new370

Thanks for help. PROBLEM SOLVED JUST NEEDED A SIMPLE RESET. Purring like a kitten ( well, a big cat) again as usual. THANKS for the ideas

Thanks ill try it in N. I'm thinking you mean N not P? (N not D) I'm happy to try anything. Because of the way it just failed one morning for no apparent reason, I'm thinking along the lines of this type of computer problem, like a reset or something.... I appreciate the suggestions

Thanks for the ideas. Yes I've tried restarting it and I've disconnected the battery and tried that.... I'm a bit stumped.

Drove the xr6t (modified) as usual last night and parked. When I went to start it this morning, she is running very rough and pushing the accelerator does nothing at all. Yellow engine light shaped like an engine outline is on. Really need to drive today I would really appreciate any advice if you have had similar. I did think last night there was a slight clicking noise from near plenum, but maybe was my imagination. Cheers

ok, thanks. ill do that tomorrow. appreciate your advice

thanks for replying... yes I am referring to the capa box. thanks for the info. what does last tune port mean? im also wondering if I connect the box will it indicate which tune it is currently set at so I at least know where it is before checking anything else? thanks aagain for replying

Hi all, I bought an xr6t which has been modified by Autotech in Sydney. It uses the early capa flash tuning module which I have with the car, however ive forgotten what the seller told me about changing the selection of tunes. I dont want to select a tune and do any damage (the car was set-up so that in the highest kw tune it requires 'martini' fuel. As I am only running 98 octane fuel I am cautious about changing the tune to the high output without correct fuel. Maybe this isnt anything to be concerned about but better safe than sorry. I am not sure how to select the tune or if selecting this high output tune inadvertantly would cause any problem, so I havent touched it. Any advice on selecting different tunes would be appreciated as I cant get in touch with the seller. Thanks

I got lots of help on the forums and hopefully this info may help someone else.

Ive had a great deal of trouble sorting out a problem with my ICC and stereo recently. Ive learnt a fair bit about falcons lately and ive read lots on the forums about CODE etc on the ICC. I have found out how to over-ride the CODE on ICC and thought I would share it on here as it may help someone down the track. Start the car or switch the ignition fully on. When you see the word CODE on the ICC screen, you can override this (temporarily) by holding down the FM and Menu buttons simultaneously and pressing the radio power button. Radio and cd functions should resume. This will turn the radio on for a while, perhaps until the ignition is switched off. This info may have been shared on here before, but if not, hope it helps someone.

Im replacing a 'relocated' battery in the drivers side guard. When it was put in, a NEW RIVER 45 battery was used. I think this is a sealed lead/acid type. Wondering if there is a specification or advice for the type of battery used in these applications?

I was planning to bring it to gold coast, I could come up there to bne pretty easily

And if it matters, the donor ICC is from an LPG XT, but I dont think this would matter?

Ive now searched around the forums here and elsewhere. they suggest turning ign off then on and leaving it on IGN for 40 seconds etc...tried all this, still sais CODE.. Ive reseated the ICC, nice and snug. Just wondering if the fact that this car has a CAPA flash box and tune etc would have any effect? also would anyone know if having ford reset the icc etc impact on the capa tune which is in there now? Thanks-Please write your suggestions while I still have some hair left!!!!!

is PATS the white box on top the rf locking receiver? I swapped the ICC from the donor car (a non-turbo lpg but pretty sure icc would be the same...). changed over the blue box at bottom and white box at the top so that the original modules are still in the car but the rest of the icc is from donor. yahooo! the AC fan now works and im pretty sure the problem is sorted HOWEVER I cant tell for sure because the word CODE is now on the screen. I had understood that swapping these 2 modules would negate the need for recoding from ford? any ideas? I looked in the proper repair workshop manual and it states the BEM is the box which stands vertically on top of the radio????? it said remove 4 screws to remove it, but could this be a misprint because this has lots of screws whereas the blue module at bottom has 4. im a bit confused?

so, does anyone know about swapping the icc? if the two modules are swapped as in previous post, would this be ok not to be reprogrammed by ford?

must have been passengers side as the drivers side is pretty hard work coz of the turbo I found the for 45 bucks plus postage.... if anyone needs them I will find the sellers details -actually,that was for the non turbo ute...is there a difference? im sure the same seller would have turbo ones if there is a difference. very fast postage and a good guy to buy from.

thanks, im in sydney riptide.... do u know about reconnecting it? I think I could prob join the other hose back on with a T connector. not sure if its a very important part

hard to believe but there's no smell at all. lucky coz it would make me sick too

thanks, do u think I could connct the broke hose with a t connector and block off the broken fitting?

on this pic you can see one hose connected . the broken hose was directly opposite this in tact hose

I broke one of the hose connectors on this. Not sure what it is and if perhaps I can connect the other hose by using a t piece? It is located on the passengers side of engine bay near the firewall and the ABS unit. It has what looks like double hose connector and in removing it we snapped one of the connectors. they are vacuum hoses I think, one seems to trace down underneath the inlet manifold.

NOTE: I thought I should mention for any future readers of this thread, that ive been warned about turning the ICC upside down (or even on a great angle). Take great care when removing this...if you drop it or invert it, apparently you need to throw it away because of the rollover sensor inside which will blow the electrics when re-installed (rollover safety feature). There is a sticker on the ICC from Ford, saying discard if dropped, but you dont notice that sticker until you have it removed and by then you may have turned it over. WARNING.

yep, I guess this is the true definition of a 'ratrod'!! ok here goes, out comes the speedo...this should be much easier than pulling the icc nothing chewed behind the icc though ok will do today, thnks have checked the wiring loom down the bottom where the 4 connectors are. all looks untouched. there are differing opinions on whether changing the icc will need to be reprogrammed by ford... if you think this will be ok by swapping the two modules ill give it a go. any others have experience with this? im trying to avoid having two icc's which dont work in the 2 cars thanks again have you heard some opinions on here that you can swap the two modules and then the icc should be swappable and therefore prove it working or not. thanks

the dash? or the icc? fault is that the radio and a/c controls are doing strange things. steering wheel controls function as in the volume and stations change and scan from the steering wheel but the display is all crazy. do u think there may be a dash problem? we removed the icc, and checked it out. there is nothing obvious, no evidence of the mouse anywhere on the icc..... opened the covers and looked inside the radio etc but no corrosion, wee etc. I guess my main question now is if anyone knows if I can swap another icc from our other car to prove if its the icc or other wiring? Not sure if this would be compatible without ford programming it? If that makes sense... ie if the exchanged icc wont work in a different car anyhow, then it wouldnt be able to prove our point. I also wouldnt want to have to get ford to program it then program both of them again when I swap them back... just not too sure about that, so it would be good if anyone can advise. Again, thanks for all the input.