kevo

hey mate, I've just sussed out this sender recently with thread type etc, and TIG welded it to my new rapid systems cold side piping, I had it disconnected for a week or so while my machinist mate made me up the stuff to attach it by with new setup, all that happens is your boost gauge reads max boost. Its the boost gauge sender unit for your boost gauge. Its purely cosmetic really, unless you have an accurate gauge and you have to keep boost under a certain pressure but that shouldn't be the case. Easiest way to reconnect (assuming your getting a new coller setup) is to weld a nut/ threadded boss with 1/4" BSP thread to your piping and connect it up again, or beTTER yet get the guys who your buying your equipment off (cooler setup) to insert gauge thread beforehand! hope this helps mate!

HAHA that's HILARIOUS. they should kill themselves

so not worth all the f*cking about im guessing??

get the 8mm wrx irridium plugs now cos if you get a tune in 3 months you'll be throwing away the non irridium plugs in 3 months then, plus irridiums last for 100,000kms. diff oil is in the diff, I havent done it on falcon before but dump oil from lower plug, fill from plug half way up rear diff housing and its full once it starts dripping out of that fill hole. yer like davidald said, NEVER go ryco filters, I have SEEN the insides of a 10,000km old oil filter fall apart on the insides before on mates EF, so same goes for fuel filter also of course, good luck!

haha actually its the sh*ttest most boring job you can have on any site hey. hows 12 hours driving at 30km/h sound............. uh!

TORNADO HEYEEAH!!!!!!!! Mod that sh*t up dude, and enjoy trying to keep the tray going the same direction as the front of the car

who tuned this mate? BPT or XFT?

excellent, thanks for clearing that up RAP1D, that makes sense now cheers

http://www.maperformance.com/turbosmart-bo...controller.html Im curious to know wiether these actually work on our engines to control over boost. Im not trying to look for the cheapest way out as I am already going to get the ported housing and wastegate mod to control my overboost (currently hitting 18psi after 4000rpm), though these just look like such a simple option to dump excess pressure out of cold side intercooler piping to eliminate overboost. why arn't these common on our 4L turbos? or are they just crap? cheers guys KevO

hey guys, I have had my battery disconnected for the last week while I have been doing some work to my F6 ute, I went to connect the battery up today and check the ignition went on well, but no accessories or ignition lights on the dash come on and "CODE" comes up on the ICC display... what bloody code??? im stuck here and don't know what to do, the car is booked in for a tune on monday so I hope this isn't going to be a pain in the ass... any help is appriciated guys Kevo

yer was this thread ever finished with the answer or what. is it 1/4" BSP or what cos I have no gauge untill I fit this and its pissing me off real bad!

yer try to drill a 1" hole through the middle of it in the mean time so you don't have major over boost issues. I imagine you definately will if you remove it all together. I know of 'someone' boring a 1" hole through the middle of their APS catalytic converter this weekend before it gets tuned the following day, so I might be able to ask 'them' how it worked out

hey guys, I fitted a rapid systems cooler and piping kit to my ute today and all went well! Very happy with the cooler and piping!!!!! perfect fitment also! I was suprised at how easy it was to move the air con lines out of the way, given that it was talked up to be a pain in the ass - I managed to grab them with my hand and pull up so maybe I was just lucky! the only part of the install that had me confused was the sensor on the drivers side of the FPV intercooler. It looks like a pressure sensor with two wires coming off it. There is no where to fit these wires on the new cooler though.... ?? can I leave it unplugged or do I have to fit this up to something or what??? do all turbo's have this sensor on their cooler or is at an FPV thing?? I can't find any previous posts on this exact sensor - only issues with the other sensor that was bolted to the aluminium piping from factory but I have no dramas with that. I havent started it yet as it has no catalytic converter at the moment any help is much appriciated cheers, Kevo

why is that mate?

I was driving (trying to keep up while obiding all road rules) behind a black BA / BF Turbo sedan on mitchell freeway hading south round 11am today, Rego something like "XR6 1" Then I nearly had a heart attack when a s***t* AU nearly ran him off the road because they never checked thier blind spot!!!!!!!!!! IT WAS SERIOUSLY CLOSE TO HITTING THE TURBO!!!!!! good times anyway though

that is gold! I've always wanted to see that happen to the asshole drivers out there!! yer I think I saw your yellow ute heading down marmion today (sunday), I was heading the other way

yer this is true, I have been told by a reputable exhaust shop that my APS stainless steel cat can't deteriorate like a ceramic one can, but at the same time when dyno tuned I was told my cat (5 1/2") was the limiting factor, as I got very low numbers given the mods applied at the time, im guna take it off and get the exhaust shop to look at it for me - its thier job so they will be able to tell if its rooted or not

I have a unichip that you can have for free

that's the whole point that pisses me off, im not fitting it to an XR6 so I dont need the whole loom set up! just the $2 plastic button. Assholes! car is off warranty as of last week - its an October 05' F6 but ill still try if not ill just ebay one from someone for $300. Everyone that says why bother with the start button..............., its class. that's why they're only on FPV's. I think every FPV owner will agree with me on that one. thanks for your help guys and yer I spelt niZpro correctly this time haha

that's Bu**sH*T $280 for a bloody button, where the only bit broken is the size of a 5 cent piece. I never had sh*t like this break on the old kombi haha, oh wait, yer it caught on fire come to think of it

the other day I hoped in the ute and went to start it and the button you press was gone, it had broken at the bottom and the spring behind it poped it out onto the floormat. I know I can get this fixed but has anyone else had or even heard of this happening before? I have no idea how the hell this even happened, b*lls*it really for the elite level of vehicle from ford. Im real pissed off with this one.

I consistantly get 13.5L (or lower) per 100km. and I drive it hard everywhere while I am home!

yer im with you mate, everyone else in here seems to me to be freakin out and way overthinking this. Completely removing the cat is stupid because then it is clear that thee is no cat convertor in place is looked for on the spot, im all for gutting them hollow though. The guy complaining about breathing deadly fumes haha are you serious! that is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. sure the fumes arn't good but no car exhaust is! When your driving behind a pre 1976 mustang or GT or monaro or Falcon or what ever - do you freak out that your breathing in deadly fumes because they don't run cat convertors! im gutting mine because they crap themselves after a year or so given how many kilometers the vehicle has travelled, I run a 100% legal catless system on a V8 in my other car so its not the end of the world running one now on a new car, its just illegal on post 76' manufacturered vehicles. if I get stickered (highly doubt that), ill just fit the other cat convertor to pass inspection. too easy.

are you serious. you were in a civic and you were suprised a cobra got away from you? dude seriously shame

if you don't know what unichip is just read my signature below