DennisRB30

How fast have XR6's gone with a standard wheeled turbo? And how fast have they gone with modified wheels? Please mention the use of nitrous. Thanks.

Yeah, I'm talking auto. So how many are running 10's now? Anyone have a rough idea? I would like to know how much power these cars have too.

How many 10 sec XR6T's are getting around now? And how much power is needed to dip into the 10's?

How did that happen? Seriously. Does everyone on this forum either keep the car dead stock until the warranty period is over or do they just not give a crap about the warranty?

I also ported my gate. The flapper is about twice the size. Even with 2 springs the gate is being forced open which is giving me about 500rpm extra lag, but I get a stable 0.55 bar boost curve. I need more spring pressure. Do the upgraded actuators have a larger diaphragms to allow the use of very heavy springs without massively increasing boost pressure. The springs worked great with the stock sized port.

Well my car was spiking from the DIY spring pressure of 10psi up to fuel cut pressure of 15psi with just a 3" and "super highflow cat" in the higher gears.

Are there ways of boosting the car up to decent power without ford knowing about it?

How strong is the 06 Territory T engine? Is it the same as a XR6 T of the same year? Does it have better rods than the original XR6T? How many RWKW is the bottom end good for?

Who gives a sh*t? Its a stainless spring and will probably be fine. If it goes soft it will be fail safe as boost will go down not up, then I can fit another $2 spring in 2 years time when it goes soft. It has lasted for over a month so far. I have also made a DIY adjustable arm. I cut the rod and threaded each end then drilled out the non threaded part of old bolt and put a tap through it. So now I can adjust preload too. There are no design issues due to lack of flexibility compared to the alternative of purchasing a one spring $120 actuator. FWIW I just found these springs lying around at work and whacked one on and went for a drive. Boost was stable at 10psi (before boost spiking which is not the springs fault but the wastegate since it done it without the spring). I went to zero effort of finding springs. I bet if someone went to the effort they could find a range of springs which could easily be swapped for what ever boost level you wanted. T

Next is the 15psi actuator when I clip another spring on. Or just fit stiffer one. ← ← This mod should be good for 10 second quarter miles! Buy your 10 second power spring now for $100 + postage and handling. For a limited time only I will be including a random screw to weld to your stock actuator arm for 1 penny!

is it sad that I read this stuff.. calculated the percentage difference in the port size.. then scrolled down and found this site... ...yes.. yes it is.. ← That calculator is awesome. I use it all the time.

Next is the 15psi actuator when I clip another spring on. Or just fit stiffer one.

Circumference! I missed that. What an odd way to describe the size increase. I guess if the guy doing the work says the new hole is only 1.9mm wider it sounds pretty pathetic that's still about a 15% increase in size though. Mine is like 65% bigger Its pretty much finished. http://www.math.com/students/calculators/s...rcle-solver.htm

Too easy.

Good work. I could have used this info a few weeks ago see here. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=30952 Looks like I saved $400 though

Finally some info on the proper port job! Thanks mate. Looks quite similar to what I done. They done a 36mm flap and I done a 38mm flap. My new port is 34mm not sure on theirs. I think mine would be a couple of mm bigger. It also appears they had to offset the hole. They made is small enough and offset the hole in such a way that they didn't need to machine a new seat like I did. That was the sort of info I wanted to save a lot of f*cking around making a new seat etc. Oh well, mine sure work even better since its a bit bigger.

Think about which direction the will flow through the turbo when it "flutters". Air flows from the exducer to the inducer (reverse direction). Now if the air was somehow damaging the blades, you would expect to see the damage on the exducer side, not the inducer. Think about it! Look at this pic. The air would hit the side edges around the wide part of the wheel. Not the straight edges of the intake part of the wheel. Something must come in from the front to damage the inducer side of the wheel. Edit, I didn't see your post before I posted Cubes. Yeah, it seems pretty damn obvious by the damage that something came in from the front. If it were even possible for reversion to damage the inducer without damaged the exducer first, the blades would have to bent over in the other direction!

You get around don't you Cubes? Anyhow the stock flapper falls straight through the new port. I got a bigger one made up. You can't really go too much bigger without upgrading it. I am get to connect it all up. The arm also needed mods as the new port is off centre to the old port.

Absolutely. Whatever caused the reduction in lag certainly wasn't the shorter gears. Too many other factors.

Its still all pulled apart. I'm half way through porting the wastegate. Should be going a few weeks. I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive from the US like my 550cc US spec supra injectors and cams.... Great thread BTW. I thought my 0.5 cover would be loosing me power so I wanted to change if for a 0.7 (everyone else uses 0.7 covers on 2JZ's). But I think I am on a winner now.

Unless you made a typo, that is the EXACT opposite of what will happen when you fit shorter gears. Taller gears load the engine up more, and allow more time for the turbo to spool up. This is easily to demonstrate in any turbo car. At what RPM can you make 15psi in 1st gear from a low RPM pull? And at what RPM can you make 15psi it 4th gear from a low RPM pull? You will reach any given boost level a LOT quicker in the higher gears. No question. Same thing happens when fitting shorter gears. You will need to rev the engine slightly higher in each gear to reach the same boost level as before. However you will have greater torque multiplication so it may actually accelerate faster overall anyway. This is why choosing the correct final drive for a turbo car is so important. Its quite common for smaller capacity engines with short gearing and large turbos to not even make any boost in first gear.

Seems as though its a bit of a secret to how big the gate needs to be ported. I ported mine for an 82% increase, but am yet to fit the flapper. Can anyone tell me if the 82% increase is big enough? I can go to 100% if I need to. So if the gurus don't want to give away their secreted can they please tell my if 82% increase is big enough?

Mine has a ported gate, but stock cover. I think I will leave the 0.5 cover going by the latest thread on 0.5 VS 0.7 front cover.

that's pretty much like the one I made.

Yeah there is enough pre load on the actuator. Adding more will make the creep worse.