Smoke them tyres

No Problem. Glad to help. That computer will have no issues at all....so long as the stick does it's job, all is well. Agree completely about their current team. Pity it hasn't been their own for years....no wonder the have been sad for so long.....they don't believe in their own. The main reason that I don't like them is that they say to play in the "spirit of the game" and then do every dodgy and underhand thing they can to scrape a win or deny any win by anyone. Such hypocrites. They are also somewhat ungracious winners when it does happen. If they win, so be it. I hope that our guys have the fire that is required to get it done.

Yep, they are a reasonably good brand. The features look ok also. Now that I am home with "the library" at my disposal, they did a review in the November issue which still may be around in newsagents. If you can't get it, here is a summary of what they reckon is best: 1.Hauppaugetv Ministick-HD $65 (doesn't come with a useless antenna, but that is no problem, just fit a decent one). This was their best pick for features/function/price mix. 2.Avermedia Avertv Twinstar USB $80 (impressive reception and an antenna that actually works) 3.Compro Videomate U2600F $125 (single tuner only but with FM radio and analogue capture for converting analogue to digital) 4.PCTV Nano Stick 73E $80 (compact and good software) If it has a remote that will work with Windows Media Center for Vista and 7, you can overlay that interface if you like, or use the interface it comes with. Some come with digital radio capability, but unless it comes with DAB+ spec, I wouldn't bother as the lower spec DAB is around the same quality as normal FM. Remotes and software interfaces will either make it great to use or "otherwise". A Google search with "review" in the search term would help here.......I'm not presuming anyone is a dummy here. I have my tuner in a PC with a PCI card, and that is plugged into the house antenna....but that is only good for PC's and if you are ok with opening up the case. It is also basically fixed to one computer, whereas the USB sticks are far more transportable, so long as you have the software installed on each computer you intend to use it in. A feature to enable is to have it "always on top" so that you can work away, change screens/programs etc and it will always be there to watch. One thing to be aware of is to not load up the system too much with lots of programs running in the background whilst recording....sometimes the computer won't keep up (processor?/ram?/graphics card?) and the recording on playback will have a frozen picture with continuing sound. Trial and error will let you know the limit in your case for that one. Hope all of that helps......let's hope our guys get their together. I hate losing to those snobs.

Yep...you just need to get the right one. Go and grab a copy of a very recent PC User issue at the library when they tested TV tuner cards/sticks.....or I can PM you about it. The one thing is not to use the supplied antenna as they are usually not that good in their gain. Get a decent one and use that. Digital is prone to sound cutout and pixelation freeze if the antenna output is weak, making it unwatchable. Twin tuners would be a required feature allowing watch and record (provided computer is up to the job). Around or under $100 ought to do the job.

Just swap it the other way round though....adding the rear bar increases understeer. At or past the limit, a stiff rear bar may then cause the car to go into snap oversteer once the rear grip limit is exceeded....compliance and controllability at the limit are then the issue. But as a rule, understeer will be how these cars will respond.

No, it should restore it to an equilibrium (mid) point that is somewhere around the "window" we want, but I think you are thinking of sway bars in the right way (IMO).

I don't know that they are any worse on ball joints than any other car....Falcons usually have pretty strong/suitably engineered suspensions. Usually it is the passenger side that suffers due to road camber, road edges etc. All original and replacement parts (ball joints, bearings, uni joints etc) come with minimal grease in them and this is most of the reason why the ball stud chops out prematurely......insufficient lubrication, the inability to exclude moisture and the lack of grease allowing the boot to fold on itself creating an early tear point to let dirt in.....accelerated wear is then inevitable. The best ones were in older cars that if well greased and maintained that way via a grease nipple, would almost last the life of the car. New cars no longer have them fitted. The manufacturers of the parts need to lift their game and fit more grease into the parts they make. I got myself a grease needle sometime ago from a local tool shop for about $7 and did all the ball/spherical joints in the car. Each one took at least 5-8 pumps of the grease gun....that's how empty they were at 30,000k's. The rear spherical joints that mate to the rear hubs were already showing signs of dryness. It did require some suspension dis-assembly, but I figure that this is less costly and trouble than having to replace parts down the track.

A stiffer or fitted rear bar in these cars will cause more weight transfer to the front in cornering, and overloading the available grip from the outside front tyre. Sway bars are about weight transfer....lateral AND diagonal.

A stiffer or fitted rear bar in these cars will cause more weight transfer to the front in cornering, and overloading the available grip from the outside front tyre. Sway bars are about weight transfer....lateral AND diagonal.

Correct....the car will understeer less because there is less weight transfer to the front when cornering. With the engine in the front, they have enough weight highly positioned there already. Lack of front camber and the fitment of a rear bar are the way that Ford has dialed understeer into these cars. Front springs that are probably 15-20% softer than they should be is also a contributing factor, although not as much. The rear spring rates are spot on IMO. The car will squat a bit more in the rear when cornering, but only a bit. Body roll is not adversely affected. The fact that the rear bar can be removed and body roll is still well within limits says something about the the positioning of weight impacting on the rear of these cars. Most of it is in the cradle, which is at a low C of G anyway. Low C of G = low roll couple. Cornering speeds, control at the limit and tyre life will all benefit.

There is heaps in the sticky's and in this section about what I and others think of the std bushes and what you need to replace. A wheel alignment is a STATIC ONLY SETTING. As Pat has said, the std doughnuts are hopeless with anything above moderate loads, or with age. The front control arm bushes should all be replaced with poly. That will solve your wear issues....easy. Static chassis settings will then mean something under load. More neg camber will help also. No design flaws, just sloppy bushes to make it quiet and have people believe that dead quiet is a quality thing for cars. The trade off is effective suspension control and alignment UNDER LOAD. The rear also has no design flaw. Remove the rear sway bar and fit poly bushes to the control blades. That is all for moderate use that needs to be done for the rear. At least Ford only fit these rubber bushes to the arms and solidly mount the rear cradle to the chassis. Expensive Daewoo fit them to both the arms and the cradle to chassis mount. They crack easily and then the car steers from the rear with them moving around. Now that is a concern, but they can be fixed with poly also. All manufacturers are at it with rubber mounts to control road noise/NVH.

Here is a picture of the UCA std bushes for a BA/BF: Might be quiet, but not good for accurate wheel/toe control under braking. Worn/soft ones will scrub out the inside of the tyres from toe out as load is applied to them.

FG: -suspension components are alloy, so less unsprung weight. Also has dedicated radius rod for fore/aft loads, not the combination loads that the AU/BA/BF's have -N/A engine= less weight on front -rack ratio I believe varies from low ratio on center to high ratio turned (this will sharpen up turn in) -big front bar as std to also sharpen up turn in response -slighty different upper control arm pivot point (about 1/2cm lower)....slightly less camber loss on suspension compression from cornering -probably different camber/caster/toe settings -they also have the rack mounted in front of the crossmember....seems to be the current go. This probably doesn't make much difference though Good turn in will make it "feel" sharper, but that is different to what maximum grip it can sustain in a corner....ie maximum sustainable mechanical grip. To get it to return the wheel to straight, you need MORE CASTER. I would get your BA/BF to a wheel alignment shop and maximise the camber on the front. This will be a good street match for the mods you have already done. I would also replace the upper control arm bushes with poly. The UCA bushes as std are both rubber....the rear is solid, but the front ones are voided/ribbed. I believe that these should be replaced when the lowers are done. A cheap and easy installation.....not even the damper has to be disturbed. A press is required though.

Any update?

The Process West one (or any UBP) won't increase the full boost level...that's the job of the wastegate to limit maximum boost. But it will help reduce the additional "load" the turbo has to generate to push airflow through to the engine. It may only be a 5-6psi maximum, but what does the turbo have to generate with all those std restrictions? Extra load on the turbo = more backpressure = slower response and less power. The boost level is only half the story. If you can get more airflow for the same boost level, it stands to reason that the engine will make more power with that increased airflow. I chose the PW one and have to say it is the biggest that can physically fit in there. Kev makes well engineered top notch stuff and this is the one I would buy again. The engine response was better and made slightly more full throttle power for the same boost. The PW one just plain works (and other good ones will also).

No minerals or salts....both can cause buildups or corrosion within the cooling system. Tap water is also fluoridated.

Reeks of poor personal standards. Obviously, poor spelling is no longer an embarrassment. Reverse evolution I guess Don't know how some of them can even write when they hold a pen like a torture instrument.

JIC or AN fittings seal on the flare, so thread tape would be useless on them anyway, particularly the threads.....fuel would just leak out around the sleeve under the nut. Fuel system contamination is far more likely than successful sealing once the turning action of tightening is done. Thread tape is only useful on the interference type fittings. Besides, these 37 degree fittings will seal far better than an NPT fitting..... JIC fitting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Spot on Hiddeous. If I were to use anything, I would use Loctite 567 on the flare faces....... Loctite ® 567â„¢ - Henkel and then give it some time so that it can "go off" before applying fuel pressure. or reface or replace the fittings. Leaking pressurised fuel and high temp underbonnet/undercar ignition sources are not to be taken lightly.

Get yourself one of these: from: http://www.mcas.com.au/_products.php?subcategory=37&line=6 They work brilliantly and save the bleeder screw threads and hex from the constant tightening/loosening. I bled all 4 brakes in mine in under an hour on my own. All you do for each brake is attach the bleeder with the outlet hose higher than the nipple and into a container, loosen the nipple and pump the brake pedal. The check valve in the tool will do the job of flow control for you. I would also recommend getting a proper thick wall brake nipple spanner as once rounded, they're .

Ethanol fuel mandate suspended * Anna Caldwell * From: The Courier-Mail * October 28, 2010 10:42AM PLANS to introduce a five per cent ethanol mandate across Queensland's fuel supply have been suspended. Treasurer Andrew Fraser said the decision had “not been taken lightly”. In 2006, the Beattie Government first proposed to apply the mandate, which was expected to come into force by December 31 this year. Mr Fraser said the proposals “merits and disbenefits (were) more finely-balanced than other policy proposals”. He said public benefit was considered to be “essentially neutral”. The mandate was to apply to retailers with 10 or more sites and had been heavily criticised by the State’s peak motoring body, boaties and the Queensland Historic Motoring Council. Mr Fraser told State Parliament the mandate had initially been proposed at a time when tax arrangements favoured domestic ethanol. But, he said, since that time many changes had been advanced and under current arrangements the initial tax benefits would be closed. Hmmmm, the disbenefits are more than the benefits....could have told 'em. Or is it just that they have none of our money left?

Well here we go again with govt's underestimating bonus schemes and not understanding the scheme's "unintended consequences"........ Popularity sees solar rebate scheme slashed - ABC News (Australian Broadcasting Corporation) Popularity sees solar rebate scheme slashed The solar scheme has been popular with home owners. (ABC Local: Tamara Binamat) * Video: Solar rebate scheme slashed (7pm TV News NSW) The New South Wales Government is slashing the tariff it pays under its solar bonus scheme. The scheme was introduced in January and pays 60 cents per kilowatt hour for all energy produced. It is meant to run for seven years. The Premier says more than 50,000 households have taken advantage of the scheme and are generating nearly 200 megawatts of power. Kristina Keneally says the cost of solar panels has halved and that has led to a greater than expected take up, which is putting pressure on electricity prices. To make the scheme more sustainable, the tariff for new applicants will be just 20 cents per kilowatt hour from midnight tonight. Ms Keneally says that will slash $2.5 billion out of the cost of electricity prices. "This is about reducing the burden of electricity prices on the household budget," she said. Greens MP John Kaye supports the move and acknowledges the need for the solar bonus scheme to be revamped. But he believes a tariff of 20 cents per kilowatt hour is too low and wants a 30 cent tariff. "That would be less that $7 per household per year," he said. Legislation has been introduced to effect the change. Ms Keneally says future tariff changes may occur through regulation. The Premier has also announced an inquiry to investigate ways of putting downward pressure on electricity prices. It will be conducted by the chair of the Australian Energy Market Operator, Tom Parry, and will look at options to reduce or defer electricity network charges. The 2nd last para is a cracker........."an inquiry to investigate ways of putting downward pressure on electricity prices". If those stupid plonkers hadn't profit stripped the generators, there may have been enough in the kitty for the upgrades we need. They just can't manage ANYTHING.

Try here: Fg Ute Axle Tramp - Ford XR6 Turbo.com - Page 2 Also see Pat's post on page 3. The search function is your friend.

Almost cheapest and the best........great products from Nulon.

I gather when Sidchrome says "fluted", they mean splined????? If so, they will do the business. The metal spec appears to be a chrome moly variant....an excellent choice. That price is what it should be and being available individually is also as it should be.

Another option may be to get some Torx stuff and go to work on it...... I'm not saying it's "engineeringly perfect", but thinking laterally, it uses the same splined method and may get you out of trouble. The hole would still need to be drilled, and the parts would be somewhat sacrificial. I would still try this before an Ezy out. The screwdriver type option would need some wrench flats on it to be effective, and if the broken bolt is deep in the hole, this may be the only option to reach it. Keep the parts square and don't let them wander from the bolt centreline. Don't use any more interference than necessary. The remainder of the bolt does not need to be expanded in the hole (thread drag). Good luck. I'll still pursue the above.