'll have it looked at next time its in for servicing. (Sorry about all the spelling mistakes. Damn autocorrect) Cheers

Hey Steve, She's done 79k at the moment. Always over serviced and looked incredibly well. Tune sheets show a tube at approx 50kms by XFT so I can't see that being the issue. I'm leaning towards plugs/coils but I've always been concerned with 300rwkw on a stock pump. (Even though I read the fgs are good for 320rwkw odd) Might have to have it checked next time is in for repairs. Is there any data thati can log with the xcal3 that would be odd any benefit? Cheers steve!

Hey Guys, I've got a 2008 G6ET tuned to 300rwkw (Injectors, plugs etc) I'm having a few drama's with the car at the moment and I need help figuring out if its to do with fuel delivery, the tune or the age old plug/coil replacement issues. The car started dropping revs when pulling up to a set or lights or when turning on (She also feels like she surges a little while creeping along approaching stationary traffic at low speeds). I've had this happen with my old BA XR6T as well. In the same way I fixed that, I checked all the clamps and hoses in the engine bay, put through an fuel system cleaner, fresh tank of 98 and cleaned out the throttle body. (Fuel filter was changed approx 15k kms ago) The car doesnt seem to drop the revs anymore, which is great, but under WOT and when the car first starts up, I'm having issues. when I first turn on the car, as the revs drop back down to idle, it almost bottoms out which is kind of unnerving. Under WOT shes definitely not as strong as she has been - Little rougher than usual and doesnt seem to pull cleanly. (Still pulls like a freight train but feels lethargic) Initial throttle response off the line is also a litle jumpy/suring at times - Not much but you can feel the car try to, 'catch up' with itself again. Any idea's how I can diagnose this? Thanks guys! Cheers,

When your pride and joy gets rear ended...

Hey Gang, I went back to another Super Cheap today and had them retest the battery and again, it came up as, 'normal' on the testing machine. It is most definitely on it's way out so I bit the bullet and bought another. The saving grace was that there was 30% off all batteries today so I got a really good price - Not quite free though... And even more awesomely, got rear ended on the way home so it's been a great day for the falcon... How much does it take to write one of these off these days? hahahaha (Can vouch for the T3/DS2500 brake upgrade combo. 9/10 - would use again) f*ckers... Cheers

Thanks Guys, Might be worth trying another store. From what I understand, (and have been told) they have a specific analysis tool for checking CCA's, charge, etc and if this device doesn't find a 'fault' with the battery, then you're sh*t out of luck... It's about 30 months into a 36 month warranty period - purchased April '14. Reckon it's worth pursuing? Or I'll just need a new one? Warranty deets posted below. Cheers,

Hey Guys, Went in to Super Cheap the other day, as the battery is still within it's, 'warranty period' (Which means f*ck all btw) The chap came out and tested the battery - Returned something like 420CCAs instead of the usual and had lower than standard voltage. Was told to take it home, check fluids, agitate and charge overnight with a smart charger. Long story short; I've topped up the fluid with demineralised water and have charged it as suggested. Low Voltage warning hasn't popped up again but the car is getting harder to start and runs noticeably worse - I guess it's just on the way out... (For those of you playing at home, battery warranties aren't worth the paper they're printed on. Cover only manufacturing faults and dropped cells only - nothing else. I think it's time for a new one ) Thanks for the advice fella's. Cheers,

Blake, Looks like you've already got an answer but I've also read that people use black nail polish on the bulb. Otherwise texta should work as suggested goods luck with the mods! They're a great car

Thanks gents! I'll have a look into it a little more Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and get a new battery... Cheers

Hey Guys, I'm having a couple of weird drama's with my G6ET as of late. Almost every morning I start the car and get an error message saying something along the lines of, 'Car Battery Low. Bluetooth Shutting Down" or an error saying, 'Bluetooth Disconnected. Please check phone." If I've been driving around during the day, I don't ever get Bluetooth error messages. The odd thing is that the alternator is charging to 14.4V when I checked it running at idle and low throttle. Car battery was about 13.5 on a morning before the car had been started which seems ok to me... (I did try the headlights on, car off trick to watched the battery lose voltage and it drop drop fairly fast - Say 0.1ish of a V ever couple of seconds, if not a little faster.) The other odd thing is that it's never hard to start - It never struggles or has a low crank... I'm just trying to discern whether it's the battery or the Bluetooth module or the alternator which I'm finding to be a little difficult. I really don't want to be stuck on the side of the road in summer... Anyone else had this drama? Should I be taking heed of the battery warning or is my Bluetooth Module shagged? (On a side topic, if I do need a new battery, Without buying an Odyssey or something crazy like that, what's the best battery to look at if I need one? What sort of CCA should I look for?) Thanks guys! Dan

^ This guy PM'ed man, Cheers