RAPHOON

It's rollover noise. A no cost extra that comes with the manual 6 speed gearbox. Turn the stereo up.

Anything above 300RWKW will struggle for grip on the standard Dunlops. Don't be disapponted with the time when you do go. Look at the MPH the car is pulling at the end of the quarter. Also, it's starting to get fairly warm in SEQ. so the times will reflect this.

Only for softc0cks. The turbo is a much better car for going around corners (even in stock form). The additional weight (and the centre of gravity) of the V8 does have its effect on the front end on turn-in. Bang for buck on mods, is also a win for the turbo 6. With 10 to 15 gorillas you will have the car to a level where the power will come on strong, early in the rev range and have you smiling every time you drive it. If you have any doubts then do what I did when the BA's first came out. - Go to a dealer that has both an XR8 and an XR6T in stock (auto/manual - it doesn't matter) - Take both for a drive on the same set of corners (with a decent amount of speed/cornering force) If that is not enough to convince you the T is by far the better piece of kit under our arse, then you deserve the XR8.

If its your first time, you will be able to opt for a 4 point licence for 1 year. Like going back on our "P"'s. At least that's how it used to be.

The T5 gearbox is a timebomb in edited T's. As someone mentioned before, it's the torque that will kill it more than anything else. A standard clutch will help protect it as it will begin to slip with a power/turque increase. A softc0ck tune with boost and turque brought in gradually and further up the rev range will also assist. Anything aggressive down low will destroy it very quickly. My first T did not last long after the tune and clutch upgrade.

I have an 05 Typhoon with a full Xforce exhaust (including dump) with no issues.

Had mine replaced yesterday for the same reason. Be prepared to receive a new windscreen with it. The mirror is apparently a real b*itch to remove without breaking the glass.

They need a trip to a hooker. One taste of kitty will change their focus......

Have a friend in Brisbane with a new XR8 who has reported the same issue. Do the FG's have some kind of anti-siphoning device which may not be working correctly?

Excellent result without a tune. Did you happen to get a boost graph as well? Looks like the exhaust has some flow as well.

These this are are very different beast to drive in the rain when they've had a decent re-tune, particularly in the wet. They can swap ends on you very quickly under boost.

Right Price on Moss Street.... Thanks for the tip. Cheers

A very nice piece of kit Ivan. I didn't realise that you have been without a car sice selling the T. A long wait. I any case, the car looks fantastic and I'm glad to hear you are happy with it. Enjoy.

I'm in love............. The launch control sounds great in a stock T. Imagine with a unit with decent exhaust/boost off the line. WEAPON!

Gold or yellow?

How much did you pay for it? What size is the inlet?

Rather than guessing, take your car to a decent tuner who will be able to check for fault codes in the computer and diagnose the problem via data logging on the dyno.

After all the heartache to get the car to where it was, I'm truly sorryto see this happen. They main thing here is that you are OK and lived to fight another day. I hope it works out OK which ever way you decide to got. BTW, I still have that piece for your engine bay in my garage....

Good to see that you are still alive and well. We'll get you back into a T soon enough.

The car sounds the business with the kit as well.

The guys here will give you a good indication of what the best options are. To begin with, think of the engine like a pump. the better the flow in and out, the better the power output. Therefore, get as much air in as you can: - A decent Cold Air Intake (CAI) and a good panel filter - More boost via edit Add fuel to ensure you do not lean out as the air/fuel mixture needs to be within specific paramaters to produce good power AND not be detrimental to your engine. Thge standard injectors will soon run out of puff and require replacement with larger units. This should really be done as a part of the first round of mods. It will allow for more boost and, if you buy a decent set (like the Siemens), they will last well into stage 2 and 3 of your mod process. On the outflow side, a decent exhaust will be a worthwhile investment, HOWEVER, the biggest restriction is the standard cat. Replace this with a large bore, highflow unit will get you started. All of the above require the engine management system to be re-mapped, to command more boost, change timing and allow for the bigger injectors. Do more research, and choose your hardware and tuner wisely. Doing sso will get you close to 300RWKW (safely) with your $3k spend. Hope this helps

To put it simply. In our cars, it's that lumpy looking pice of metal right next to the engine on the passenger side.

The big cost in NOT waiting is tuning. Better off to wait until you collect a decent number of the hardware bits you wish to change, and installing and tuning all at once. This is particularly true when first starting out, as there are a number of fundamental chanes you need to make for reliable & safe power upgrades.

Sad news Ian. If you cut this man he'd bleed blue. Name the lucky town.

Standard injector will struggle top end with boost pressures at 10PSI or higher. Moreover, the car has been programmed to supply a certain amount of fuel, which is a match for the commanded boost pressure. Increasing the boost will no automatically increase the fuel and (unless your car is running VERY rich) you will lean out. I would strongly recommend NOT to play with the boost without adequate diagnostic equipment to review the effects of any changes.